Nickfromwales

Usually you'll stud frame the entire wall, and also use that to hide the pipework etc.

Because they can . I went in there on a Sunday to buy some Ultra self leveller. Started off nearly £40, got it down to £20 after 5 mins of repeating "f@@@@g HOOOOOOOW MUCH?!?"

You said it

Change of a tenner a bag is a result .

I did think that tbh, but I am known for only opening my mouth to change feet

Yup. Guess which letter is on the hat

F The pipe between c and d is blocked

Other soft drinks are available.

Jesus. I go to get a can of sugar free Fanta, ( life on the razors edge ), and another question Any cementitious powder adhesive will do the job tbh, just take a small grinder to the underlying layer and scratch them up REAL good to get a key. ?

I think the list would be VERY big. . The only problem I see is updating it and maintaining the list so it stays current. Tbh, the information finds itself in each thread, relevant to the ongoing discussion, so probably best to keep to that IMO. We have a glossary of terms but as far as products go, that's a hell of a list .

http://www.floplast.co.uk/uploads/downloads/110mm Pipe and Fittings.pdf The settlement bend seems to be for just that. A slip socket, telescopic bend that will move with ground heave. I just found this so we're both learning summat new

Never into an equal tee. You need to turn to horizontal first ideally, or, at the very least, have a Y branch set so the branch is at 12 o'clock and then a 45o bend into that to rectify back to vertical. The vertical drop then into that 45. The rest bend is the best option without a doubt.

They're called standard set or extended set. Rapid is 30 mins or less pot time, can be more like 10-15 mins if it's a warm day. Extended will give you around 45 mins to 1 hour, possibly more, again dependant on ambient temp. Ice cold water is your friend. Don't use the slug of ambient temp water sitting in the pipe as even that'll shave a bit off the pot time. Same with the adhesive, store it cold and dry.

Cheers.

That would work, and I've done a few where the border separates tiled lower / painted upper sections. The cuts look like they're not going to get much better, so border-decision time . T'would be good to lose that top rip though . Re adhesive, go to the smaller tile outlets / big BM and compare prices. Standard set regular for the walls, standard or rapid set FLEXIBLE for the floor. I'm averaging £12-15 per 20kg but B&Q do the Mapei stuff for stupid cheap now and then so check them out too. My mate paid £7 a bag the other day but I didn't see if they were 20kg or not. £12.17 for 20kg of Mapei rapid set. Trade point need you to log in for prices can't remember my password lol. Look ( in trade point ) for the Mapei in the brown bags / trade one They deffo do standard set as my mate bought it by mistake.

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With the double quadrant at the head of the shelf, is that all fixed yet? If not, tile and make sure there's no adhesive on the back of the tile. Then just bond it on afterwards? Tile cuts in the corners don't need to match unless it's just a bit of luck. I'd go for the better cuts / sizes according to the wall. The floor should be tiled first, but in my early days I used to tile the room off a batten, leaving the bottom course of tiles off, then I'd tile the floor, and then I'd remove the batten and carefully cut / scribe each bottom tile in to finish. If it were me, I'd do the drain and the wetroom area first, then the rest of the floor. Get that out of the way and you'll be able to focus 100% on the walls without the floor winding you up. Plus, not forgetting of course, the wall drain video shows that it needs to be connected, scrim'd, tanked and bedded in, floor and wall, prior to tiling. .

20-30 mins should suffice. Most of the expansion is in the first 5-10 mins max.

We used to reside on Ebuild. I dug this exchange up from there, which goes into a lot of detail. http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/14379-thermal-store-advice-comments/page__hl__jaspi

Sticks like shit to a blanket. I do the zig zag, press it firmly into place and squash the foam, then pull the two apart. See if there are any areas / voids that the foam hasn't stuck, top up there and then re-press into place and support. Even the low expansion foams will bite you on the arse if you don't have a robust method for holding the plinth completely tight against the eps.

I've fitted them before, and no complaints so far. And if they went tits up, oh would people complain. . For that money I'd grab them. Or share ?

I'll put a man on it @Trw144......oi!