Nickfromwales

Give them a chance lol, they've probably only just boiled the kettle !

A Durgo is an AAV. A bit like saying "where is my Stanley knife?" when it's made by Irwin. You don't say "pass me my Irwin knife" .

Thats on my current wetroom job. Right hand 50mm goes to the free standing bath and basin as shown below. The first pic shows the 50mm tee ( for the shower ) with a 32mm branch going off to the new airing cupboard. In there will be a short section of 32mm pipe, a 32mm tee, a 32mm AAV in the top of the tee, and then the boiler condensate into the same tee on a 32x21.5mm reducer. The pipe going down the wall should have been 50mm TBH, as you then get a massive improvement on air break. It'll basically be almost trying to form a syphon as it falls vertically so not the best bit of plumbing TBH. The rule is when dropping like that to oversize to get an air break. Yes, an AAV will allow air in, but not at the tornado rates that you'll be needing.

Very strange. Normally they are user definable. Make / model of UVC?

Agree, but quite a lump she is ( floorstanding iirc ? ) I go for the Vaillant 938 ( wall-hung ) heat-store combi which does two adequate showers, IF the cold mains will allow it, as all instant hot water heaters instantly die off if not getting cold mains priority.

Easy. It's just a flag of PB that's one long stilt for the second course and you don't need to affix it / damage the tanking.

"By jove....I think he's got it !" .

A little abrasive, perhaps? Maybe because a hot water system in particular should be specified to meet the needs and requirements of the both the size of dwelling and number of occupants / DHW consumption patterns. Much as I like a good combi, they're less than brilliant at producing hot water. Plus, in a 4-storey house, if the DHW consumption is high then the space heating would not get serviced sufficiently ( as your probably aware, a combi cannot produce heating and DHW simultaneously, so whilst a hot tap is running there is no output to the heating ) so they're not really suitable for anytging bigger than a 2-3 bed ( 2-3 occupant ) dwelling. After you need more than one shower the combi falls flat on its arse. Stored hot water ( cylinder / Sunamp ) is also a means to absorbing excess PV production, whereas a combi just sits there with a daft look on its face as it burns gas not electricity, so again, not suitable in that situation, ( if you like 'free' hot water for eg ). To say that everyone should suffer a combis poor DHW output is where any madness lays IMO. .

Another £100 down the tubes. ? Give me strength. Use the laser you've already bought !

The only way you'd be able to do that would be if you made stilts to support the second row of tiles as you cant fit a batten with screws unless you screw through the tanking. Also, you may well find that the batten sticks to the tanking and when you remove the battens you'll take a section of tanking with it. As its you were talking about, lets devise a completely long-winded, new, and ingenious method.................. For the wet area and pocket shelves I take it youve worked the pocket cuts so the wall tile is a factory edge against the bottom tile trim leading onto the 3o sloped shelf? Cant grumble, a man after my own heart. So, you cant ( dont want to ) screw through the tanking to fix a batten. How about laying 3 tiles on the floor with the spacers in to get your measurement from the the top factory edge to the bottom factory edge ( or whatever number of tiles gets you to the first grout line etc ), then transfer that to the wall and add 2mm height for the flag of the tile trim, ( go balls out and add 3mm if I were you, as you can just add a bit more adhesive to the 3o tile whereas you cant take it off ). Then get a piece of plasterboard 300mm x ( X ) mm and lay it lengthways on the floor, starting at the 45o wall and running back towards the WC. Get a block and mark the scribe for the fall into the tray. Get that spot on ( like you need telling ) and then, once happy, fire up the laser set at distance X derived from laying the tiles and spacers out. Cut the PB 3mm shy of what you want so if youve accidentally overshot you dont have to pull it all down and re-cut the PB. If you have a deficit in height then its easy you just pack spacers out with stiff cardboard ( cardboard form an empty screw box cut into 1" strips does great, but you could get NASA to laser cut you those out of Unobtanium if you wish ). Once happy that the PB is "in the zone" you then wedge that against the wall ( batten and some deadman studs off the opposite wall? Dont forget to cover the ends with a plastic bag so they dont take to the tanking ), and then you can start tiling up off the PB. STICK TO THE SLOW SET ADHESIVE AS THESE WILL NEED TWEAKING. Use 3 spacers per tile so there is no risk of the weight of the ascending courses pushing the spacers into the PB. Tile 4 tiles wide and go up to meet the pocket shelf. As you complete each horizontal course lay a 1200mm level across to see what needs tweaking to horizontal. It won't be perfect because your off a scribed PB so you really do need to check each course and adjust as your going. VERY IMPORTANT TO GET THE FIRST COURSE OFF THE PB PERFECT ! Once at the shelf reveal, chuck the CliveMaster2000 3o benchsetter against the tile and check with an off cut that you have sufficient clearance ( your tiles are high enough ) and repeat.

Yup. A LOT more. Porcelain is average 0.05% porosity, so basically waterproof. Add tanking into the mix and you can have some really extended set times If you put any Mayonnaise like substance in there I'll flip. Just carry on as you are its fine without any admixes

Justifiable on his timescales TBH

Not with a ceramic tile mate!!

....."I can't believe its not butter.....ed" Laid with a Cobra more like!

You should be able to draw / show examples of what you want and then they should produce a draft for you to approve.

Some come without the adjustable back to wall frame fixings. Be double sure when buying as there will be a breakdown of what's included. If in doubt just post back here .

As long as you've got a dry section to work away from then carry on. ?

The Matrix has him now, save the girl !!!!

I would check around as I have found that there are a lot more products out there than people who know about them. My screeder laid a floor for me 10mm rising to 25mm which he laid on some expensive resin type primer base. Still there today. If you've poured ( assume to DPC ) then how do you have the means to add 35-50mm? Purely out of curiosity.

...............with integrated rise and fall biscuit holder and whacka-plate mode?

And what about after your refund has been safely cleared in the bank?........

You'd try and make a lunar space shuttle if someone asked you to That resin stuff is not for the feint hearted.

What they don't know eh?

Grey = not cleaning every day White = "wtf did I ever think of white grout"

Just pushes more excess out of the groutlines .