Nickfromwales

Bigger combi = more DHW output. I fit Vaillant 937's ( now 938 erp ) when the remit is lots of hot water but nowhere to put a cylinder, or simply fitting an uvc is wasteful / overkill. The 938 ( 38kw ) is a heatstore combi which blends a small amount of stored water into the DHW output side to reinforce its DHW delivery. These are really good if you don't want / actually need a cylinder, and will still modulate down to 9kw when your heating demand is low. As prodave says above, the DHW coming out is only as good as the cold mains pushing it out of your outlets, so a survey is critical before actually deciding on an end solution.

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@MAB Sorry, I missed this somehow. If using tile adhesive, you need to be very sure there are no contaminants from manufacture on the underside. I've had a few which have some slimy stuff ( a mould release agent of sorts I suspect ) and nothing will stick to that. I'd use Sikaflex between the tray and the backerboard, applied whilst bedding the tray into the tile adhesive. Use that to create the fundamental seal between the tray and wall, and then tool the displaced sealant onto the BB to create an upstand seal ( have you read my comments in the tanking / wetroom thread )?

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Do you have a link for those lamps J ? I want to convert my outside lights and can't be bothered right now to change the entire fitting to led ones. Fed up with the halogen ones blowing all the time.

Sam Fosket is the guy I speak to regarding design / procurement etc, after a brief chat with the tech guys or Rodger ( the MD iirc ) for any fine-tuning. Excellent service and really happy so far with both product and price. A word of warning, DO NOT sign for the cylinder unless you have physically unwrapped and FULLY inspected it. Once you sign for it you own it, and they don't make exceptions to that rule. .

That's not exactly the benchmark for deciding on what's best for your house . Each install is reasonably unique to the occupants and DHW use, so there is no one-size-fits-all solution afaic, unless it's an guesstimate-sized solution unsympathetic to the actual needs of the property.

Chelmer = ??? Telford = ??? Telford most certainly do TS's, I've bought loads from them, mostly bespoke too

Have you selected a boiler ? You need to know how low it'll modulate eg to best match your low heating demand. For max efficiency it's either a TS, or a buffer and uvc but the latter needs room for the additional tank. Is your plumber 'up' on best dealing with the low energy requirements you have ? DHW is an aside, and much easier to spec.

@CC45 What's your occupancy pattern and typical DHW needs?

If your on oil it's a no-brainer...a TS would be best.

Are we talking liquid screed? 40mm screed with 10 off = 30mm left = not good. Should be 3-5mm off max?

Whack a 230v plug on, change the bulb and your good to go. If anyone else is ever to be around these then l would label the light to say 230v with a small sticker.

I remove that course of bricks on my jobs. I then just add another 25mm of edge insulation and run the floor insulation and screed right in. You may have to rebate the underside of the insulation to clear an step that removing the bricks creates, but the most important thing to observe here is NOT having offcuts of insulation here. This really needs to be one solid piece and then your guaranteed not to get any cracking issues where you bridge the cavity. Ensure that the vertical DPM detail is fully intact and your good to go.

Then you'll need accessible automatic air vents at each high point .

Happy days. Please update the thread as it'll be of interest I'm sure .

Get the tiles on

Ah, the rustic look . A tin of yacht varnish over that should make it look a $million and make it waterproof.

I tile to a 2mm grout line with the laser line and just have the laser lighting up the middle of the spacer. With ceramic I doubt that you'll be able to use plain spacers for every course from floor to ceiling without gaining / losing a bit. They're just not made to that good a tolerance so you'll end up using wedge spacers here and there anyhoo. Set the shortest piece of batten out and rest a tile on it, then put two spacers on it and another tile. Keep doing that until you reach the datum line and see how much you've lost / gained ( two man job if it's a few courses ) and adjust the batten height accordingly. You want to set it out so the first course of tiles sit on spacers THEN the batten which will allow you some wiggle room for when you get two ( wet ) courses high. You run a straight edge ( 1200mm level / other ), across every 3 tiles wide as your going, and if there are any peaks / troughs you just change the base spacer out to a wedge, pushing it in / out to suit, ( to push them in you'll have to chop the narrow end off a bit as it'll hit the PB ). Set the laser to the top of the second course, after you've stuck ( wet ) the first two tiles ( stacked one one the other ) and that'll then become your actual working datum. Go around the room those two courses high and allow them to set, first making double sure the gaps and top edge are perfect. Then you can lose the laser until you've gone another 2 courses high, at which point you reinstate the laser and go around the last row of spacers again changing out for wedges if / wherever necessary. Don't tile more than 3 courses high without checking / rectifying with the laser and wedges, but don't do it every course as that's just pointless. The laser is a guide but the straight edge is your friend, instantly ( and quickly ) pointing out any undulations. Note : "wet" means tile stuck on but the adhesive not yet set, so the tile can be adjusted.

Maybe a lightly frosted one ? Sounds like a good idea to get some natural light, if there's enough available to make it worthwhile? Nice pic of some random wood and a bowl btw ?

Were ready when you are ? Its down to how confident you are that your plans will come to fruition, but building the shed first as storage and makeshift 'accommodation' / site office will be a good idea. If your site is even slightly remote I'd not fit the final windows, just the front garage door, and simply frame and double up on OSB ( screwed on from the inside ) for any other openings. Shell out on a good quality roller shutter and you'll then have some decent ( secure ) site storage, and add some security lighting and CCTV for good measure. You may have already said this, bit is there water and electricity there yet?

I read about how quickly nuclear radiation dissipates, so I'm sure we'll be fine if / when the two dodgiest haircuts in history 'have it out'.

Don't be disheartened. There's still world peace and perpetual motion to crack .

Unless you've got or intend to fit oversized rads then I'd stick with oil tbh. Ufh is a low temp system that's far better suited to an ashp's output, whilst still achieving a reasonable CoP.