Jump to content

Nickfromwales

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    30995

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    329

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    +1 Leave the first pass go off overnight as it shrinks back a lot as it dries, when applied thickly.
  2. Nickfromwales
    Under no circumstances should you attempt to use this as a finish or caulk . Its horrendous post-cure and dried rock hard and brittle. I caulked a bedroom once with the solvent free grip fill / adhesive and it all dried like a prune, shrank back, split and left two jagged edges which needed scraping off and redoing. Total mess and really hard work. Also, do not use it on anything new non-porous as it'll stay uncured / wet for weeks. Choose once, fit easy, last long.
  3. Nickfromwales
    Hi and welcome mark . Its ALL about the plumbing TBH, the rest will simply fall in behind it Ill be visiting the S&BiL over Xmas ( Broomfield ) so do you think you'll be ready for 1st fix by then ? Congrsts on winning the fight, now for the nice bit......Enjoy!
  4. Nickfromwales
    Happy days. Keeping the bit wet just makes such a difference. If drilling dry I found the high speed killed the bit a lot sooner, but as I was in a finished, grouted and sealed bathroom I had to drill dry with the hoover. Result, and thanks @Dee J for rounding the thread off .
  5. Nickfromwales
    You a million % sure? It wouldn't be that much disruption. One big primary hot = lots of wasted time and hot water. You might be able to pull a pioe through by dropping lights etc. Ask the plumber as he's know the layout best.
  6. Nickfromwales
    45 seconds? Have you got a pic of your setup Wendy? Maybe you can retrofit a HR pump cheekily just to warm the manifolds and the immediately connective pipework . That would shave a LOT off that time.
  7. Nickfromwales
    That's when it's worth fitting one, but please check and clean it every 6 months until it is evident that annual cleaning at the service interval will suffice.
  8. Nickfromwales
    Just give me the nod and they'll have a visit from the welsh mafia You don't have to only speak about building here, we love a good natter and I know that your not alone here in your predicaments, and their severity, so any time you want to offload just go for it. When your home is finished and looking a million dollars it'll be your turn to shine, and you can then give a smug FU to the jealous hairy scrotum-faced neighbours. And yes, you can tell them I said that ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    Erm.......just get the boards on ? Lay them horizontally if you need the upper parts of the walls still exposed ? Fixing the u it's back so the depths right will be a pita, plus you'll need it at 800 and upwards to fix and have something for the worktop to push back to. Sorry, not one I'd pursue tbh.
  10. Nickfromwales
    +1 Even on an install with rads I think a magnetic filter does little tbh. How many have been fitted, and forgotten, and are saturated with crud which renders them useless? I'll bet it's 75% or above. Unless you routinely clean these like its law then inhibitor is, and remains to be your best friend. @PeterW, fit the strainer, but save the filter money and use it to buy beer.
  11. Nickfromwales
    Usually not enough pipe to see the print as its repeated every metre, so just get a 15mm olive and see if it's snug or loose.
  12. Nickfromwales
    If it's 15mm UFH pipe not 16mm . It needs to be a reliable positive connection for pressure testing.
  13. Nickfromwales
    Just hook it up to the cold mains as that's pretty much the highest pressure it's going to see. 24hrs per loop if you want to save fittings or tee them all together. One of these will be fine
  14. Nickfromwales
    Just in case ?
  15. Nickfromwales
    A photo of where the pipes exit the slab may help. Close ups please. Oh, and welcome aboard .
  16. Nickfromwales
    Ultra is my weapon of choice.
  17. Nickfromwales
    I don't think these type have bump stop or limit switches because they are manually opened or closed. The operator has to insert the key and hold it in the up or down position and keep it there for the duration of the open / close event, thus it's deemed safe to operate without jam / limit control. I think those are only needed when it's fully automated one-press for up or one-press for down where you can walk away and a child / pet could get stuck without anyone knowing.
  18. Nickfromwales
    Wouldn't be the first time
  19. Nickfromwales
    @AliG What boiler have you fitted? Convert to LPG as a temp measure and say FU to adversity. ? In goes the wooden floor and the house gets some heat. ?
  20. Nickfromwales
    Can't see an empty beer can anywhere
  21. Nickfromwales
    Reserved for BH gold card holders im afraid.
  22. Nickfromwales
    The words "storm" and "teacup" may be in the report
  23. Nickfromwales
    Really liking the light wash on the wall in the first pic . Good to hear the TS is in and functioning. ?
  24. Nickfromwales
    ?. Batts are more rigid again, but rockwool was mentioned in the OP. Edit : Do you know the cost per M2 for frametherm at 100mm ?
  25. Nickfromwales
    For £60 I got the dual battery charger with USB power port. Never looked back. Cheers for the heads up, didn't know about the 1hour charger. Maybe that has no fan cooling so takes longer than the intelligent temp sensing one Ive got. Ill see if my spare is a rapid and if it's working. Fyi the 4's take a LOT longer even in my dual rapid. My prob is I'm always putting them into the charger when they're hot / warm and the charger blows cold air through them until the thermistor says it's cool enough to start charging. Sometimes that's a good 15-20 mins before charging actually commences.
×
×
  • Create New...