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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
  2. Nickfromwales
    The UVC is fed from the cold supply. The cold supply is connected to the accumulator, recharging and discharging accordingly. I'll post a diagram in a bit, easier that way
  3. Nickfromwales
    Now that's progress !! What a difference .
  4. Nickfromwales
    Yup. Spin it around and it should be sorted.
  5. Nickfromwales
    B is typically DHW. As this should be a W-plan then DHW should be set to priority. The above is a mid-position for reference only, and the valve you ( should ) have should be the diverter version.
  6. Nickfromwales
    Yup. Electric showers are the anti-Christ.
  7. Nickfromwales
    Ok I'm confused too What secondary tank ? The UVC is cold MAINS fed, so... cold mains stopcock 22mm pipework to uvc multi-block. multi-block has a 3.5 bar PRedv to glean 3.5 bar feeds to both the cold and the hot so you get a "balanced" hot and cold network with both at the same potential. 22mm feed to the UVC from the multi-block 22mm feed to the cold outlets. ( except WC's ). WC's fed from cold main after the stopcock but before the PRedV. outside tap same White goods fed same Explain what you meant by second tank ? A tank is an open plastic box, an accumulator is a sealed giant coke can with a half inch thick rubber bladder inside that gets filled and pressurised to the same pressure as the mains.
  8. Nickfromwales
    You won't have a gravity cold water storage tank ( CWS ) so you can't have any pumps ANYWHERE . Why upgrade the mains? If an accumulator will suffice you don't need to do that and you may get away without a meter for longer. Do you know the mains pressure / flow rate ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    That's my boy. . Ill add more in a bit ?
  10. Nickfromwales
    Asking a spark to wire 3 lights isn't quite a blank cheque, let's be honest. If they take a day to do the outside work then your looking at their day rate. If they take a day just to fit the 3 lights then start asking questions. Have you asked for a quote for the work yet ?
  11. Nickfromwales
    They'd both need a cold main each Every pressurised water heater is cold mains dependant. No cold flow in = no hot flow out. Simples. You need to throw money at this, and there are a few ways to spend it. First:- How many showers are there now? When do they get used ? You charge for energy in a HMO monthly rental fee anyway, so how much excess consumption are you looking to prevent? Shortesr route :- You can put a 4-500L UVC in and fit a 500L cold mains accumulator to reinforce the hot and cold system and run cheap mixer showers. Job done. No option for timers etc so tough titties for going cheap. Timed route :- Get 3-phase in from the street to the meter location. Min £1800-£2k with you digging the hoolio. Fit £400 pumped electric showers ( 5 x £400 = £2k ) which need gravity cold water tanks and plumbing to each shower to drink from ( £1k ). Subsequent additional internal wiring to get fuseboards done and get juice to each isolator & shower location ( £2k -£2.5k most prob ). Does have integral run timers for 10 / 15 / 20 min duration before shutdown. Cost of energy youll save vs payback = waste of time IMO. What is there now? Is this a new system from scratch ? INPUT !!!!
  12. Nickfromwales
    Not really because when the 2nd or 3rd shower is used the low ( available ) incoming cold water pressure will render them useless, either elecric or thermostatic mixer, both are cold mains dependant. No easy way out here I'm afraid.
  13. Nickfromwales
    By luck, that everyone isn't going to shower at exactly the same time. Plus, they don't do a new install from scratch, instead just adding showers willy-nilly hoping to get away with it. Ive stayed at plenty where the electric has tripped when I turned the shower on, so it's down to luck afaic. Your designing a system to suit, from scratch, so, if it's elecric based, your only option unless you change the UVC to a 4-500L ( >500 is commercial too so whole new can of worms there ) is to get the electricity supply upgraded.
  14. Nickfromwales
    I'm working on it. What electric supply do you have ? 5 showers simultaneously is a big ask. Tank fed elecric showers were the weapon of choice the last time I came up against such a request but with cooking on electric too they had to get another phase brought in from the electric board. Letting them fight over 5 standard electric showers would be the norm but to design a system with 5 showers will need the electrics notifying and signing off. Even with diversity you won't get all that one one phase. This is going to cost a good few £££ so best work out if you want to get on this rollercoaster.
  15. Nickfromwales
    Grouting is the bit some don't do very well. Its essential for a good, solid block and beam floor Imo.
  16. Nickfromwales
    I've always hated the unfinished look of the undersides of wall / bridging units, particularly when the kitchens I've fitted have had polished ( mirror ) granite or marble, and worse when the reflection is fortified by under cabinet lighting. That kitchen looks crisp and sharp. If you made more of those oak furniture items, you could sell them no problem. They look like a lot of effort went into them. I'd have kept them too. Your a fraud though, as your snagging list is just too short
  17. Nickfromwales
    Once you've laid the blocks and 'grouted' they're going nowhere. Just remove any obvious snots / points of the aggregate in the concrete so the beams sit as snug as possible and away to go.
  18. Nickfromwales
    Just a thought. Give the lights to the sparky and say "let me know when your done so I can pay you" ?
  19. Nickfromwales
    Houston, we have ignition.
  20. Nickfromwales
    Would make life a LOT easier if you can. Could you have the JBs on the back of the walls rear facing? Or are they going to end up covered?
  21. Nickfromwales
    Hi and welcome Theres a wealth of info here, just take the time to search and read, and dont worry about resurrecting older threads, its all good
  22. Nickfromwales
    It would be easier tbh, but not by much. Do you have room to fit conduit boxes? One of these with the glands made off however easiest, and the one remaining outlet gets a regular cable entry gland and a short piece of 0.75mm2 silicone or rubber flex ( HO5 or HO7 is cheap enough and bombproof ) to go into each light. TBH I doubt if you'll get the two SWA's into each of those lights, terminated and back out again reliably, whilst wrestling them in and out of the pockets youve left.
  23. Nickfromwales

    Bat update

    Nickfromwales commented on vivienz's blog entry in Blackmore House

    I gave someone similar advice today, just ask, the worst they can say is FO.
  24. Nickfromwales
    Factor in for aluminium spreader plates as the difference is chalk and cheese.
  25. Nickfromwales
    The only issue I see is the difference in slabs, whereas @readiescards slab is actually a thinner liquid screed iirc? These dont tend to hold heat for very long at all, and I doubt that chunking heat in would be as effective as a constant regulated flow would be.
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