Nickfromwales

That would need sufficient pressure at the upstand. Any chance of getting a reading? Late evening is best when the local network is under less demand. If one person has teed off the upstand, does anyone actually care as long as it's not getting abused? If they were watering the garden all day then that's one thing, but an occasional hand wash or 5 min shower isn't going to have anyone in tears is it? How many people share the upstand?

What's the crack with the upstand? Is it just a communal,'outside tap' ?

After the CU it simply becomes 'fixed equipment'. Ideally it should have local DP isolation ( 20a DP switch to the side ) for disconnection. Edit : Maybe an din mounted 80a isolator would tick that box?

What water system / plumbing do you have so far? You've got a wash hand basin and kitchen sink, they plumbed in already? Do you have attic / high up space for a coffin tank ( storage tank with fitted lid etc ). ?

Say what? You been licking great crested newts again ? ?

Time to start a thread in one of the relevant topics folks .

Best to mention that for PH levels you certainly want as low a wattage per m2 as possible. 100w is acceptable, 50w would probably suffice TBH, but I'm not sure of the availability at that power rating for the various applications. @Barney12 There are foil type ( nearly completely flat ) versions for under carpet fitting Click on the 'Description' tab here

I've slept a lot since then . Looks a good wire, and that's where the consideration must be as that's buried under your expensive tiles. The controllers are all generic so don't matter a jot TBH. Still, I'd heartily recommend going for the intuitive / smart Warmup stat as it is self-learning so will switch on / off according to warm up and cool off delays / overruns so will save you on energy bills.

Pretty much sums up Build hub quite nicely. . Welcome aboard.

Cheers. Just wondering if you'd get revenue from export after your own consumption if you weren't fitting via MCS.

@Bitpipe, for one, went down this route with good results. Fitting a full wet system for a tiny bit of focussed heat is a bit OTT, so I'd seriously consider whether you actually need to go the whole hog or not. As said elsewhere, electric is far more 'on and off-able' so can just be used literally with the rooms occupancy as they're pretty much instant heat / comfort. Turn on 30 mins before occupancy and turn off 15mins before you vacate as it'll take a while to cool off again so pointless 'over heating' it .

Im sure I've asked elsewhere, but can you export to the grid if you DIY?

Remember the manifold should be upstairs as the highest point so you can release trapped / accumulated air / gas at the bottle vents on the manifold rails.

You don't need to have pozi joists to fit UFH Just fit aluminium spreader plates and notch the top of each joist accordingly. If you don't want to notch out the full 16mm, just notch 6mm of the joist and fix 12mm ply atop the joists. Bingo.

Tell them your going to pour petrol all over it and set it alight. When they say "how will that affect us, sir?", you simply reply.... "directly you twats, cos it'll be in your showroom when I do it". ? Edward Woodward.

An inside job ?

What's the MININUM loading of the dimmer? You may need to add some resistance to the load to control it properly.

Any links for cheap internal fire doors anyone? 27" and 30" Preferably panelled or barn style, no pressure . ?

If you just foam or dab EPS onto the wall you'll be surprised at how well it adheres and how rigid it goes. Just done the attic pine end ( stone ) walls this way and it's rock solid. I then foamed / dabbed PB straight on top of the EPS and skimmed. Fixing anything to the wall is a pita but I overcame that with BFO concrete screws ( 43" tv on tight with no movement ). Dont underestimate just how well EPS bonds without mechanical fixing, but I dabbed the shit out of mine so next to no voids . Whack one on and see for yourself. These are all 30mm EPS PB's stuck with dab and foamed all around. They're going nowhere.

Bosch Quick change for me chaps. ? If I get a FOOKIT moment I just make a template out of ply and use that to centralise the bit. Oh, and I don't have a lathe ?.....( yet ) ?

@Barney12 @JIH @joe90 and others.....we give you..... Ta-daaaaaa ?

And if it's a continuous bead, then you almost certainly will stop convection airflow behind the insulation. That's what I'm doing to the insulated plasterboards I'm currently fitting on a refurbishment, continuous horizontal beads plus full beads at the sides, and head. Saves going mad at the foot where I can't see properly ( and want left clear to stave off damp bridging ( it's a basement )). Id stop the builder now and sit him down and directly address this with him letter by letter. I always find its best to offer an extra day's rate / whatever for any downtime this causes as if you add to the remit then they're entitled to be compensated accordingly imo.

What Ian said, Hi, and welcome to the forum. You'll soon get a bite I'm sure, just ask away in the relevant sections / topics and things will soon gain momentum. .

I'd go with whatever made me happy, and let everyone else adapt, or remain quiet whilst they disapprove. . Everyone will soon accept things as the norm, it's just fresh to you right now so the 'issue' seems bigger than it actually is. Stick a doorbell alongside it and call it a day .

More reason to leave it for now . Or bite the bullet and crack on with the UVC ASAP ( e.g. now )