Nickfromwales

Absolutely the right advice. You CANNOT fit the floor and then tile onto it if its anything other than tiles IMO. The LVT will have a limited lifespan, compared to the tiles, so will likely be the first thing that needs replacing eg long before the room needs re-tiling. Apply the brakes and take stock of whats going on Does that mean the floor is just P5 or floorboards? Has it been ply'd? You really dont want an underlay in a bathroom so the floor should be prepped a-la @Stones earlier post. Measure twice, cut once

Guy I picked up gas fitting with actively destroyed the booklet after opening the box of the appliance so there was no 'paper-trail'. I look back and shudder. One of his favourite Ace cards was to open the regulator and allow more pressure through to allow sufficient burner pressure off existing 15mm supplies ( to save a new 22mm run ). Some must have been left running over 30 mb. No wonder he's got a nicer house than me.

Actually illegal as your not the only person residing there so cannot demonstrate that you did the gas work "for yourself only". If they caught him he'd get kicked off the competent persons scheme ( GSR ). Theres been a massive shake up around this, so beware. Its Gas Safe or UNSAFE. No middle ground there regardless of whats said at the pub bar.

Is this a brand new gas burning appliance that has been self fitted? If it’s brand new then it needs to have the Benchmark certificate filled out by A) the installation agent and B) the commissioning agent. Anything less will be an illegal installation and you will also never be able to claim on the warranty. WB do a good warranty but the Benchmark is the first thing they’ll ask for when you call them out. If your looking to stay off the radar then you may get a GSR fitter to give you a ‘home owners safery certificate’ but it’s very hard to find someone to do that these days as the tax and vat man is now actively seeking to prosecute in line with the GSR for cash installs which have just been signed off.

Bird is the word?

Mr Bean style might have worked. Bucket full of tiles, adhesive and boom ?! Job done. Leave for 48 hrs and grout it with a mallet ?

DJ ‘Scratchinmynuttsack’ rides again. “Put your hands in the air if the cream worked” ?

.....of getting your nails and hair done ✌️

In a nutshell. But if you don’t need to cut to connect and test then you could just coil the slack, zip tie and leave them as is. Nope. They’ll kink in a wink of an eye as that’s too much point pressure. Just for general compression I’m thinking but good for first fix if no water / other means of testing after install.

.....I thought to myself, as I instructed my man to cut the excess tail off a coil of Wunda UFH pipe. He cut some more, the noise got much worse. What’s going on ?!? We hadn’t hooked it up yet so a leak was impossible.......and then I twigged. The good folk at Wunda now sell the coils of UFH pipe pressurised with compressed air, and when I say pressurised, I mean pressurised. If you cut straight through you’d better be holding both pieces as it’s like stabbing a car tire ( probably ). They must have it close to 6 or more bar guessing by just how much air came out of a 100m coil. I then noticed the pipe ends. They’ve basically got plastic plugs glued / crimped into each end to keep the pressure up and keep any crud out, and I assume this pre-pressurising benefits in a couple of ways. Wunda know the pipe is sound at dispatch, you know it’s sound when you get it, and if dopy gits with long screws or multi tools inadvertently damage the pipe after installation / floors down etc there will be an undeniable “whoosh” of compressed air to let them know. Can’t help thinking that would also be of benefit during Ufh at the slab stage too as the pipe is likely to be a bit less susceptible to compression perhaps. Folly, or first class. ?

Neither of you used the word 'tool' though. ?

Son of a...... The dual system is what I’ve been looking for, for hot + hot return ( 22mm+15mm or 15mm + 10mm etc ) in the same insulated runs. Even if it’s expensive it’ll make a cheap alternative to lagging 250m of 15mm by hand You can get a lot done in a day with that stuff. ? Cheers.

Never heard of it. Wassat?

Ive got a drum of 6.0 ( 50m ) and a drum of 2.5 ( 100m ). Wonder what they’d fetch ?

Cheers. Going to need a couple of hundred metres of it soon. Anyone got a heads up on ready ( pre ) insulated 15mm & 10mm ? Found a supplier and asked for a price on 250 / 500m breaks but I think I’m too little a fish to catch their interest.

Just had a quote for a client for £8200 for a split East /South array iirc 5.7kWp. Solar edge inverter ( 12 year warranty ) and optimisation included, plus costs include extending each panel cable to a central attic space for optimisers, and then dropping to the garage to the inverter. So could be a bit cheaper for a less bespoke install. All black in roof panels btw. 25 year life expectancy ( warrantied ) with the panels. PM if you want details ?

Yup. It won’t use much energy but will make the system far more user friendly. I wouldn’t like to spend on a new system but then have to wait for the hot water to come out of the taps. Youll thank me later ( or send me the bill for the pump lol ).

Order of events; 1) incoming cold main 2) stopcock immediately as it rises 3) double check NRV 4) drain off cock ( DOC ) 5) outside tap 6) PRedV 7) wadevayalikefromthere FYI SA is good for 10 bar but recommendation is a PRedV set at 5-6bar, but most softeners need 4-5bar restriction anyway. Read the MIs of the chosen softener for the correct rating

Cheeky fu.... Its pasty’s or nowt ✌️

Instant solution and within budget Bingo.

Oh, and why the PRedV ?

If you haven’t got an accumulator then don’t worry about doubling back from the ends of the manifolds to feed both ends, that was only for Uber high flow rates Instead, just put the higher flow items nearer the input side eg bath - shower 1 - shower 2 - kitchen sink - basin 1 - basin 2 and so on. ?

Tequila time.

Hi and welcome. You'd be into a heat pump of some type TBH, but I wonder if you'd be better off using a free standing domestic air conditioner and fitting the hot air exhaust to the flexible duct that goes to atmosphere ( so you can get rid of the nuisance heat created by cooling ). Those ducts could be disconnected, extended and fitted to a free standing unit with ease. To clarify, I'm not suggesting fitting the cooled air outlet of the air con unit to the room ducts, just the hot air exhaust, and then simply leave the air con unit cool centrally. Open the windows just a crack and allow trickle airflow outward as that should promote a bit of airflow through the dwelling.

Ok. The one that will burn it like fire is vomit. My daughter threw up over my beautiful travertine and it near destroyed it, in the few minutes it was there before I could stop heaving long enough to clean it up . Remind me why we had 4 kids Pee all over it all day long, its fine, but dont puke over it whatever you do. You heard it here first folks !