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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    Lol .
  2. Nickfromwales
    Enjoy.
  3. Nickfromwales
    .....is the right answer. .
  4. Nickfromwales
  5. Nickfromwales
    Not entirely. On this one there will still be a hot return pump ( yet to be fitted in the pipe directly above that pump ) which only returns from the furthest hot outlet, the kitchen sink. For this installation I set it up so that the hot to the kitchen sink is the furthest manifold outlet away from the manifold supply inlet, so the hot return travels through all the large bore hot pipework from the water heater ( Sunamp ) and all the way through the hot manifold, and in doing so it pre-heats the whole manifold, thus killing off the dead leg that would otherwise exist. Manifolds, unless directly off the hot water device, still cause an issue because they need large bore runs tobthwm before they reduce accordingly, but they do reduce losses vs traditional series plumbed installations, so each case has to be designed specifically and will be unique.
  6. Nickfromwales
    City plumbing are very expensive on any tidy brand of bathroom ware. I have NEVER been able to use them and I have an account there. . Ask for the materials budget figure and procure direct, you'll save 4 figures. HR are a good brand, around the same as Vado. Middle of the road on quality ( which is ample and come with good warranty ) and plenty good enough. For the 4 rooms I'd order from Megabad and have the Grohe / HansGrohe stuff for the same money. You need to focus on this and not be steered by the builder .
  7. Nickfromwales
    At £20 for 5 kilos that bal works out £80 a bag . Way OT ( F ) T.
  8. Nickfromwales
    'Was' being the operative word
  9. Nickfromwales
    He did, but not because of his swollen nutsack.....it was because he had his speedos on back to front.
  10. Nickfromwales
    All the above are spot on.
  11. Nickfromwales
    Bal is too expensive.
  12. Nickfromwales
    Crack on. May as well start at the start .
  13. Nickfromwales
    For high flow rates, the norm is to start off from the hot water cylinder in 28mm pipework to where perhaps the first bathroom gets teed off, then it reduces to 22mm as it gets further in, and then reduces finally to serve each outlet at the end of the run. It's not rocket science, and if he can do an S-plan or Y-plan he can do this. If they can't wire S / Y then bid them fairwell. It's nothing to do with RHI if you buy the kit cheap and DIY, foregoing the MCS price tag. You'll soon stop staring at your roof and be more focussed on your energy bill, which will only keep going up and up and up.
  14. Nickfromwales
    I'm with you on this one. Too much effort gone in to date to 'practice' here !?! That trowel is horribly square and sharp. At the VERY least you'll need to borrow a worn in trowel, or buy a ready worn-in one new. That trowel you've got is good for a bit of cement roughing and nowt else. Listen up boyo !!!! Not this time, ok. .
  15. Nickfromwales
    +1. Scrap the roof tiles and use the solar setup as your covering. ?
  16. Nickfromwales
    Maybe, but also the option to fit a couple of Rinnai tankless gas water heaters. Pro : capital cost Con : flue penetration annual inspection
  17. Nickfromwales
    Ok, so DHW is a big part of this picture. When you say 7 showers, how many occupants will there be to use them ?
  18. Nickfromwales
    Yes. The part that goes underneath shouldn't be spun, only the top part. That way you don't get the rubber washer displacing and the trap going off centre.
  19. Nickfromwales
    Yes your right. Read a screw fix forum the other day where they were doing this, but it would be massively detrimental to the boiler, plus it would instantly void any warranty. If serviced by a gas boiler then yes. As theres no potable water stored ( its a nigh on instant water heater ) there is also virtually no risk of legionella. No. You can get the smaller 22mm coil fitted and still run two good showers. I only suggest that a 28mm coil is used if theres 3 or more showers. Always 2 immersions on a tank this size, id probably say fit 1 x 3kw and 1 x 6kw so you have the 6kw for emergency back up ( failsafe ) and the 3kw for PV integration. 6kw lowest and the 3kw above it. That way if the boiler ever goes down you can dump 9kw of electricity into it and have at least some heat / hot water. Sparky will need to know about this asap to give you the correct supplies.
  20. Nickfromwales
    Nope. I'm fed up with buying Robux. Damn you Easter holiday. !!!!!!!!!! Bring back the hoop and the stick.
  21. Nickfromwales
    And we're going to let you .
  22. Nickfromwales
    Biggest gotcha is cross-threading the waste when you turn it in to tighten it. Makes you think it's tightened up snug underneath but it hasn't. Set it up dry and count the number of turns it takes to get it snug, then count them again when you seal and give the final tighten up.
  23. Nickfromwales
    Who gave him a speaking part ?
  24. Nickfromwales
    The number one F@@@ up by sooooo many 'bathroom fitters' and kept me in work for a good few years alone. The tray gets fitted, then the cubicle, and then the cubicle gets sealed up, as per the manufacturers instructions e.g. all around the outside and down to the tray, then around the outer edge of the cubicle to the tray so nowhere for the water to go other than in the tray. The tiles then get sealed to the tray all the way up to the cubicle and then there's big smiles all round and money changes hands. Then the trouble starts, from the very first shower. Water hits the shower cubicle junction with the wall profile. Water goes straight inside and runs down to the bottom. Some runs out of the gap between the tray and the bottom of the cubicle and into the tray to drain away, and the rest goes into the gap behind the wall profile between the tray and the tiles ( which didn't get sealed prior to the fitting of the wall profile ). That acts like a guttering and transports the water right around the underside of the tiles and out to the front of the tray where the tile sits on it. Acrylic tile adhesive reconstitutes with constant damp / immersion ( one of the reasons I don't use it in bathrooms ever ) so the water eventually gets behind / below the tray and from the front, all appears like new. Then the dining room ceiling caves in 3 years later .
  25. Nickfromwales
    No lol. Itll need to heat the UVC too, unless you have another boiler hidden away ? ?
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