Nickfromwales

I don't fit the trims until I've tiled the wall, leaving the pockets until last. Tiling the vertical wall to the trim is very hard as you don't know exactly how much adhesive you'll have so therefore don't know how far out to set the trim. Also, doing it in that order means any offcuts can be used for the pockets ( less wastage ).

You now know the cure . Go buy the above fitting and a new trap and it'll be near silent. ?

Don't you know a tidy plumber ? ?

Explain ?

A bit close to the wind though, and allows little for error?

Your doing well, keep calm, the end is nigh'ish. .

@Lesgrandepotato Id take some work clothes with you ? you know, just in case.

Yup. One combination trap to take the appliance, and one regular. The appliance connector on that one will allow all the noise from the discharging water to be audible from the sink waste, a bit like a loudspeaker. Make the waste pipework for the main bowl first, dry, no glue. Take the pipe immediately horizontal back to the rear of the unit, and then down to the outgoing water pipe, flat back against the rear of the unit to save space. Then cut a Y branch in on the vertical drop to accept the 1/2 bowl. Plumb that accordingly to avoid the socket. Having it plumbed this way will see the waste water from the main bowl leaving nothing behind, and generating far less noise from the appliance connection. You will still hear it unless you go for two standard traps and one of these fitted into a compression tee on the vertical drop, just before it exits the back of the unit to outside

"Ahhhhhhhh, shhhhiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit." The words uttered, or yelled, when youve looked at something, realised its wrong, then realised its never going to be right, ever, then you realise there's only one way to rectify it, then you think "no, wait, maybe XYZ will solve it", and it's right at that moment when the blood just runs cold...........and you finally accept that its F****D, and that's that, end of chat, end of hope. After a bit of loosing it, you come to your senses. The cup goes from half empty back to half full, and then you get a pen out and start to formulate a way through. Soon after starting the recovery action, you realise this is actually the quickest route to the correct, and ( most importantly ) FINAL conclusion. Your blood returns to its normal, or possibly slightly elevated temperature, and then the boots and gloves go on. It's time to get to it. Salute yourself for choosing this route Ian, and so swiftly executing it. You can't get time back on the build, but other recourse can wait. I've been there a few times more than I should, and you want to take a hammer to someone, but you can't. Not because of the law, but more because usually when things are found to be wrong it's too late and the culprit has fled the scene, cash in hand. You can't go after them with said hammer then, as that's pre-meditated murder, but if you club them to death at the scene, upon discovering them DOING something so disrespectful, whilst charging you for it, well that's different as you can plead temporary insanity and maybe get a suspended sentence. Maybe. Moral of the story : Only problem with the above goon hammering is the satisfaction is only very short lived. The satisfaction of doing what you're doing, and the subsequent feeling-proud-of-yourself for pulling all his shite down and starting again will make you smile for the foreseeable future, and beyond. That satisfaction will last forever. Sitting in a home YOU built, smugly sipping a fancy cocktail made from puréed newt, you'll look back and realise it's the best decision you ever made. "I salute you sir, the whole damn country salutes you". Now get back to work. ?

Tbh, I was going to suggest what @ProDave has said, but you've got here before me. I actually think your repair isn't too bad given what an absolute pig this kind of FU is to have to come behind and put right, even for a tradesman who's done it before As said, sand that lot of filler back until you just start to see the scrim tape, but DONT get actually down to it or it'll lift the fibres and that's a whole new can of worms. Apply another layer of filler with about 300mm of spread from the hole edge out, and then fine sand that to an acceptable finish. Paint is your friend here as if you apply a good 3 coats to the filler, the paint will actually act as a fine scratch filler and you can sand the completely dry paint back until the filler JUST starts to show, then you'll see paint in the dings and scratches which you leave there. Then, repaint, open a beer, and give yourself a pat on the back for not going in the car to find this goon and river dance on his face with rugby togs on. ?

Yes indeed ! A lot of us used to frequent Ebuild but it's owner decided to close it. We subsequently started this place and it's going strong . I'll add to this later, and welcome ?

+1 @swisscheese the one Jason fitted is 300L and he seems to do well with that one. With solar pv I'd probably go a bit bigger as DHW will be a big energy consumer and I wouldn't want to waste any excess pv with a smaller cylinder maxing out too soon.

Go bespoke, as you'll find these aren't exactly off the shelf items, ( but I've been proven wrong, and usually by my pie-hating nemesis @PeterW ). Fyi, these are just simple cranked stainless tube, with a couple of tabs welded on .

Continued from my comment here to keep that thread on topic. Having the bigger TS, even part satisfied and storing at lower temp, would still give plenty of DHW and low grade space heating energy, so the excess hydro would only have to be dumped after that achieves 80-85oC. Then, and only then would I worry about diverting to things like the towel rads, but tbh I'd run them off a separate low temp wet manifold, as well as the electrical element for backup, ( so oil can take over for generation-shy periods or all out failure / servicing of the hydro ), and keep all the services running as normal. @A_L has given a great solution, but mine utilises just about every ounce and provides a means to store it usefully, rather than dump it. Dont just think of DHW from the hydro, it can also proved an offset for space heating too, if your insulated and reasonably well enough to run a low temp heating system. Mvhr would further reinforce this solution. The oil boiler should only kick in to bridge any gaps / top up the cylinder with the cyl stat set at around 55-60oC. @Lesgrandepotato, remind us that you are also on grid electricity ? And size of supply ?

Hence my suggestion ( in your other thread ) of a much bigger TS. Further comments there on cylinder type / size / configuration so as to keep this thread on topic.

Making holes through the GRP isn't a problem if you have a robust method for prep, sealing and finishing at these points. Im in favour of @Onoff's solution, with 4 fixing points back to the vertical block work, but reinforced with a single cranked support at the centre of the 7m run, fixed onto the vertical wall below. That'll allow for a reduced strength detail for the construction of the rails and offer some resistance against lateral movement at the two external corners, the only real weak points here IMO. 2 people leaning back onto the rail at the corner is the only issue if no mechanical fixings are made at the floor junctions, but with only a 2m projection, that's already not a massive concern. You could go for cranked supports at each left and right hand side too, on the return walls, which when combined with the 4 back to block fixings at the start points, would be a very robust solution. The cranked supports can be made ornate / functional with up / down lights at the base to make them not look 'accidental'. This can be further reduced by fitting thicker glass and using the strength of the mechanical fixing ( glass to vertical uprights ) to keep everything stiff. Alternative is to go to a physically bigger and much thicker walled tubular construction, sufficient to do away with any additional vertical cranked supports. Choosing the right materials and clever design should give you a neat solution here. Fixing the feet down then becomes simple with just abrading the GRP and using a suitable bond, with slightly oversized ( say 100mm dia ) feet for extra purchase at each point. The shear weight of this as a single item will keep it in place, so you should be able to design-out any downward mechanical fixings afaic. Rainfall is then free to simply run off under the bottom rail, which will be floating along the entire run supported only by the feet. .

Option 1. Let the browning / other dry completely before fitting the new skirting. A good cheat is to fit one an inch bigger then the old, so your top edge is onto fresh original plaster. Easier to make good after I find, but dependant on how good / bad the original fit was.

You go over the ply with 40 grit paper and a block. You then go over the whole area with a smoothing compound ( a fine self leveller ) and then it'll be like a snooker table.

Plain 'ol PVA ( waterproof / outdoor ) and a 3mm comb to spread it out.

I'd go with 9mm ply over 18mm chipboard, glued and screwed every 100-120mm centres. Ceramic is nowhere near as hard as porcelain.

Tile with the spacer legs so the majority of the spacer is on show. After the adhesive sets, completely remove the spacer so when it comes to grouting the grout is solid in the lines. I hate it when people leave the spacers in and grout over them as that leaves little or no grout penetration at those points. You often see them showing or the grout having crumbled away so don't do that, especially in the wet / splash areas.

Put spacers in and put something heavy either side to stop them spreading apart / moving.

Wouldn't hurt TBH. Easier to do too.

I'd say that's a 3mm groutline and then the radius opening up.

It was until I tried cutting the first two tiles. .