Nickfromwales

Yup lol. I wonder how much he'd had to drink before that pic was taken. ??

I'd say the mesh will suffice then. Saves you about £225.......or 10.74 kegs of mothers milk. Tres bien. ?

Looks spot on, and it doesn't have to be filled full each time so maybe 25kg at a time ?

That means they'll shut off and leave no flowing volume of water. Having all the rads on smart stats / own zones / or even just TRV's will do nothing to help the situation, TBH they'll actually make it worse. Think long and hard now, whilst you still have the opportunity to do so

Just checked and your boiler if it's a green star will modulate down to 7kw. Way over what you'll be consuming at tick-over. That means all through the heating season your boiler will be far from condensing and running at its least efficiency , plus short-cycling its arse off. Not a good design for a system you intend to own, and be paying the bills for, for the foreseeable. .

The very reason you'll need a buffer.

Your deffo going to need a buffer then. The boiler will modulate ( reduce heat output to the minimum ) but it'll short cycle like hell. That'll fatigue the boiler and seriously compromise it's longevity.

Look for one with a ball, not a tyre. Ask that Dyson fella to knock you one up, failing that ask @Onoff, but that may only be of any good if she lives to 102

That would reduce the add-mix price to £2.69 per M3, but then the squirrels will be nibbling at the screed whilst it goes off. If it's near passive / low heat, then I believe @JSHarris has stated that it's not required. I'd tend to add them if it was a retro fit and the slab was going to run a bit hotter, but your on 300mm of eps so unless the house has no roof you should be fine. .

What boiler is it? Make / model? If your connecting the one zone of Ufh to it, you'll need to keep it connected to the whole house radiator system so that acts as a buffer. Don't fit a 2-port valve to make the Ufh independent or the boiler will short cycle like crazy trying to keep the Ufh fed via the blending valve on the manifold, so basically the flow and return for the manifold gets teed in like as if it was another radiator. Don't forget if you haven't got a dedicated bypass radiator somewhere on the heating circuit, one that doesn't have valves you can close by hand eg no TRV at the very least, ( usually the one at the bottom of the stairs / lobby / hallway etc and servicing the house room thermostat ) then you'll also need an automatic bypass valve across flow and return where the Ufh tees in. A stated above you'll need to set the heating to come on a little sooner, well with 100mm of concrete, compo and slabs I'd say at least and hour, so if you don't already have TRV's on the upstairs radiators your going to benefit from having them, so when the heating becomes on an hour early the bedrooms at least don't overheat. If you want independent control for the Ufh you'll need a buffer tank between the boiler and the manifold If you have a combi, then it's likely you've had the copper hot tank removed from the airing cupboard ( ? ) If so, then that would be a good place to fit the buffer so the heat from it gets used to air the clothes ( unless the combi was fitted so you could do away with the airing cupboard ( ? ). Typical size for the buffer would be ~80-100 litres.

Cyanide is quicker. Maybe better TBH. Some time to 'sort them out' before they come round .

Digging out on Monday, and walking on the tested, dry slab on Friday. I'll buy the beers. That's good going mate !

It is quite robust, but I have recommended a horizontal stay bar. The customer has declined, and accepted responsibility but I have a feeling they'll end up fitting one. They refused to have a fan, insisting that through ventilating would be observed and a fan wasn't necessary ( and deemed clutter ). "He who pays the piper calls's the tune" If two people were "leaning on it" you'd be going for the dustpan and brush, but that would likely be the outcome even with the stay bar .

Impey linear 2 tray under there

Fitted the glass today. 1.5 x 10 x 1.5 receiver. Minimalist as it can get. Slid into the wall channel and lowered into a generous bead of CT1. Measured so it ended where the grout lines intersected. CT1 displaced ready for the wet wipes Wiped up and looking slick. The wall channel after the gaps were CT1'd and cleaned back with wipes. Side view of the channel after sealing. Bird is the word. ?

? Noise and slowing them down is a bonus. Theives are lazy and know the same prize is available elsewhere with less effort. When they see that lot they'll move on.

That's exactly what I'd do. BFO steel framed door that swings shut from the garage side and bolts and locks from inside the house, powder coated to make it look better. Lateral restraints through the block work / fabric of the house so it can't just be jemmy'd off. Then the nicer looking timber fore door that opens into the house, with a Chubb lock at each corner ( x4 ). Once they knacker themselves beating the shit out of that one, ( bearing in mind it'll be then resting against the metal door ) they'll be greeted by the metal door. For periods where the house is empty, have the cars backed against the rear wall as tight as you can get them and then drop in / down posts tight to the front bumpers, so even if they get the keys they can't go any further, but taking the keys with you or putting them in a safe is better. Those alarms must have been non-certified pieces of crap. The entry level basic alarms still have a battery backup in the external bell / siren box so even if the alarm panel is ripped from the wall the external unit should be wailing for at least the factory set 15 mins or so regardless. Having two external siren boxes is better, one in clear view and one out of immediate eyesight so they may target the main one but miss the other. And lights, lots of bright security lights. On Ebuild I posted about how I linked certain lighting circuits in the house to my alarm strobe output. That basically meant upon my alarm being activated / triggered, my downstairs kitchen and lobby lights came on, plus the outside lights ( 2x500w halogen lights up high ( under the soffit ) so nobody could tamper with them ) which lit the back yard up like a stadium. As we'd had individuals coming up the garden to reach the rear of the house I wanted an early deterrent so I bought the battery powered wireless PIR system and that worked very well. It basically imitated someone switching the porch 500w halogen light on if anyone got into the back garden which made anyone approaching that way think that the occupants were active / awake. I placed the transmitter in the rear quarter facing back towards the house so getting halfway up the garden would trigger it, but it would also come on as a comfort light for us if we went into the garden normally. The benefit of linking to the strobe output of the alarm is that after the alarm has sounded / been activated the strobe stays latched, even after the sounders silence themselves ( usually factory set to no more than 14-15 mins on a certified system by default ) until you physically return and fully reset the alarm. Even if the alarm is triggered whilst your asleep, you getting up in a daze and entering the code to silence the alarm whilst you investigate will not turn the lights off. That means you can immediately dart to the nearest window and see what is going on without having to go and switch any lights on to do so. I went with that option so swmbo could see out without having to leave the house, as I was away abroad a lot back in those days. I also linked a switch from the upstairs rear window that brought all 3 x 500w halogen lights on so the back could be lit up without any PIR or alarm activation, so we could simply view the rear / side of any suspicious noises were heard at night. Saw off at least two wannabe trespassers with that approach, as swmbo is a light sleeper. The second the lights came on they sprinted. The big piss-me-off was both of the two latter see-offs were both less than a month before Xmas, one like 3 days before. Bastards.

Trust is a huge thing for me. I have rejected many offers of 'labour' based on the fact I didn't know enough about the person I was going to be taking to a 3rd party ( customers ) home. If / when said customers moan about the job dragging on, I simply state " shall I just grab any goon from the pub or would you prefer I plod along on my own until someone I know and trust becomes available ?" They almost always see it my way and kinda respect the the decision, ( but I always treat others property equally or better than I treat my own, aka respect ). A bit different taking a stranger to your new build if your always in attendance and there's little of value ( or what there is of value is secured at the end of each day ) and I am a bit pessimistic when it comes to anything like this, so I guess the message is "beware" Also, he'll have his own transport and tools.

Yup . And a rod will follow it too. .

Just goes totally against the grain. Whenever you lay any type of waste pipework you need to look at it from a drain-rods point of view . Branches on the horizontal plain should be Y-branches with a 45 degree bend to rectify. That's a pic I posted elsewhere but if you flip that upside down, that's how I'd have done the same junction, with the waste falling into the 45 and then down instead of slamming into the vertical opposing wall of the equal tee. Tbh, I'd only ever do, and only ever have done the backdrop inside the chamber.

Better without the backdrop though. . Im with @PeterW, that example ( pic ) isn't great, you just don't bury an equal tee like that .

You've done well there. The re-bar should be off the deck but I'll let you off. Mix the concrete a little wetter to let it get right around the mesh and pipes, and don't forget the fibres to make the mix flexible . Luckily your on a forum populated with experts so NOBODY here would forget something like adding fibres to the mix

Bathroom or the mower?

A lot of granite boys will only cut the hob out after the tops are in due to the weakness it creates if it's a continuous piece. They just grabbed a grinder with a top quality CONTINUOUS RIM diamond blade and chopped the hole out in minutes. Having a second pair of hands is best to hold a hoover so you can keep the dust down. Cut towards the internal angle so the break off point isn't at an edge.