Nickfromwales

Deffo to air con if you can get it, as heat rises and if you felt compelled to fit it in the bedrooms on the 1st then....... I'd fit radiators and use those as the primary heat source. A thermostatic radiator valve will deal with shutting the rad off to avoid overheating and it doesn't get much simpler than that. I don't think I'd want to rely on the A/C for heat for the winter as in this country it's on for a long time . No noise off a radiator either ?

Bird is the word.

@Onoff can make the box section and away to go. ?

These wipes contain voodoo ingredients which get it off too if your quick. I don't know what's in them but their fantastic.

Yup. As long as the foam can't get to atmosphere it'll stay good for ages. Clean the tip with gun cleaner and happy days.

I'd also look at the cost for excavation and seriously consider an ASHP. Youll need to run the numbers on this before jumping in. If either ( low grade heat ) source struggles to heat the house you'll ultimately be reinforcing with grid electric, so measure thrice, fit once ?

Nope. Entire elevation.

As an aside....the flexible tap hoses shouldn't go directly onto the ballofix valves either. They should screw onto These flat faced copper to irons first, and then have a short section of copper going between the ballofix and the aforementioned fitting. The ballofix has a sharp edge to the conical part that the olive seats against, and that can chew into the rubber seal in the tap flexi and cause the fitting to leak over time. I know that from my early days after working for a penis that did this to save £3 on every job.

'Twill need to be budget for now. Just need to get it watertight so I can mothball my bigger tools whilst in in sick bay. Was using my old transit as a rolling store but I've sold it so got to empty it now.

Sheathing it first would also allow you to box the roof of the shed in, so way less draughty. I think I'll go for the bitumen coated sheets tbh, as I've sheathed in 18mm osb for the 'mower' shed ( 8'x8'x8' roof sloping to 7' ) and the felt lasted about three days or so . If supported fully they seem the obvious choice. I've seen ones used locally which have been on for a good decade and they're still mint.

Couldn't you just fix a horizontal ventilated soffit strip to the underside of the facia and then fill the gap?

Theres plenty on here to read about on the differing opinions on true south facing vs a bit of variation Either way, a wise investment. Welcome aboard.

Hi and welcome...back The whole RHI scheme seems arse backwards to me but hey-ho. Be inefficient, burn more, pollute more, get rewarded......I wonder if it was a great initiative? Yup. Get the lot out. Hardcore, blind, DPM, insulation and then the new slab, and if you can get the place as draught-free as possible and the windows and doors sorted, you could even entertain underfloor heating. Are you doing this place up to stay there for the duration?

Im assuming the internal work was done after it was bolted together, so probably a fair bit of destruction ( plumbing / electrics / finishes etc ) before it could be separated? Id be there tomorrow morning if the budget and my arm allowed. Marketplace here has to be worth a shot? Give it a good bit of coverage, be our guest !!

One week ban for each of you

That would fit around the side of my house just BEAUTIFULLY........?????????????? Please put that and me out of our misery asap.

Turn a screw into the plugs and you'll be able to pull them out of the tiles. A bit of colour match silicone / caulk and you'll be ok, but if it were me I'd be asking for the tiles to be replaced..........

Pink do their own gun which seems to diffuse differently from the regular guns. If it's getting sent down a chuckaway straw then it won't matter TBH. The PG cans come gun or hand ready, but that means you get a free straw with every can so decide how you intend to applicate....gun to surface or hand held straw through a gap and go from there.

Soudals offernig. £6 a can if you select qty 10, cheaper the more you buy.

@Cpd Pink grip is what I normally use.

Agreed. There are two height adjustable brackets up top, and another two basic brackets down lower, plus it looks like silicone / other has been used too. That means, if all are screwed, the unit is going nowhere. Is it touching the pipes or resting on them ? If it's the former than I'd not worry. Grab the pipes and see if they move left to right. If they do I'd not move it back as you'll have holes in the tiles which will then be on show on the right hand side ( can't help wondering if you don't already have some showing on the left side ). I'd use this opportunity to sit down with your builder in a minutes drawn meeting and express how pissed off you are with how your clear request has not been executed anywhere near what you asked for. If you don't rock the boat a little here the drop in attention will continue to spiral out of control.

Yes, plenty of merit to that solution. Just be sure not to allow the foam to expand beyond the end of the lintel.

No, no,.......and no. The rainfall heads need a constant light scrub to keep the jets from going grotty, so you really don't want then either out of comfortable reach, or next to a painted ceiling. Either have the drop bar, or the wall mounted arm, and have the shower head where you can move it easily whilst showering. You really don't want to be stepping out of the shower area and getting the edges of the shower tray excessively wet which is what will happen with your proposal. Go for something like these or these wall mounted. They look quite nice, and create an 'expensive' feel to boot. I fitted 4 rectangular ones in the last 1400x 900 shower enclosure ( showroom charged around £200 a pop for that exact same light ) and they gave plenty of light off. You don't exactly need to be floodlit in the shower tbh. A shower head with lights coming out of it is going to look a bit like a weird tbh. One of those things that sounds like a good idea at the time but maybe the result would be a bit cheap looking. Sorry.

With floor tiling you need to lay "bed and butter'. You bed the floor with ( in your OCD flat floors case ) an 8mm notched bed of adhesive, and then you butter the back of the tile so it's uniformly covered in adhesive, all the way to the edges and, most importantly, the corners. That's what's referred to as 'solid bed' or 'fully bed'. NEVER put a dry tile down into the bed. The consistency of the adhesive is critical, too thin and the tile will not 'stand' on the adhesive, too thick and it'll be difficult to set the tile down to the required finished position. Too much adhesive and the grout lines will fill, bit just sliding over and cleaning out with a finger, then a sponge sorts that with ease, and tbh I usually do that to make sure the edges and corners are fully packed out. Messy, but better imo, and you just need to keep a bucket of clean water and a sponge to hand throughout to keep your hands and the tiles clean as you work. Stand the spacers up, about 50mm in from the corners so you can rub your finger across all 4 corner points to check that you don't have any kickers. Also do that with the spacers so you can simply pull them out with a pliers later. I never put the spacers in the corner and grout over them as that leaves part grouted voids in every corner which is crap imo.

I went to see our settees and sat in them before buying. Some look great, then they arrive and the backs way too low, or sink to the floor. Try before you buy is a well spent 7 hours imo. You'll be sat in them for a long time so beware of click - deliver - regret.