Nickfromwales

Just love the way it says "harmful fibres" not asbestos fibres. . If it doesn't fully penetrate then the risk remains. 2 coats over PVA will sort just about anything. Get a plasterer that weighs more than 8 stone wet and has big arms. First coat bulks and fills, top coat levels and finishes.

Overboard the ceilings?

I guess so. Tbh the last lot i decorators caulked around so the gap got painted out.

Yes boss ! Just asking for boxes which get plastered in and the box fairy nudges them out of kilter.

Any with adjustable lugs?

Getting dry lining boxes to stay level during plastering is the issue. I'd go for fitting the metal boxes everywhere, using LE exp foam to retrospectively fix the awkward ones into place. You then have the benefit of the one adjustable toggle whereas the dry lining boxes have zero wiggle room for levelling.

Don't forget a good solid front door so your neighbour can't get in to beat you up when the planning dept make him knock half of his house down

What @Onoff said. These things are pennies so why even waste the time. If you can't turn the supply off just put some shorts and a T-shirt on and get in there. I changed an outside tap the other day with the mains stopcock nowhere to be found. I just reached around the corner of the building and started to loosen it out of the backplate. A few turns later the thing shoots across the back garden and it's like Niagra falls. I had the new tap PTFE'd ready to turn into the empty backplate but JESUS it was a battle. Have a swift pint and then get in there . A video of you changing it live would be priceless educational.

Let's have the pic lol.

With the added benefit that when they're tinting, the sun is hitting the pv array ?

?

@Onoff s pic here shows it best.

Negatory . The full frames have the cistern outlet moulded as a solid section of the cistern which faces forward. It's clipped to the metal frame and doesn't move a mm. The black soil bend is shown loose here, but gets locked into position by a horseshoe clip and doesn't budge. What you get left after boarding / tiling. The geberit supplied pan connector pushes into the larger hole, cut to length to suit, and likewise with the supplied flush pipe. Plenty of silicone grease on the ends and the pan slips onto them like a hand in a glove. Bingo.

In the previous text you won't get 250mm in unless its excavated more. The mix of insulation type is cheaper and still has a very good u value plus I always favour EPS against Mother Earth as it's will conform to the surface better. I also put the DPM above the first layer of EPS and under the pir so it's protected against puncturing. If you can get 250mm of EPS in then go for 150 EPS and 100 pir just for the better u value.

The EPS won't compress as it should be EPS 100 ( not 70 ), so my money is on the groundworks having not been prepared properly / fully. . If the ground is compacted with grade 3 stone, then topped with type one, whacked thoroughly as it's being layered, and then blinders with a sand layer it'll simply never compress to that degree, certainly not 20mm. Laying 150mm of wet concrete will also weigh a hell of a lot more and consume a lot more volume than the required 100mm. Many here have gone for 100mm reinforced slab without issue, plus pex-al-pex UFH is pretty solid stuff which my screeders regularly wheel full wheelbarrows of screed over and walk upon without issue. Striking the pipe of stepping on it where it is not supported by the rebar is of course a daft thing to do, so it's down to the care and diligence of the contractor to be careful, and down to you to be there to enforce this in what will be one of the most important parts of the build. Absolutely no need for 150mm of reinforced concrete afaic, so focus on the prep work and the rest will be relatively easy / straightforward.

More insulation, and put the reinforced slab as your finished floor with the UFH pipes attached to the mesh.? Do away with the screed and have a much more efficient floor to boot with the extra insulation . Go for 100mm of PIR, over 100mm of EPS and have the DPM under the PIR. Lay the EPS over your levelled and compacted type one and no need for loads of blinding with sand other than to fill any troughs in the type one after whacking

Is there a damp course under this floor? You may well have to apply a liquid DPM on top of this first as a mitigation measure. Dry line before levelling by all means, if it's your preffered route, but you mustn't leave the dab or boards in contact with the old floors or they'll likely wick moisture up and fail. Id apply a couple of coats of liquid DPM between the floor and wall junctions before dry lining in case any dab drops down behind the board and bridges the floor and wall. Likewise with the self-leveller. You don't want that running under the plasterboard and bridging the damp that way either as that would cause even more issues. On the new work this issue is minimal to zero, but on the existing / old / unknown it's imperative you don't overlook these preventative measures.

The BCO will usually accept a demonstration of proper / reliable function TBH. The proof is in the pudding. If I doubt they'll be happy initially with one of my 'get out of jail card' solutions, I cobble it all together and call the BCO out. They cant say it wont work when they can see it working and they get the final say.

To get 'splashback' out of an adjacent WC from another would be something I've never seen. I've fitted multiple WC's in nightclubs and hotels etc and they've been less than a metre apart in some instances. If the soils can fall vertically before any horizontal invert then the 'issue' is instantly removed. If you plan a T in between two rear exiting WCs which are DIRECTLY opposite each other then the worst you'd get is the water level in one being noticeably moved by flushing the other. 'Debris' would likely become apparent in the lesser used one over time, but I doubt anyone would ever T two together in such a way anyhoo as its not common practice. Offest the two WCs by 300mm or so and you'll be able to couple up to the same T using an 'intersection branch' and the issue is done with there and then. One of these or one of these for eg, with the two WCs existing horizontally left and right into the latter as the first choice.

Well worded, misleading sack-o-crap ? Just another plain electric with some inventive write up. They shouldn't use the word 'Thermo' as it's not a thermostatic unit in any way ? This one is actually a thermostatic unit, and not a budget buster Don't go for the larger 9.5kw as they're far more cold supply hungry, whereas the 8.5kw will tootle along, managing fluctuations with a little less noticeable dip in temp / performance. The 8.5kw will still provide a plenty adequate shower too. Most 9.5kw showers in a busy home spend their life on the medium setting anyway, as the high setting just needs too much presume and flow to keep it going flat out.

Ok, an annex. Fyi do you both need to edit TRV to TMV ? Can you get an umbilical DHW supply from the house ? A hot return circuit governed by occupancy / demand would be a good solution and suffer no delay in getting hot water out of the outlets. Practicality needs to play a big part here but if this is a long term solution, with regular / daily usage in mind, I'd want a better lifelong solution if it were me. At the absolute minimum I'd go for a THERMOSTATIC electric shower and a small DHW storage heater ( 15 L ) to fit under counter to service hand wash. Kitchen / utility ? ?? @MikeSharp01, do you have room for a small uvc ?

Ok. First off, never ever have a non anti-scald aka non-thermostatic shower from any instantaneous water heater........ever.......never ever. Ever. Second I wouldn't dream of not having a mixer tap on the basin. What I would do, as I have in my house, is fit a small TMV in the hot feed to cap the basin temp and it stabilises the water delivery wonderfully. The problem you have is asking a single water heating unit to deliver a temp range that is suitable for showering AND basin use. Typically the basin flow would be much hotter than the shower will ever need so you need to deal with the appliance which is most temp intolerant to the higher output temp, eg the shower, and design the hot water delivery around the outlet which needs the hotter water range eg the basin. What is feeding DHW to kitchen / utility? Fwiw, I would not be using an electric instant unless it had a decent cold uplift pre-heater, as I think this will struggle in the colder seasons where the incoming mains gets a lot colder. If your dead set on this I believe @joe90 may have a steibel that is surplus to requirements, if he hadn't already sold it. Fwiw #2, I'd choose a Sunamp for this job and nothing else, or a small uvc. I believe life with the electric instant would not carry much luxury. If it were for wash basins only I'd go for it. Why have you decided upon this route if I may ? Annex ?

One I did a good while back was convection circulating over 17m of pipe away from the TS which went through an underground trench between the house and the garage ( new plant room ). No additinal pump needed afaic, unless it's the longest, most adverse run in history. Rememver you do need motorised 2-port zone valves ( ZV ) at the TS for each flow as otherwise you'll get them all draining heat from the TS 24/7 with convection circulation . Use the orange and grey wires of the 5-wire ZV to switch the respective manifold pump on, as that way you'll never have the pump pulling on a closed or partially open ZV.

"He who pays the piper calls the tune" .

@Temp If you highlight a particular section of text, then expand to encompass it, you'll be shown a 'quote' tag. Just press on that and the selected text will drop into the fresh editor page and be marked as quoted from said person . So it looks like that. I think you have to do it individually rather than encompass a few in one go, if I understood what you did correctly.