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Nickfromwales

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  1. Nickfromwales
    That's a result right there. I'll see if I can grab one tomw morning and report back here. Tres bien x2 ? Thanks everyone for the input, much appreciated as always ?
  2. Nickfromwales
    Ok. As Chris Tarrant would say...."final answer" ?...... 22mm deck, sponged clean with a damp sponge. Primer as per Impey's instructions. Impey water guard membrane and strip / corners / butyl sealant as required. A good quality flexible tile adhesive. Tiles. Pub.
  3. Nickfromwales
    Sorry, the problem with me grafting whilst posting ? The membrane can be used to decouple, I forgot about that. I don't routinely use it as most bathrooms I do are way over the 5m2 standard kit. If your at 5m2 or less you can go straight onto the membrane. Sorry for the confusion ?
  4. Nickfromwales
    If it had a pipe connection I'd be fine, even a 2.5mm2 twin and earth going to it, but the electronics side does go beyond my station.
  5. Nickfromwales
    Tiling directly onto the deck is the biggest no-no in the history of tiling. The ply is used to bridge all the board joins and bind the floor, preventing lateral movement and the grout from failing. . Another option is to lay ditra mat ( the decoupling membrane ) and tile onto that. You'll only gain 4-5mm back though and it's not the easiest thing to lay. You have to get the adhesive like gum so the mat sticks to it and stays COMPLETELY stuck down and flat. I think I'd go 18mm OSB3 and 6mm ply to keep your threshold low. ?
  6. Nickfromwales
    Maplin have a 15kohm one ( cpc one in stock ).
  7. Nickfromwales
    You can easily go 22mm and 6mm if you want to shave another 3mm off. With what's been said, even 18mm osb and 6mm ply will suffice. What's the thickness of the flooring the room meets at the threshold?
  8. Nickfromwales
    Cant see the woods for the trees sometimes. Cracking idea as they're off the shelf at P.Ctr. ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    Maybe, yes. Just a thought. Maybe better to bond it for heatvteansfer, and use the pvc tape to hold it until the bond has cured ? How's that 12 ohms ( taken @18oC ambient ). I'd really like to just whack that in right now as it's stopping me plasterboarding. ?
  10. Nickfromwales
    Yes, Swansea.
  11. Nickfromwales
    Ok, admittedly don't use osb so can't vouch for how it 'feels', so thanks for the nudge. . I just don't like the way screws behave when driving them into osb so I've never considered it a contender for tiled floors as the screw purchase is of paramount importance afaic. Others have stated that builders have just laid the boards on glue, but how can they stop them lifting as the glue foams and cures ? The difference between 22mm and 18mm is immensely apparent when waking around a room with 600mm centres, so my advice is go for 22mm and sleep well. ? Edited to add : "Not lost a patient yet", but been to loads of others where I've had to rip it all out, beef up the floors and redo it all .
  12. Nickfromwales
    What about the thermistor that's in with my multimeter for the temp range? Can I nick that and use it just to save any delays? If I can that would be the jam in my jelly roll .
  13. Nickfromwales
    Really helpful. Cheers. So the film one, given its a 22mm SPEEDFIT pipe, could be literally wound on with a gallon of pvc tape. ?
  14. Nickfromwales
    All I can say is it's cheaper to buy thicker wood now than lift a floor later . It's not a place to economise imo, but I do go overboard TBH as it's my business on the line.
  15. Nickfromwales
    Oh, and the holes in the tray get covered by the Impey membrane supplied in the matching tanking kit.
  16. Nickfromwales
    Current job has existing 22mm P5. As it's got ( rather poorly fitted ) I-beams at 600mm centre I've decided to use 22mm P5 plus 9mm ply as the binder. Pic of former sat on the floor so I could mark the plywood support sections to cut out the linear waste footprint. Pic of the local support plywood. The 40x40mm battens were used to fit engineered, full depth noggins out of 18mm ply ( made by me bespoke to suit ) as the original builders thought that noggins were unnecessary Pic of the PU glue which I smothered everything with prior to fitting a tray sized piece of 9mm ply down and screwing on 100mm centres. Then the tray went down with Sikaflex EBT and screwed through the pre marked fixing locations on the tray. Zoom in and you'll see the circles where you drill through the grp to create screw holes. A pic of the tray 9mm proud of the new P5 floor, which will be ply'd next to create a flush floor. The screws hold the tray down whilst the SFlex goes off, then one at a time I'll remove each screw, countersink it, pump the hole full of SFlex and send the screw back in snug, not too tight.
  17. Nickfromwales
    Only if the joists are at 400mm centres . If they're 600mm centres then you need 22mm deck min.
  18. Nickfromwales
    Oh, as I need to mount the thermistor like yesterday, can anyone tell me the specifics of the supplied thermistor so I can go grab one now from Napkin ( @Temp PMSL lol. ) aka Maplin ?
  19. Nickfromwales
    Thanks all. . For the price, you can't go wrong. Its a bit over complicated for what I need but if it's only set it up once and forget then happy days. Questions... @Onoff. The one you linked is the most simple and 'fit for purpose', just 3 times the price of the one @dpmiller linked. Does anyone know how these two items will respond to a power cut? My fear is the cheaper eBay one may need buttons pressing for it to go back into temp sensing 'mode' which will be a right pita. Anyone able to confirm / deny with either unit please? This will be in an enclosure in kick space in the walk in wardrobe, so not something I want the customer to have to do anything with ( ideally ). Cheers.
  20. Nickfromwales
    I think it would also have been inadequate ventilation and water leaking in, trickle charging the moisture content ? Modern tanking scenarios are not very dissimilar TBH just you wouldn't penetrate the barrier and you'd avoid wood.
  21. Nickfromwales
    Yup. Looks like a manufacturing defect. . Go get a new one ?
  22. Nickfromwales
    Stunning ??
  23. Nickfromwales
    Near passive standards then .
  24. Nickfromwales
    Ok. I tried a pipe stat on the 22mm hot water supply to the current bathroom job. Idea being it was a quick and basic means of detecting heat ( eg someone running the bath / shower / basin ) so that would bring on the large mirror demister pad. Crap hysteresis and pretty unreliable. Question.... How much additional electronics are involved to just make the cable off to a thermistor instead and have that operate a solid state relay / similar to control the demister ? Can I get a 230v thermistor to save going low voltage DC control and the associated electronics etc as this needs to be left behind for the customer and not rocket science to repair / maintain ? Thanks in advance.
  25. Nickfromwales
    Oi! I ask the stupid questions around here, OK ✊
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