Nickfromwales

Ok chaps. Lets keep this to the facts and leave personal feelings / emotion out of it. I have a gun, and I'm not afraid to use it. ?

Nope. On existing solid walls

Same as yours ?. Shit photo in bright daylight.

He can't hold his beer either.

Yup. I did one and mummified the valve. Then I looked at it and thought wtf. I just did this : first coat of tanking on. Then i tiled it and dabbed a horseshoe shaped dab of adhesive from 8 o'clock to 4 o'clock, and as it's cementitious no water will be getting in there. By the time I pushed the tile on and displaced the adhesive I was sponging it away from the tile edge. Fackin Bombproof.

It's all gravy baby. Amen, reverend. ?

The floor and nearest internal angles away from the main shower area always get done in a wet room. Its to stop water tracking to the nearest porous material ( your sponge-like plasterboard or ply ) and wicking up it slowly until the shit hits the fan. No need for tanking solution on the WC wall, but I’d certainly use solution over the tape to wall junctions. Tanking start / stopping no problemo. Tank all the cement board in the shower area, like you weren't ever going to do that anyway

The generic thermostat blending valves fall over when you ask them to run at low temp. They choke the flow when the return temp raises enough to leave no differential temp between flow and return. You cant blend hot with cold if your cold is the same temp as your flow which is exactly what happens when your up to temp. All gravy whilst your cold and getting UP to temp, but when your there the TBV just goes into meltdown. Many who think it doesn't should sit and listen whilst its running and you can hear them whining and attempting to strangle the flow. If you have an adverse installation which requires a primary circulation pump, then be 100% sure to fit a full 22mm gated bypass to allow flow back to the heat source when the TBV has had its fill. This is as always case specific advice and most are PH / similar, so you really need linear heat influx and the Ivar with the capillary blend set does work like a dream. Absolutely whisper silent. I suspect there are cheaper ones, but the Ivar comes with a top-notch Grundfos pump which is super energy efficient ( >A+ iirc ). £300 with the Vodka and Tonic but money well spent imo, and also has in-built adjustable bypass in the control group so one less bit of kit to buy and install..

You really would have to be careless or malicious to damage pert-al-pex / pex-al-pex pipework tbh. My screeders wheel full barrows of screed over them and tramp back and forth without even a bump. Ive caught the odd numpty up-ending the wheelbarrow onto the pipe, but it just seems to compress the insulation. Flow rates are typically between 2 and 5 lpm as dictated by the weir flow gauges on the manifold. Pressure can be near zilch, or up over 2 bar and I cant honestly say ive ever heard an ufh pump tbh they're almost silent. If the manifold is between 5 and 9 ports you'll be on pump setting 2. Id recommend the Ivar Dualmix pump and blending set, coupled with a Wunda manifold. The Wunda manifold is telescopic so you can adjust the centres to match whichever 3rd party manifold arrangement you bought.

That sounds like a plan.

Yes please. Were still 'introducing' here Definitely needs a thread of its own to get some answers. Select the relevant forum and then copy and paste that into the OP. Raising the ground level up to get rid of damp?.....nope !

Putting AAV's ( air admittance valves ) on the stacks of the house will CAUSE the problem not solve it . Do you have a full height stench pipe on the dwelling ? One that goes to atmosphere ( that you may have then wrongly capped with an AAV ).

One to add to the contacts list. Many thanks for the feedback.

Makita for me mate, try and keep up

Well that narrows it down then Pic ?

What is it then?

Ask them to shutter around them with sand then. You need to be able to manipulate the pipes after install ideally. They'll probably register on BH now and tell me to FO

@Hecateh If you absolutely definitely have the clearance at the door / thresholds etc then 100% chuck all the screed down. Cracking job they're doing. Ask them to sleeve the pipes where they exit the screed and head up the wall.

Sealed needs a G3. The less than dynamic tech support "guru" was quoting me on a Tri-store, which is manual fill eg non sealed / aka open pipe / aka vented. Your plumber will have the manufacturers installation instructions and needs to follow those to stay on track. The MI's are the final word.

If you put the immersion on a timer then it would reduce fatigue on the boiler, but tbh, thats what the boiler manufacturers made it for so its not like it needs any babysitting What type of cylinder do you have? If it routinely runs cold then electricity will work out more costly, but if its a reasonably efficient UVC then it may be worth considering.

As long as the integrity of the duct is good then shouldn't be a concern.

As long as trapped gas can get to atmosphere where it will naturally dissipate then you'll be fine. If that duct end will allow gas to fall to the void below the house then it could be an oops moment.

Which the SDM will kill off. Resonance effect aka drumming. Id put some on the back of the downpipes from top to bottom and try it. Something like this but in all black if possible.

Does it run downhill to outside, and is the duct end open to atmosphere?

Heavier, yes. TBH running it through the garage isn't a bad option.