Nickfromwales

Clive....some of those screws are a few mm difference on centres. Best take them out and do it agin I think. Don't want standards slipping eh? PS, what length are those screws ?

Lay off the G&T's and you won't forget to turn the taps off

I'll get your coat ?

What will the neighbours say ?!?

#12footlongpole

@mike2016 How long is a piece of string? ?...... Look at the job like an onion, from which you are about to start peeling off layers. What you do will be affected by what water damage or wear and tear the room has suffered since being put in. You lift the flooring and take the skirting off, the boxing in is shot so that's got to come off, sink and WC must come off / out to do this work properly , then the wall tiles come loose and on it goes. Thats a pessimistic view, but often the case I'm afraid. I've been doing these type of jobs for around 23 years so now know not to even start one like yours when the customer says "I just want to do the floor, and NOTHING else", ( as that's when to run away ). You may be lucky and it goes much smoother, but when you mention things have had a drink or two the alarm bells start ringing. From the pics it looks like your skirting is over the flooring, so take that off first and see if that's gone incident free. Use a multi-tool too cheap to struggle on without one, don't forget to buy spare blades to cut it into small sections so it comes off easier and then plan the new skirting so the cut / joint lands behind the WC and out of sight. Youll need plywood, a min of 9mm over floorboards or 6mm over Weyrock. Either deck will need to be screwed down tight prior to overlaying the plywood, so brings a new nightmare of what are you about to screw through. If if I were you, I'd look at some of the really nice new vinyl click flooring that's available as it's a much easier route to an equally nice job, plus the tiles will be much colder underfoot. You apply a bit of clear silicone to the joints as you lay to waterproof them so the floor doesn't suffer the same fate. If you definitely want tiles, get the sink and toilet out and lift the existing flooring and let's see what's underneath and we can advise from there. Have you done tiling before? Is this your only bathroom?

I've hung radiators and boilers and more on everything you can imagine. I drill a hole, tap a plug in, and then pack the centre of the plug with a sliver of pine, also tapped in until snug and then snapped off flush. Then in goes an oversized coach bolt. 3 per bracket ( 2 top + 1 btm ) so 6 per radiator. Where there's a will........

I'm slightly jealous tbh, as I really like the look of the house. Ok, very jealous. Keep blogging!

Move to Wales, the sun never goes in ??

Watertight ? Most would be happy with weathertight ! Ignore me, I'm the class idiot Welcome aboard ! How are you heating it ? Having solar PV ?

You then ditch the plasterboard fixing and go back to nylon plug and coach bolt .

Yea yea........

Not big enough to warrant foam. Go with chips.

Use something like Toupret filler and then you can force dry it with a hairdryer or hot air gun Build it up in a few layers, force drying the first two, then top coat and leave to dry naturally. 50 / 50 PVA / water in the trough first. Good filler is your friend.

Have you liquid tanked as well as the self adhesive banding?

Just to fully wrap it up, I wasn't drunk, just tainted slightly.

Strapper : the pair of cables that go between 2-way or intermediate light switches. Wago : Yup. Intermediate : Refers to switch type and the discipline of adding additional switches to one or more lights, eg a long hall / stairs / landing. Two way switching eg two switches that bring the same light on or off can only consist of 2 x 2-way switches. To add a third eg hall / S / L then you need to interrupt the strappers with the third intermediate switch. As it intersects 2 pairs of cables you need 4 connections, and you can add as many intermediate switches as you like. See the pics that @Onoff listed and you'll see the intermediate setup. Wait until your brand new nippers go through a shower cable that your apprentice tells you the breaker for has just been switched off. When he's switched off the cooker instead. Thatll shiver your timbers matey

Sit tight and wait for the replies to come in. There's usually is a way out and a few heads are better than one

Apologies, as im only seeing this now....this place is moving in the fast lane at the moment The pump looks fine, brass body / brass impellers, ticks all the boxes afaic. Have you considered a slimline UVC? No need for pumps then maybe, and you can do away with the huge CWS you'll need if going to a 2 or 3 bar twin pump. 50 gallon minimum for that. Question for 2 or 3 bar is dependant on whether you want to run two showers simultaneously. Then you need to look how much hot water that will use as two showers will suck a regular hot tank dry in no time at all. Last one I did all pumped was a nightmare, and we ended up fitting a much bigger hot cylinder and adding a 50 gal CWS tank to the existing 25 gal tank so they could fill their large bath without a drought.

Pity the sloped bit is the other end Have you chosen taps yet? Bath overflow filler is uber sleek

Ive never seen two guys so happy to be holding each others wood

Is the hot water from a copper cylinder with tanks in the attic aka a vented / open-pipe gravity system? If so you will need a mixer tap that separates the hot and cold water all the way to the open mouth of the spout. If the hot and cold are able to mix in the tap body then you may get issues with poor performance of the hot flow as it'll be fighting against cold which will be at mains pressure. A non-return valve on the hot may cause the issues its meant to cure as it'll also act as a restrictor. In a bungalow for eg you would already be minus around 0.8 - 1 bar of head ( pressure ) so you'll need to ask questions prior to purchase

Not that I wish to "rub it in", but a verbal assurance from one company or individual about a 3rd party's involvement or commitment is not concrete advice on which to base anything, im afraid. I'd suggest that we focus on the architect here rather than MBC, as MBC clearly have done nothing wrong whatsoever in this instance and the architect has completely misled you, unless they can show you any written correspondence directly from MBC to the contrary of course? A rant is fine, does a bit of good even, but it needs to be focussed on the parties or individuals that have provoked it. In this case the architect.

Still of little comfort.........