Nickfromwales

And you still stop to fix the mower ! ?

Rental appeal is not at its best when people see little electric panel rads TBH, even though they may be more than adequate when used in conjunction with a timeclock. If a communal system is used then the property with the least space can be plumbing-clutter free, but that could also easily be acheived with an electric shower, and an small electric water heater ( if no bath ). Best to remember that an UVC can be purchased to lay flat ( horizontally mounted, and purchased specifically ) so can be hidden in very little attic space. Boilers can go in the attic too with a vertical flue. Gas would be overkill if it were one system for each unit, but it is undeniably simple, widely understood, effective and efficient to boot. @v4169sgr, is grid gas available ? Also, tell us your name ??!!!!

If the two properties will never be divorced, I'd say heat with gas and have one boiler servicing heating and DHW for both units, or a bigger ASHP doing the same, with a single unified heating / DHW setup. Lower capital outlay and you could easily split them later if so required with a bit of thought in the plumbing layout now. Oh, and welcome. !

Fit the pipes at 150mm, as it's your heat demand that'll dictate how many watts per m2 you'll need to get out of your slab . You simply adjust the blending valve temperature on the UFH manifold to suit, starting low and working up daily to what you feel heats quickly enough but is comfortable too. You don't want the slab getting too hot and overshooting the set temp of the room thermostats. Having more pipe in the floor just means your slab will heat more responsively ( quicker ) so a bonus rather than a problem imo. The 6 series from Vaillant is their system range, eg 630. The last 2 digits is the kw rating. The combi series are the 8 prefix. The 630 would be about right to maintain premium DHW recovery, bit with correct sizing of the cylinder you could go much less. If your tight on space then better to have the bigger kw and a smaller cylinder can then be replenished quicker. To answer the question about the buffer you need to know the kw requirements of your heating when it's up to temp and idling, eg an hour or two into any heating event when the house is maintaining the chosen temp. Look at your heating demand like driving a car. To get to 70mph off the slip road you boot the throttle to get up to 70 ( your set temp of 21oC for eg ) but then you take your foot off the floor to maintain that 'speed'. Your heating does the same, so your problem only starts when you ask the boiler to settle down to maintain the lower demand as it'll not like idling at anything lower than 9kw. At that point you'll drop out of the condensing range of the boilers flow and return temp and the efficiency plummets which is where the boiler is then 'modulating' to reduce its output to try and match the lower heat requirement. To maximise condensing efficiency you'll need to be up in the 50/55oC range, and maintaining it, to minimise running cost, but that would be impossible if your house isn't absorbing and dissipating the heat at the equivalent rate. The buffer would act like a battery, with the boiler pulsing much hotter ( max efficiency ~55oC temp ) water into the buffer, and the UFH then takes as much or as little as it wants to maintain the room temp. Look at that like going to the pub . You don't walk to the bar to take a sip of beer and then go and sit back down, instead you get the barmaid to fill a pint glass ( even though you don't want a whole pint right there right then ) and you take that and sit down, sipping from it as you require. If you were super thirsty ( house cold ) then you could neck the pint ( UFH wanting lots of hot water to get to the required room temp ) and then when your not gasping ( house is now warm ) you go back to sipping from the full pint glass. The barmaid ( boiler ) can fill the glass quicker than you can empty it ( correct sizing of boiler and buffer ) and she gets a rest between fills ( your boiler not short-cycling eg barmaid not running back and forth filling a half glass AS your emptying it ) That cycle of the boiler heating the buffer and then going to sleep is what will keep it in mac efficiency condensing range and keep the heating bill to a minimum. It'll also stop the short cycling issue that not having a buffer would create ( barmaid running back and forth filing a shot glass with beer ) which will fatigue the boiler. Any good ?

Ok. Topps recommending that you put additives in the adhesive to make it 'waterproof'....total waste of time and money. Water should never be getting TO the adhesive so that's not even a consideration imo unless it's a wetroom where you have to allow for that eventuality. For wall tiling in any wet / splash area it's a no brainer, you just use cementitious adhesive ( powder mix ) which is impervious to water / moisture ingress. I'll still use acrylic ready made stuff but only really for kitchen splash backs or large areas in bathrooms which are outside of the splash areas and if there's no tanking. Save yourself any confusion and just stick to slow setting powder adhesive . These are called 'standard' or 'extended' set and will stay workable in the tub for up to an hour. Mix enough for a couple of m2 at a time if your a novice, and only mix more if you feel comfortable that your going to use it up in time. With ceramic you don't need the adhesive to be flexible, so use the cheaper regular stuff. @Ferdinand is 100% right about these additives being problematic with cleaning up / off, and I've only used an additive once, and never again. A nightmare to clean off tools, hands and anything else ( including the face / edges of the tiles themselves ). Avoid it like the plague. I've done enough full-on wetrooms to know that you don't need to put this crap into your adhesive, even more so if it's a regular bathroom not a wetroom . Grouting properly is the most important part of any tiling job. Mix it carefully so it just start to 'stand' on its own, eg when you remove the mixing stick / whisk the grout should just slowly slump back down, rather than fall flat. That way you can force it deep into the groutlines which is the right thing to do. A lot of novices just swipe the grout over the top of the groutlines and that's not good enough. Ram in as much as you can, and using a proper full handle grout float make that easy work. Don't use the little flat DIY grout spreader / scraper thingy as they're crap. Also, as I've told @Onoff, don't leave the spacers in. Use them end on to space, like you'd do with tile spacer pegs, so you can pull them out when the adhesive has set.

That's not cheap, it's FREE

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How much did you pay for the sprayer? And will you be up for selling it at the end of the build ?

Is a post now missing ? ?. No one will ever know ? Edit : just realised it's the one with the link for the 'anti-gurgle' trap. So for anyone who wants to know..... Bingo

Yup. 32mm solvent weld straight into that compression nut. Make sure the black rubber cone washer is the right way around, eg narrow taper into the trap.

Slicing the rear reveal off would be what I'd do. Perfect match, it's already there, and all you have to do is varnish the open cut edge at the rear and it's good as new. No brainer for me, just remember to cut off slightly more than you need so you can plane it so the saw cut / marks aren't visible.

In that case, give it a go. Just be wary of how much you lay on and how warm the house is. Try and cool it by opening all the windows before sun up ?

Yup. It's the amount of water that's in question. I've no doubt they specify it, but if doing mix after mix in the same wet hopper you'll need 'the eye' or it'll come out different each time. Still, irrelevant if you can't lay on and polish it. It does say it sands back easily but bollocks to that. I'd bet my left nut that any imperfections will be far more prone to cracking and shrinking back compared to two coats of regular skim. I just think this is something to put out to tender, and deffo not a DIY job imo, unless you've got previous plastering experience.

I don't personally see any value in yanking on the purse strings when it comes to the finish. It's what you'll be staring at for the next however many decades, and once you've painted it, if it's not perfect, it'll be waving at you every day. Save money on energy, save money on prudent purchasing, but don't try and save money when it comes to putting the icing on your very expensive cake. I had a similar exchange when I did an extension, when the customer questioned my painters quote of £1100 to do the hall stairs and landing, large house. When done, and all my lovely filling, sanding and blending-in was done, you couldn't tell where the old and new met. The customer said it was the best money he's spent ( hurt my feelings, but he was kinda right ). Pay a plasterer. Whilst he's skimming, go outside and start on all the landscaping you've been avoiding for the last 24 months

Note the BFO mixer required to compliment the pump. Looks like someone will need to be mixing and feeding whilst your spraying and trowelling.

I assume it's like K-rendering, where you still have to trowel it to a flat finish. The spray aspect is likely just to get the product onto the wall so it's no good without a degree of skill and prior plastering experience, otherwise it's going to be expensive Artex with just as bad a finish. Taping is going to have to be absolutely perfect as with regular skimming you can press any scrim tape back flat as you go, but with this it will not be so simple. @Pete @Alexphd1 do either of you have any experience laying on / trowelling up with normal plaster? If not, I suggest you look long and hard at this before getting in too deep. . Go buy a trowel and a bag of multi finish and have a little go, but it took me over a decade of watching plasterers before I had the balls to get my own plastering tools and have a go. I started off with the cupboard under my neighbours stairs, then some dry lined PB in his lobby, and a few small bathroom ceilings. I'm good now, but wouldn't dream of skimming a whole house or any very big walls, especially where they are subject to a lot of natural light. That said, I've seen a lot of 'plasterers' ( on their mothers side ) who have been at this for years and still couldn't get self levelling compound flat.

Yes, the expansion skirting will suffice. It wouldn't hurt to double up against the doors tbh, it's only 10mm thick so your floor covering will just fly over it.

If that's the shed, how bigs the house ?!? Can I be rude and ask what the kit alone cost ? Looks like a great solution, will there be a mezzanine? A lot of useful space up high there.

What size are the gaps?

Hi and welcome. Photo-hungry lot here .

Linky

That's going on my wall as soon as I get ink for the printer

If you stick to all hep and install in accordance with the MI's you'll be warranteed. If you mix n match you won't. Edit to add : I'd only use Hepworth fittings, they're just so much better than the likes of JG Speedfit.

1st floor bathroom and bed 4 are not having any windows ? ?

The answer could be none if it's Scottish Water and Einstein didn't fit 4 non return valves. .