Nickfromwales

As it’s the manufacturer that will provide the warranty, ultimately it doesn’t matter what I say so if it were me I’d ascertain the average flow temp ( if the systems working ) and simply run it by their tech guys. For passive it’s a no brainer, but other instances would be for from a quick sense-check imo.

Most thinner screeds I’ve been around have a quite high flow temp to heat the spaces at the worse part of the year. Admittedly they’ve not been passive standard, some nowhere near, but have had flow temps as high as 35oC. It doesn’t actually get that hot at the ‘surface’ but I’d certainly run the system first and see where you are before choosing.

Progress

It’s what we do

Prob “long enough” for him lol.

Wrap them in off cuts of the flat roofing grey membrane ?

Template all the way.

Grey matched silicone = ✅ CT1 harder = ✅✅ Stain the white grout ? = ✅✅✅✅✅✅ Stick with me kid ?

Not a problem on the trims where you can wipe them to nothing with baby wipes, but try an internal angle and not getting it onto the white grout.

Try a bit.

Have you bought the grey CT1? I’m guessing not , because if you had, you would NOT be recommending it for this application. CT1 in the 1mm grout line? What colour? How is the white grout supposed to make a seal against the CT1, or how would you stop the grout so there was a gap for the CT1 to go in the last 1mm? Not going to happen ?? Read back, as I mentioned using the white grout and ramming it under the tile and into the intersections where the grout lines rise. Then I mention using grey silicone. Not inferior when used to your advantage ?. White CT1 goes custard yellow and anything other than clear is the worlds biggest pig to get a token bead with that doesn’t look like it’s been applied by a Wildabeasts hoof. Just imagine the grey over spill going onto the white grout, and from there it’ll be downhill to the booze cabinet. CT1 isn’t available in shades of grey, and the grey they have will look like gutter sealant. To summarise, I’m not a fan of that idea

Apple it is, my old fruit

Just fit them horizontally with the side outlet uppermost, and fit bottle vents to automatically release any trapped air. Prob best to avoid heat rising to the heater base tbh, but can’t really say it would be to any detriment as I’ve removed scores of them ( immersions ) top-loaded and facing down in old copper cylinders. Sealed and pressurised is totally different to gravity / convection flow, so imo you can fit these however you like and they’ll work A1.

You need some of this and bloody soon too !!! https://www.polypipe.com/housing/pressure-systems/pre-insulated-pipes/pre-insulated-coil/pre-insulated-pipe-25mm-x-10m-twin-pipe-coil

Are you serious ? Your heating pipes are buried in the driveway heating the ground ?!?

To clarify, 4m of underground ( under slab ) run before rising up through the slab, or 4m of exposed cable inside the dwelling? If its the latter then I expect them to start whinging at 3m, but if the former then they're just being ridiculous. As Dave says, the guys on the ground are the ones to keep on side with, and when I asked for about 6m of internal cable ( on a gentleman agreement that it would be lost in 400mm of ceiling void, they just said they'd look the other way. They also reconnected all the meters ( job was a relocation of two, and one new service ) which they're not obliged to do either. 3 phase seems to be coming up a lot nowadays with folk having various recommendations for future proofing with EV's and charging. A PITA for load balancing and PV integration though.

Depends how straight the tiles are. If like most ceramic they have a slight cup to them then you may well be better off doing the gap and siliconing. Put some packers down to rest the tiles on and pick the best tiles out of the bunch and see what the results are like. PS, so does everyone else

At least it wasn't a cheesy sausage eh

Nothing not to like there chief. Once grouted it'll be a thing of beauty.

Until checkout where the hidden p&p charges always seem to pop in discretely. ?

The issue is with zoning heat into the separate rooms If one ever turns out to be a bedroom for eg and is smaller then you may have no option of having that room run cooler or warmer. After that theres no problems at all. Plenty of good products out there to bond a sole-plate stud instead of screws or nails With 50mm screed you will need a good degree of flow control as the temp swings will be quite acute. What standard are you building to?

Cash is king. Its xmas time, they may have kids. Argos / eBay gift voucher?

Two in parallel to get the flow rate. Make sure the pipe work from each outlet to the T and from each inlet to the T are equal so they each share the same flow rate ( pipe resistance ).

You can go posh and zone valve them, or you can go caveman and just use a pair of 1/4 turn lever valves. One on the flow from the original heat source and the other on the flow from the Willis. Just swap them both to redirect flow from the pump to the chosen device. 1 may struggle whereas 2 would easily cope with the flow rate normally associated with the 28mm pipe.

Willis heaters, my good man. Inline thermos flask sized water jackets where a standard 3kW immersion heater gets inserted. Bingo. Stack multiples until you get to your required heating input. 2x usually will suffice. Cheap as chips for a simple backup solution. ?