Nickfromwales

It's got to be a bad joint made terribly to leak tbh. These things are idiot proof very reliable and are buried underground just about everywhere without issue.

The likelihood of the TRV's all being closed automatically is pretty much zilch. I would just put the hallway / lobby rad on bypass and fit TRV's everywhere else. Unless you go around and physically shut them all off to the zero position the issue won't arise, so basically if you can discipline yourself to not turn every radiator in the house off and then go and turn the heating on you'll be absolutely fine. .

@PeterW If it's just the drills dead then you still have the batteries and chargers so why not just buy another naked drill ? ?

Not quite . If you have B&B flooring then you CANNOT drill blindly down through a finished floor and into a beam as you'll knacker it completely if you hit the rebar. ? More reaon not to do it later and get them in first. ?

The trap shown fitted is a shallow bath trap to 40mm pipe . Oh, and the first is a nasty b&q cheapie so yes, ditch it.

Put the waste pipework in or ducts for it FIRST. .

Ok, but at the very least I'd fill that void with foam before levelling. Not just as a preventative measure to stop it bridging the wall / slab junction, but also to stop the levelled from escaping down the gap. Don't underestimate how bad that is for levelling, as literally bags worth can just pour down there whilst it's settling so 'pouring' money down there plus you won't have a level floor. .

Mask up, and hire a big air mover for forced ventilation. Yank the lot down and renew. Good opportunity to add spots if it's a kitchen.

Just love the way it says "harmful fibres" not asbestos fibres. . If it doesn't fully penetrate then the risk remains. 2 coats over PVA will sort just about anything. Get a plasterer that weighs more than 8 stone wet and has big arms. First coat bulks and fills, top coat levels and finishes.

Overboard the ceilings?

I guess so. Tbh the last lot i decorators caulked around so the gap got painted out.

Yes boss ! Just asking for boxes which get plastered in and the box fairy nudges them out of kilter.

Any with adjustable lugs?

Getting dry lining boxes to stay level during plastering is the issue. I'd go for fitting the metal boxes everywhere, using LE exp foam to retrospectively fix the awkward ones into place. You then have the benefit of the one adjustable toggle whereas the dry lining boxes have zero wiggle room for levelling.

Don't forget a good solid front door so your neighbour can't get in to beat you up when the planning dept make him knock half of his house down

What @Onoff said. These things are pennies so why even waste the time. If you can't turn the supply off just put some shorts and a T-shirt on and get in there. I changed an outside tap the other day with the mains stopcock nowhere to be found. I just reached around the corner of the building and started to loosen it out of the backplate. A few turns later the thing shoots across the back garden and it's like Niagra falls. I had the new tap PTFE'd ready to turn into the empty backplate but JESUS it was a battle. Have a swift pint and then get in there . A video of you changing it live would be priceless educational.

Let's have the pic lol.

With the added benefit that when they're tinting, the sun is hitting the pv array ?

?

@Onoff s pic here shows it best.

Negatory . The full frames have the cistern outlet moulded as a solid section of the cistern which faces forward. It's clipped to the metal frame and doesn't move a mm. The black soil bend is shown loose here, but gets locked into position by a horseshoe clip and doesn't budge. What you get left after boarding / tiling. The geberit supplied pan connector pushes into the larger hole, cut to length to suit, and likewise with the supplied flush pipe. Plenty of silicone grease on the ends and the pan slips onto them like a hand in a glove. Bingo.

In the previous text you won't get 250mm in unless its excavated more. The mix of insulation type is cheaper and still has a very good u value plus I always favour EPS against Mother Earth as it's will conform to the surface better. I also put the DPM above the first layer of EPS and under the pir so it's protected against puncturing. If you can get 250mm of EPS in then go for 150 EPS and 100 pir just for the better u value.

The EPS won't compress as it should be EPS 100 ( not 70 ), so my money is on the groundworks having not been prepared properly / fully. . If the ground is compacted with grade 3 stone, then topped with type one, whacked thoroughly as it's being layered, and then blinders with a sand layer it'll simply never compress to that degree, certainly not 20mm. Laying 150mm of wet concrete will also weigh a hell of a lot more and consume a lot more volume than the required 100mm. Many here have gone for 100mm reinforced slab without issue, plus pex-al-pex UFH is pretty solid stuff which my screeders regularly wheel full wheelbarrows of screed over and walk upon without issue. Striking the pipe of stepping on it where it is not supported by the rebar is of course a daft thing to do, so it's down to the care and diligence of the contractor to be careful, and down to you to be there to enforce this in what will be one of the most important parts of the build. Absolutely no need for 150mm of reinforced concrete afaic, so focus on the prep work and the rest will be relatively easy / straightforward.

More insulation, and put the reinforced slab as your finished floor with the UFH pipes attached to the mesh.? Do away with the screed and have a much more efficient floor to boot with the extra insulation . Go for 100mm of PIR, over 100mm of EPS and have the DPM under the PIR. Lay the EPS over your levelled and compacted type one and no need for loads of blinding with sand other than to fill any troughs in the type one after whacking

Is there a damp course under this floor? You may well have to apply a liquid DPM on top of this first as a mitigation measure. Dry line before levelling by all means, if it's your preffered route, but you mustn't leave the dab or boards in contact with the old floors or they'll likely wick moisture up and fail. Id apply a couple of coats of liquid DPM between the floor and wall junctions before dry lining in case any dab drops down behind the board and bridges the floor and wall. Likewise with the self-leveller. You don't want that running under the plasterboard and bridging the damp that way either as that would cause even more issues. On the new work this issue is minimal to zero, but on the existing / old / unknown it's imperative you don't overlook these preventative measures.