Nickfromwales

Beware standing on the corners. A mate came to cove a bathroom for me 'to speed things along'. Cost me £760 and 6 weeks delay when he stepped on the corner and took the f****r clean off.

Every day is a school day here John . Welcome aboard!

Oh, and with runs as far away as 25m, I'd be seriously considering a hot return loop for instant hot water at every outlet.

Don't forget these will have to be galvanised steel headers, and quite big ones too. The overflow pipe will need to be 28mm copper minimum ( I'd do 35mm as when these things boil, these things BOIL ). Have you got an outbuilding / can otherwise accommodate a log gasification boiler?

Random grab here

Id say every 900mm, but there should be a regs standard for horizontal soil pipe runs.

For larger penetrations through steel ( when working on cruise liners / oil tankers etc ) they used to weld a very thick walled pipe back into an oversized hole. That pipe section acted as a sleeve for the actual service. That was then over plated either side with the tube section adding a lot of the removed rigidity. Section of tube was about 100-150mm long iirc. I'd say it can be done, but the original steel may have had to have been specced to grade 3 at the design stage to permit it. Deffo an SE question as it'll be required for your paper trail and warranty anyway.

100%. A sheet of 6mm ply is best. Nothing worse than causing damage and going backwards. Ask me how I know ?

The neutraliser is the key part, which separates the differing potentials and sources.

A typical setup mixing fossil and wood Aka : a royal pain in the arse.

If the ground is not great, use a flagstone as a pad, then wet concrete pads on those to actually hold the pipe. Come 1/2 way up the pipe, no need for more than they afaik. Just make sure it's benched either side so it can't move. Get a laser and work out the fall over the distance. That'll tell you your fall.

Hi and welcome back. How did you find us ?

The water may be normal / evidence from it having been wet tested as part of the manufacture / quality-control process. I cannot, however, recall ever having one delivered with evidence of that so question that with Wunda. @JSHarris, any feedback? The rest is just bad business, and at the least they should have offered you a seconds discount / opportunity to decline them. Return the lot, less the manifold, unless you can see evidence that the manifold has been fitted previously. As coffee stains and paint splashes won't really harm the performance I'd go for a discount on the price and shave a few bucks off the cost

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As I'm often on one man jobs, I have to be quite inventive when the likes of 500ltr cylinders arrive and have to go up vertically. A similar take on @JSHarris rope clutch method is my use of the humble ratchet strap. One around the cylinder, and then 2 more to pull the thing north. When your on your own, it's brain over brawn .

Used them a good few times ? Good kit and no complaints, cheap enough too.

Don't go bigger than 2.5mm2 or on longer runs you can start losing high end / treble due to capacitance. We used to run our 18" bass bins off 4mm2 so 1.5 should more than suffice for domestic drivers.

Hi and welcome. A bungalow should shave a good few £'s off the overall build cost so a bit of wise spending will serve you well and go towards some renewables and nice final finishes. ? Stay tuned !

Any stranded cable TBH, but OFC ( oxygen free ) is the proper stuff. Segregate the cables well away from the mains cables .

What he said Worse still a 10mm rip. I always do that first so all the scribbles get tanked over. Then with the final datum marked ( on the door frame / other spot not being tanked ) you then re-mark the room with nice clean walls. Eliminates the "bollocks, that's not the line I'm meant to be tiling to" accident.

Don't take the first line as gospel. Hold a tile above it / below it and start looking for micro rips ( 50mm or less ) and try shifting the datum up / down to rid you of these. Check window heads and cills, last tile against floor and ceiling ( making sure you have a cut tile against each, more so for the floor as you'll need to run down into the shower 'well'. I'll spend a half day sometimes on a line out, but you can see in seconds when it's not been done with enough commitment .

Yup. Those cables being damaged and them having to do it for free is terrible news

Yes to the trim orientation and same for windows. Get all walls done and all pocket trims done, THEN tile the pockets. For the shower pocket yes to the scrim. I'll see how much spare I've got and post it to you. Beware going nuts with it as it adds 2-3mm as you just can't get it perfectly flat on both axis. ( You probably will as your even more OCD than me but I'm trying to make money too don't forget ). For the other pockets, I'd just roller a few ( 3-4 ) coats of tanking solution on and then you can stick all the tiles on with powder adhesive. Anywhere you want to tile and it's plywood just tank it so you don't have to use silicone. Far easier and belt n braces too.

Agree, but isn't that ~7p figure going to be reflecting the average with DHW prob being break even or even negative CoP ? Edit to add : figures for an ashp's performance should be accompanied by a case study for the comparison to be made imo.

My reply......"make it fit"