Nickfromwales

Load of pink grip and a metal dowel banged in will suffice as a cap end.

As long as it's flexible you'll be fine tbh. ?

Maybe sound deadening mat like they use in cars and under metal kitchen sinks to stop the drumming? Maybe on the back of the downpipes, or are they round?

+1 on flexible.

They should be able to un-install it, and re-do the joints properly. No smiles, no more cash. Tell them to come and take them out if they want to get funny. Tell them if you cant see the joints then maybe the non mono section may be liveable. Lets see what they come back with first eh

Sounds like a proper FUp. Whats written down and signed for re the drainer ?

Now get up on the roof and change that PITA ST AAV ?

Kiln dried softwood will be ample. If you want to go wild, get a 1/4" router and soften the edges with a few mm pass with a round-over bit. Elbow grease and sandpaper will do a reasonably good job tbh, just maybe less consistent. Think upside down, and have the central support going up to the ceiling instead of done to the floor to maximise of the boxes / bigger 'floor-dwelling' items. A lot easier not to be working around supporting XYZ's. To get a decent fix above you may have to prep and paint a full length batten and use that to catch the joists. Then you can drop off that down to whatever needs support any the front. Alternatively consider a timber clad steel / spray-painted alu box section ( 40x40mm ) as the front horizontal 'load-bearer' and you should not need any central "sag mitigation". Just run from that back to the rear wall with slats, and rest those on a batten or alu L-section.

You seem to be doing ok for an independent lady who works in IT

And the rotational force goes onto plastic eg too much nail polish ( lady grunt ) and you'll damage it.

That does indeed look like a professional job, particularly the GRP and the metal work. Pat on the back time I think

If you use a rubber seal and its plastic components, the rule of thumb is tighten it so far and try it, if it drips, give it another 1/4 turn, repeat.

Dont overtightnen it

Once the waters hot, thats it. With PV you can still heat the water via an immersion, and then it can go on to offset your electricity consumption. ST cannot.

In a PH ( or similar ) the argument to go all-electric is very strong. Simple, clean, "elegant" and near zero inspection / maintatence etc. Fortify that with solar PV and its game, set and match.

I would tell them to call out immediately or foot the bill for someone else to come out. 4 days is BS. Any pics of the waste etc?

Does a PV array have to be enormous to compete? Given ST is just a one-trick-pony I done see there being that much argument in favour of ST, unless as I said youve got a swimming pool or a hot tub etc eg a large mid temp heat requirement. ST won't ever charge your EV or keep your beer cold in the fridge

Crap plumbers everywhere are currently bulk buying those ! Previous customer had a £35k bespoke kitchen ( fitters of which couldn't hang a picture tbh ) and they're MD came in refusing to let me near the plumbing, after I'd plumbed the entire bloody big house without issue. Along comes the fitter with a worried look and a blow lamp. Following day, a Saturday morning, the customer is walking around his 100m2 of 600x600mm porcelain floor in flippers Who does the kitchen co ask to fix it? Dry soldered joint. They got the copper so hot it had gone black. Ive not ever heard of or seen these devices tbh, just not sure how to approach a customer and say "can you spend change of £500 fitting this system to protect you against my plumbing in case it leaks?" One for the customer to decide I guess, but I'll certainly consider suggesting fitting one if they're happy to pay for it. I'll bet there will be a mixed response and some ridicule from other plumbers. @lizzie Was this an error on the plumbers side, or the kitchen fitters side?

That should be fine, and done in copper too. If all of those sub floor voids are ventilated then that won't be a problem. They just frown on you having a leak and charging a small cavity, whereas they're not so bothered about the larger ones. Duct from the bottles until the 'hollow void' with the duct sealed the dwelling side, and the other end of the duct visible and exposed to atmosphere. If a leak occurs it'll transport the gas to outside where it can be detected. Remember you only need 15mm, 22mm is way overkill.

Yes, they do like the word "Nano". Bet they don't use it in the pricing

Nice looking house. Great symmetry.

Any particular reason why you are looking at ST as opposed to Solar PV? ST would be great if you had a swimming pool, but after that I'll take some real convening to lay money on that instead of PV.

A tone generator set is what I use.

Im off to find this. any links anyone?