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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    The divided sections in Onoffs pics are for dedicated spaces, for the slightly sunken bath and the shower wetroom corner . Laying the slab is indeed in one section in that pic and all slabs, unless huge and requiring expansion breaks, should be poured in one go wherever possible. Timber for the guide rails will work just fine as long as they're relatively straight lengths. You could screw the timbers ( say 7x2" if that's what you'll retain and reuse later for the rafters ) to the outside of the block work with the top of the timber proud by an inch or so. That'll allow you to get it all perfectly flat without worrying about hitting the top of the block work. Simply use another 7x2" as the tamping board with timber 'lugs' added each end to drop the 7x2 to the required depth for the slab. The added be benefit of this method is you can simply lift the tamping board off after laying and smooth out the corners / end with a trowel. Check your levels a good few times before stating the pour and you'll be fine. .
  2. Nickfromwales
    Just order some sheets of 18mm shuttering plywood and screw those on from inside. ? Affix some laminated signs saying "smile, your on camera. Nothing of value left on site" and that's about all you can do. If you leave the site secure then you put off the opportunists, but unless your on a 24/7 vigil the cctv will help little. .
  3. Nickfromwales
    Me and the better half have just polished off two oven baked, mustard topped, camemberts. Served piping hot with two rounds of inch thick farmhouse white bread for dipping in the hot goo inside. Breaking through the baked mustard crust is splendiferous, but second place compared to the profiteroles for desert. Stick a fork in me.....I'm done.
  4. Nickfromwales
    You can't put that in a tin !
  5. Nickfromwales
    FO and die, is it not? Proper cliff-hanger this is ?
  6. Nickfromwales
    Slightly older, but sadly not much wiser There's a lot to like about plug n play. These solutions can soon start to escalate so best to at least try the first possible ( and easier ) option first tbh .
  7. Nickfromwales
    You'll know for the next build
  8. Nickfromwales
    Tried the Valspar on my job alongside the Leyland and its Leyland for me sorry. Just no comparison for obliterating new plaster first coat. The rubbing off issues @jamiehamy mentioned are something that the Leyland suffers from, but this isn't a finish paint, it's more like a filler / base coat that you rub down after obliteration and then finish with a good quality finishing paint. The Leyland is fine for ceilings as the finish as they don't really get any contact after finishing the obliterating but the walls deffo can't be left with this as the final coat. I accept that as I use products accordingly for the purpose they're intended for. . Cheap quick white out with Leyland, super light rub-down and then on with something decent, usually the colour coat so you can't use bulk-buy stuff anyway ( as its usually white or magnolia only ).
  9. Nickfromwales
    Problem is....their 40% off is 20% higher than you should be paying . Stay out of the showrooms people ! The same tiles can be found elsewhere with a bit of ringing around .
  10. Nickfromwales
    What about these Eurbauer ones? Link
  11. Nickfromwales
    I fear women customers more than men so don't be all shy now . Just say what price you'd like to,pay and go for the haggle. Tell them a higher price is subject to seeing the quality of the laying ( so they don't just scoot through it to get the money back on the job ).
  12. Nickfromwales
    Send @ProDave round.....
  13. Nickfromwales
    Ok, in mitigation you didn't say they were of the 'older' generation. I do however still dislike people who will..... deciding how the landscape should appear for the decades after their demise, and the same for folk who still have a few miles left on the clock but great big noses. Green eyed monster syndrome for the majority. Whatever gave you that impression
  14. Nickfromwales
    £22 per m2 for laying ditra and tiles was very cheap ! I'm in Swansea and that would have been priced at no less than £35-40. Edit : £50 over 180m2 is too high unless it's London. That's a lot of area so a good bit of meat on the bone there . If they're good, chop them to £40 and see if they'll bite.
  15. Nickfromwales
    And how the conversation would have gone with me ........ "What are you putting on your roof?" "Oak shakes as explained on the planning application" "Well, I could forgive you if you were putting slates on like everyone else" "well guess what my love, your in luck today!" "why? Are you actually putting slates on instead of the oak shingles?" "no. Your in luck because I'm not asking for your forgiveness, now piss off before I gas nail a pork chop to you and release my hungry dogs. Have a nice day Y'all" ✌️️ Why develop a thick skin when your confronted by rude arseholes? A better saying than your line manager came up with is "if you've got nothing good to say, keep your trap shut" ? Word.
  16. Nickfromwales
    Ok. After 23 years of doing this, that's the first time I've heard that TBH. As your statement is quite specifically suggesting a primary / 'preferred' method of installation it's caught my attention. Can you provide a link to the legislation that you have referenced in order to arrive at that conclusion please as it would be beneficial to the many folk who read and reference this forum. One discipline we strive to observe here is the separation of opinion from legislation / regulatory requirement, as one is open for interpretation and the other is to be abided by ( howsoever achieved accordingly ). Maybe best to start a new thread on the main forum to keep the blog comments focussed on the blog . Could prove to be a good exchange. . Thanks. ?
  17. Nickfromwales
    That ship has sailed
  18. Nickfromwales
    Crikey! Pass our regards to your OH and wish him a slow recovery ( so he gets out of painting ). Great progress, and good to hear that you sorted the window reveals out as things like that do my nut in ! .
  19. Nickfromwales
    Sorry, but that's rubbish. . The only issue can come from having no air admittance on a vertical soil drop of 1300mm or more. That can put a vacuum defecit on the traps and suck them dry. In that case you simply fit an AAV ( anti vac ) basin trap or, in this case, do nothing as the soil will likely terminate into a vertical stack with a 110mm AAV or be vented to atmosphere. As Jason is building to higher spec, it'll be an AAV so the point is irrelevant. Best to ask first, than assume it's an issue . This install is actually far better than your proposal as feeding the basin into the larger bore pipe as soon as practicable is best practice without a doubt. I always find long, small bore waste pipes blocked to death and personally always upsize to at lest one increment, ( 1 1/2" for any long basin run ) on my installs as a minimum discipline. ? Oh......and we still haven't had an introduction @Ryan4Healthy Home Movement so scribble a few words out in the 'introduce yourself' section for us please ! .
  20. Nickfromwales
    A bit brittle for one, and you'll need to do a bonded join somewhere as they're ( the roof and the down'pipe' ) dissimilar materials.
  21. Nickfromwales
    If that's the chosen method then I'd form the letterbox outlet from grp ( formed with a with an off cut of that rectangular section ) rather than a round former. Looks like it'll work fine TBH. ? Edit : Don't use silicone on any of this stuff as it has a very short life . CT1 or Sikaflex ?
  22. Nickfromwales
    A couple of boys I know make their own kitchens. They do exactly that and the results are great. For contrast, the ( £250 retail ) 22mm tower decor ends that came from Wren are utter dog?. Even Howdens wrap the gloss all the way around, but no, not Wren For the money Wren is just zero value for money. The showroom is absolutely sensational, a work of art, but after you sign the cheque it's downhill all the way. 7 island decor ends arrived damaged, or the wrong colour. 5 weeks of failures to get a non damaged one. Twats. Rant ending in 3.....2......1.......done.
  23. Nickfromwales
    The entire Wren kitchen I've just fitted was all MDF doors and decor panels. They drilled a 6mm hole and fitted a nylon plug into it, and the screw went into that. I had to retro drill the integrated washing machine door and I just screwed into the MDF TBH. No drama there but ( with both MDF and chipboard ) don't over tighten .
  24. Nickfromwales
    Got to give you a warm feeling though. You looking to do it again commercially?
  25. Nickfromwales
    Sides ( plural ) ? You'd only need it to drain one side so why make extra work?
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