Nickfromwales

+1 I know a lot of boys who are GSR'd and do fires and cookers without the relvant tickets. This can't be done on your vanilla GSR and you have to either do your fires and cookers at the same time, or go back later and do it as a bolt-on. NOTE : Always ask to see your GSR'd fitters card. On the reverse is all the different types of equipment / classes of what their entitled / qualified to work on or install. .

NOPE. If you aren't up to speed with regs, equipment and it's installation criteria, YOU DONT TOUCH IT. Ignorance or lack of experience is nonsense. A GSR fitter will have to specifically and separately sit the LPG section of his / her qualifications so they'll have ZERO gap in their knowledge. That is renewed every 5 years so, sorry J, that's not a reason at all.

When I become the worlds most proficient plumber, I'll be too farked to pick up a spanner. Ah, well. ? Cheers !!

That's the joy of having time on your hands . For me, working on price, things get fitted once. That plywood was all in before soldering, so with the correct blow lamp and a burn mat there's no reason to risk property or roast the surrounding material. ( And, the whole arrangement can be removed with a screwdriver and a spanner, as just out of shot is the isolation / bypass arrangement for the softener, complete with compression fitting. ). @jamiehamy The arrangement is exactly how you described it. The only thing I'd change if I had that job again ( that was my fist true PH installation btw ) would be to feed the secondary TMV straight off the TS. The reason for that would be less dead water to get rid of before getting hot flow to the basin manifold ( furthest right ) plus it would convection pre-heat so would always stay warm / hot. The next one will be perfect. The one after that even better. And the one after that even more betterer. Continue above reasoning until death. ??

PS I'm happy about the ECV btw, just good practice would have seen a secondary ECV and a test nipple immediately afterwards. Theres gas fitters, and there's gas fitters.

@TerryE we crossed. Read my last

Ok, terry, I can see your frustration. BUT your fitters horse and cart are very much arse backwards. You cannot make a gas installation live and walk away with a list of essential items not done. End of chat. Saying that you'll need to fit chains at "some stage in the future" when you go for a completion cert is total and utter bollocks. HE MUST LEAVE THAT INSTALLATION SAFE, WITHOUT EXCEPTION. He has NOT done that. You cannot make a gas installation live and set it to work unless it's 100% complete, and 100% compliant. Fwiw, I think you should shut it off, disconnect the bottle and get matey boy back to do the chains. ( and no, it's not your job to do it after he facks off with your £100, it's HIS job to do on the day he commissions the gas burning appliance. He should have charged you the extra and done it. Simple. ) Regarding the test point. Is there one, or is there not? The whole point of a dedicated test nipple is that you COMPLETE the installation and can test WITHOUT further interruption to the supply or pipework. E.g. Testing, by removing the gas feed to get an open end to fit his manometer too, means he had to re-make that connection AFTER testing. That's wrong. You should test the full installation with all equipment and controls connected, and you should be able to do so WITHOUT having to reconnect a part / joint as how do you know that's sound? Yes, you can leak spray it, like you would the test nipple on a domestic meter, but that's on a fitting designed and accepted as an appropriate means to do so. This does stink of 5 minute hero TBH, but it's a fact that it shouldn't be on right now without the stability chains.

Daves right. I just saw this and scrolled back through to the pics. Not great. Internal plumbing seems fine, but outside is clearly below standard. As far as regs, the PROPER domestic valve would have the isolation. It would also have the right fitting to go to copper, thus negating the jubilee clip 'connection'. I don't even like to see that when using my BBQ ?. A stability chain around the neck / upper section of the bottle is a no-brainer, and as said, a requirement. Again, not great. Not sure who gets this bullet, but when the pipe comes out of the wall and turns sideways, it needs more than one clip to stop any stress getting to the soldered bend. Should any weight or accidental force be applied to the end of the copper pipe the single clip would form a pivot point and transmit the force to the bend.

What's the big hoo-ha about then? So what if someone boosts their utter dogshit signal so they can actually use their phone at home? I got fed up and rang EE to tell them I was leaving to go to vadaphone, due to not being able to maintain a conversation in my house. They told me they would do me a 'one-off favour' and supply me with a 3G booster that plugs into my wifi, plus I could also turn on wifi calling on my phone ( but not the wife's as she had, at the time, a 2nd hand phone which they wouldn't entertain ) and I was super lucky and privileged because they usually charge £100 for them. I said that the £100 was irrelevant as if they asked me for £100, so I could use my phones at home, they could stick their contracts up their arse. A day later a little gadget arrived, plugged it in and never looked back. 4-5 bars of 3G throughout the house 24/7 now.

Only gripe I had with flexi MDF was getting a fixing in it as screws just blast through it and you get very little purchase. I ended up using my air stapler in the end but it was a curved bath for a display in a bathroom showroom so didn't really have to 'work'. I wouldn't use 'bendy' MDF in a customers house TBH.

Did this to get a BFO extractor in below pozi-joists. 9mm PB wetted both sides 5 mins before fitting. Internal radius done in 4 pieces. This was in the ensuite upstairs. Formed with 4x2" and double boarded with 4mm ply. I soaked the ply ( dripping wet ) for a couple of hours and then rolled the 2 sheets up then ratchet strapped them overnight to dry. Straps came off and they retained about 50% of the curve so happy days. The PB was special order 6mm and that was wetted both sides and left to stand up against the wall, getting further wetted by brush where I wanted the radius, throughout the day. Just wet it and push against it, leave for an hour and repeat. The weight of the board pushes down and helps. Prop the top of the PB with a dead man ( timber T piece ) so it can't fall over . Easier to do than most think. ?

why the tile file was invented. Porcelain is a right pita though.

If your gap around the flush plate 'sleeve' is 4-5mm or more, the cuts may well be on show. . I got caught out on the first one I did and had to pull the tiles off and re-cut them. Hadn't grouted them thank feck. Cut them neat, and tight ??

Does that mean @PeterW's better off joining the RAC for maintenance on his gates?

Now does it make sense?

Roberts your mothers brother ? ?

Nice. . Thats one of the few pans I've seen with a fully open bottom underside. A previous Duravit one I fitted had long 19mm drive bolts that came down at right angle to horizontal, finishing just out of view at the bottom of the pan. They tightened upwards into angled slots cut into the thick metal torpedos that wound onto the metal studs ( threaded bars which screw into the frame and get left sticking out prior to offering the pan on ). The torpedos had an elongated angled slot cut into them, so as you tightened the bolt they forced themselves upwards and into the slot. As the slot was angled and elongated the force of the bolt tightening turned into movement, pulling the bolt deeper into the slot, thus moving the pan closer to the wall / frame until tight. If you used all the slot and didn't get a snug fit you simply took the pan back off and turned the torpedo onto the threaded bars another one or two turns and retried. An excellent design IMO, far better than the side fixed types which use a big Allen key, plus, no horrible holes to fit equally ill-fitting and horrible cover caps into. @Onoff, do your bolts simply pass through the pan and then you have nylon washes ( to separate porcelain from metal ), metal washers ( to stop the metal nuts turning and chewing through the nylon ones ), and BFO nuts which get tightened directly? If so, that ratchet spanner must have a very good ratchet with a small degree of movement ! Don't forget to wrap some cardboard around the spanner, to stop it chipping the pan if it slips .

Pie? Where? ?

This is @Tennentslager's BBQ. If he says it's good sport then I say let it roll. Too dark for a photo of #shed1, so I'll update tomorrow. #shed2 aka the man-shed is WiP ?. "Keep the faith Nick, keep the faith", ( utters to himself sadly ? ).

Son of a .........

Probably best to highlight the fact that you do, indeed, have multiple accumulators in this scenario, ( to compliment / tame your borehole water supply ), so that anyone reading this can gauge their response / thoughts about whether one would be necessary for eg a property 'suffering' from possible constraints associated with having a basic domestic cold mains supply which is supplying said house ( with a softener ). Surveying for an accumulator requires static and dynamic pressure readings at various times of the day, eg when the network is under strain vs when it's relaxed, in order to ascertain if such a medium is required or not. Adding together the combined resistances of the connected equipment, after the stopcock, is where this discussion gains its merit as most won't give this the thought that it's due when considering a system. Worse than that, they may well simply take advice from their chosen plumbing contractor who, for the lack of knowing differently, may just carry on as they did with the last job, not paying sufficient attention / consideration to the current remit. An entire subject of its own IMO, and well worth the effort and input of this exchange. .

As I live in ( sunny ? ) Wales, ill admit to having fitted only one or two water softeners. In the most recent install I fitted a 300 litre accumulator, post softener, so I can't document or comment on the individual performance of the softener ( as a stand alone item ) I'm afraid. However. This does form a good exchange, adding another important consideration for 'ye' of hard water' when designing the DCW system, ( the system which also will end up providing the energy required to propel your DHW out of the outlets ), as losses from such resistances created by such additional / peripheral equipment may easily be overlooked when deciding whether an accumulator is required or not.

That's the norm. All the ones I've bought ( even from different suppliers / makes ) have all come 'uk ready'.

@Onoff I'll pm you my postcode and you will get my terms ?

Forget the bedrooms, get a 65" 4K TV, 3 rows of seats and a pool table. . Oh, and a beer fridge. ?? Great work by the chippys, nice roof.