Nickfromwales

The blue walls match the sky ?

@ProDave / @Steptoe What about putting a piece of soil pipe in that 300mm section to allow room for convection air flow? Could you have mitigated the 6mm cable by ducting through the insulation?

Thanks for the very informative post . Personally I feel that most would put those small losses down to eventuality, and accept that there will be some drop in performance but not enough to re-write the books. I certainly don't see anyone rushing to do a ring in 4mm2 cable but I do always run a 10mm2 for every instance that requires only a 6mm2 as the sliding scale of performance is most significant with higher loads. The savings stated may have to be toned down slightly to allow for additional labour / time for working with ( terminating ) larger cables, fitting deeper boxes etc so I really think this should be considered as 'case-specific'. I maintain that it's down to the commissioning agent to ascertain sizes / suitability of cable runs, so it is in fact a little strange that the question has been asked in the first place TBH, unless the op is wiring themselves and has already agreed to get a third party to sign off. In which case, again, they should have already designed, and specified all of this criteria from the outset. Lets wait for @lakelandfolk to rejoin for further input and clarity of the situation

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+1, which is why I've added the 'disclaimer' in my last.

Agreed. Plus you can allow for diversity ( unless that's already been factored in by the regs which I'm unsure of ). Again, ageeed. NOTE : Each install is unique. Let's remember to dispense advice accordingly, in a positive manner, and get the op to as good a resolve as possible. Cable sizing should only be summised under qualified supervision, IF you do not deem yourself competent to do so. We should also advise that for a 3rd party sign-off ( certificate ) said qualified person will need to witness the cable installation, from start to finish, in order to ascertain its compliance, and satisfy themselves that the type and size of cable used is completely fit for such purpose. @lakelandfolk, who will be signing-off the work?

Ok. Firstly I'd look at ventilating the crawl space with a blower / BFO fan. Next, go outside and remove the manhole cover to ventilate the foul network so any accumulated gasses can dissipate. Then I'd get a 4" angle grinder ( gloves goggles etc blah blah blah ) with a thin slitting disc and cut out a slot in the middle of the piece you've marked out for removal, say 150-200mm high and as far around the stack as you can safely get. Before finishing the cut, gaffa tape / secure the off-cut so it cannot fall down the inside of the pipe Once removed, then you can start to remove smaller sections of the remaining piece of cast, piece by piece, as you can now feed the grinder deeper into the pipe with the space you've gained by cutting out the first section. Roll up a couple of rubble sacks and shove them down the cast to act as a debris plug. Complete the bottom cut by angling the grinder down slightly, taking care as you complete the cut as the grinder may bite if any downward force / weight is free to move downwards. Once happy that the cast won't drop any further, angle the grinder upwards and complete the top cut. Mark out the actual size of the section you need to remove and repeat the above until your done. Bingo bango. Edited to add : don't go for the full cut first time as you may damage the pipe during the initial cut . Always cut out a section first to see if the upper section of pipe is secure and then proceed to the final cut accordingly. Oh, and good luck. ?

Daves BCO acted accordingly for a property which would not, otherwise, have had a vent to atmosphere. By offering an alternative route to atmosphere he would have got off the hook, pretty much as he says above . For the record, the vent does not have to assist / aid the rising pipe work in the property, it only has to vent the accumulative gasses / stench to atmosphere and can do this at pretty much any junction / location, as long as it's connected to the main foul network with an appropriately sized pipe. For eg, on the far right of your property you have a pine end, so you'd be able to rise up that to the highest point ( centre ) and terminate there, and you'd also be able to use the smaller size 3" pipe ( as its not taking any water / other ). Edited to add : with the above proposal you can then fit the AAV's accordingly where required, so you'll still need to accommodate the pipework internally and be able to access the AAV for inspection / replacement.

Only prob is at 330mm you'll have no real length to get a decent saw stroke going. Cast is a b'stard, has anyone here ever had to cut one / has cut one? I have, and it's a pig of a job.

Put a 3" vent on the rear facade and have no penetration through the roof whatsoever? How far along are your groundworks, and are you mains sewerage or treatment?

Ok. What's the 'headroom' under there, aka operator space?

I thought you'd never ask

Ever tried it? . It's a nightmare to cut, even with a grinder. Let me finish this, grab some Piri Piri for the thick cut pork loins, and we'll have a go. ?

28mm copper will be as good as it gets, for a domestic property. Can I assume you've read here and on EB about taking the outside tap off either outside as a tee off the 32mm mains incomer, or immediately after the stopcock eg before the PRedV? Fwiw, if you can pull 32mm mdpe all the way in, in one shot, then I'd 100% go for it. Cheap and quick. I do flats that way. One common riser for gas and water and mdpe all the way into each of the flats. Saves a good few £'s, less joints and less noise. .

Been avoiding this Ill have a crack later ?( backshift just arrived to bail me out )

This or one of these and reduce to 22mm from 28mm through this with one of these in the outlet instead of the 28mm olive.

Angle grinder ( 4" ) with a stone grinding disc will take care of the chamfer . The chamfer only needs to be slight, and with a bit of silicone spray the lot will slip together no problem.

Tbh, if you ask the dno they'll change them. They should change them regardless tbph, as they'll not be to the new standard, so if you ask ( with tea and biscuits in hand ) they will usually do them free. Just had 3 separate supplies and Western Power guys were excellent.

@jamiehamy Didn't you have solid ceiling structure so 'had' to do walls first?

Good lad lol.

£200 are you nuts ?!?. Buy a level and a padsaw for change of £30 . Right. Describe properly what your dealing with. What do you mean no where near waterproof. ? Steel will eventually rust I assure you, especially where you cut the ends I think your heading in the wrong direction here, so let's discuss first ?

Fwiw, I'd 100% recommend ceilings first. 1) cables 2) plumbing 3) foam gap filling 4) ceilings 5) perimeter track on floor and ceiling plumb and square ( a laser is your friend ) 6) insulate if / where required and board walls putting either full osb sheets as cladding or pattresses where rads etc are going. Are you going metal as your not A1 with woodwork?

You can 'in-lay' the osb so it doesn't make the room smaller if that's an issue, say for hallways / landings etc, but other than that I'd heartily recommend cladding the metal stuff as I'm not a fan ( due to it being a bit flimsy compared to timber imo ). Have you fitted it before? Do you know to put struts ( sections of metal strut between stud and existing solid wall ) in at 1/3rd up and 2/3rds up to remove the 'twang' ? .

A sparky will swap those out in a wink of an eye. . Just have them to hand when fitting the CU.