Nickfromwales

Erm.......just get the boards on ? Lay them horizontally if you need the upper parts of the walls still exposed ? Fixing the u it's back so the depths right will be a pita, plus you'll need it at 800 and upwards to fix and have something for the worktop to push back to. Sorry, not one I'd pursue tbh.

+1 Even on an install with rads I think a magnetic filter does little tbh. How many have been fitted, and forgotten, and are saturated with crud which renders them useless? I'll bet it's 75% or above. Unless you routinely clean these like its law then inhibitor is, and remains to be your best friend. @PeterW, fit the strainer, but save the filter money and use it to buy beer.

Usually not enough pipe to see the print as its repeated every metre, so just get a 15mm olive and see if it's snug or loose.

If it's 15mm UFH pipe not 16mm . It needs to be a reliable positive connection for pressure testing.

Just hook it up to the cold mains as that's pretty much the highest pressure it's going to see. 24hrs per loop if you want to save fittings or tee them all together. One of these will be fine

Just in case ?

A photo of where the pipes exit the slab may help. Close ups please. Oh, and welcome aboard .

Ultra is my weapon of choice.

I don't think these type have bump stop or limit switches because they are manually opened or closed. The operator has to insert the key and hold it in the up or down position and keep it there for the duration of the open / close event, thus it's deemed safe to operate without jam / limit control. I think those are only needed when it's fully automated one-press for up or one-press for down where you can walk away and a child / pet could get stuck without anyone knowing.

Wouldn't be the first time

@AliG What boiler have you fitted? Convert to LPG as a temp measure and say FU to adversity. ? In goes the wooden floor and the house gets some heat. ?

Can't see an empty beer can anywhere

Reserved for BH gold card holders im afraid.

The words "storm" and "teacup" may be in the report

Really liking the light wash on the wall in the first pic . Good to hear the TS is in and functioning. ?

?. Batts are more rigid again, but rockwool was mentioned in the OP. Edit : Do you know the cost per M2 for frametherm at 100mm ?

For £60 I got the dual battery charger with USB power port. Never looked back. Cheers for the heads up, didn't know about the 1hour charger. Maybe that has no fan cooling so takes longer than the intelligent temp sensing one Ive got. Ill see if my spare is a rapid and if it's working. Fyi the 4's take a LOT longer even in my dual rapid. My prob is I'm always putting them into the charger when they're hot / warm and the charger blows cold air through them until the thermistor says it's cool enough to start charging. Sometimes that's a good 15-20 mins before charging actually commences.

Standard / rapid charger? Don't they only do one? All COLD 3ah batteries should charge in 22 mins or so ? @JSHarris had a link to his tried and tested Micky mouse ones .

@j_s You can't go thicker than 300mm really with wool as it crushes down under its own weight at 400mm. Wool relies on it being uncompressed to achieve its stated values, so after 300mm your just wasting time effort and ? for no additinal reward. ? Cellulose has far more benefits so I'd go that way TBH.

Airtightness is only on the outside cassettes so different reasons for that approach vs internal room dividers. In contrast, I have NEVER seen one built that way. Always joists, then deck for a walking platform and additional lateral restraint, then upper walls done ( regardless if they're built on site or cassettes ). @bissoejosh I can only assume this is for instances where the underlying joists are running parallel to the walls in question, as if perpendicular then they'd be traversing the joists anyway. It goes without saying that it should be 22mm deck if there are any 'floating' walls. The norm, in exceptional circumstances, is to provision an additional joist directly where the stud wall is to lay, thus taking the load. An alternative, if the stud wall is dead centre of the void in between two joists, so is 'floating', is to fit full size noggins, ( or "dwangs" if your from a different persuasion ), at 600mm centres to provide a brace. Your BCO should accept that in a heartbeat, but you don't say if the joists are to be 600 or 400mm centres? All I can tell you is if your designer has them at 600mm then pay extra and beef up to 400's as the difference in the feel of the floor is massively noticeable, even with additional strong-backs it's obvious that there's deflection.

Result ?

And twice the DHW flow rate if the cold mains will allow it. .

Is yours a 5-wire? If so then it's a match.

When working on the Royal Fleet Auxiliary contracts we tested until it hurt, but that was 17 years ago and I was on £54k basic so didn't care

If you know where all the cables start and end, then it's not really ever practiced in real life, ( but every time we second fix and everything switches on nicely first time, we do breathe a sigh of relief ). .