Nickfromwales

That’s over £20 a slab. Count up how may will go down and make them a counter offer.

Especially not 2 of them ! We have put them in 'CU#2' in a garage with the 2 x 32a breakers spaced with blanks if there is any further significant loads in the line up. They're not cheap so just run the cables for now and fingers crossed. That would be far better AFAIC as if you don't intend to buy an EV for some time then there may be a chance that a charger you fit now in anticipation may be obsolete / unsuitable in 5-10 years time anyway.

I'll fly some across the border with my new 'alcho-drone' ??️

I’ll do it for £94..... +1 ouch.

Pretty much. TBH SA should have strategically hemmed that in as a work around to get these things stuffed to the gunnels. It's an expensive box to have laying around semi-utilised. My workaround is to size above the known requirement, which has not hit a problem on any of my installs to date, and the only issues I've had have been with 'Friday units' not working from day 1. The real bodge solution would be a 6-event / 24hr timeclock ( interrupter ) which bumps the SA every other hour through the daytime. ( IF only feeding via excess PV ). If no diversion, then a dual event timeclock bump at midday, in unison with a strategic timed event for midday top-up boost, followed by a full recharge overnight on cheap rate tariff such as Octopus @ 5p/kWh. Use those as a benchmark and elongate the top-up as required in line with however much more DHW you need to get you through an evenings cleansing of ones "back, sack 'n' crack" Disclaimer. Please omit "sack" as applicable

2 heads always better than one The only thing I don't like about that idea is that you beat me to it. Indeed, a plan is hatched........but still bloody 'orrible stuff to cut lol. Credits to the original author I'll get him next time......

Anhydrite has a residual laitance which needs to be removed over the entire area if bonding ANYTHING to it. Bedtime reading. Dry screed or possibly liquid concrete with small aggregate for me. Are you on gas or ASHP?

Plus no G3 or annual service / inspection nonsense that you have with a cylinder. Of course, everyone “forgets” to spend £100 a year on somebody to stand for 15mins stroking their chin and constantly remarking “nice job, that.....”. Good luck when you go to claim on your warranty, and even better luck when something pops at full mains potential and floods your nice new house because there’s no expansion pre-charge left in the expansion vessel ??

Exactly what space do you have, and what exactly do you need to achieve in terms of water delivery and how you will heat it? Electricity only?

Completely negligible. You just don’t need the higher performing thermal quality of the PIR, but you certainly WILL need the acoustic quality of the acoustic rock wool. The rock wool ( at 100mm ( not 50mm as the PIR would be )) will have more than ample thermal insulation for this upper floor. Not sure what others would add, but maybe a foil on top of the plywood baffles would ‘reflect’ any downward heat back up. I’ll get my tin hat ready......

It’s more than likely that water has got onto / into either the pcb or the gas valve. Turn off the gas at the meter and get a hair drier in the case on fast flow / medium heat for an hour or two and retry.

Logistical ball-ache, plus you’ll still have to incorporate breaks in the screed for expansion anyway so 6 and two 3’s tbh. Screeders are used to laying screeds in whatever spaces are there, and they will typically use a 8’ or 10’ bar max normally as anything bigger is physically problematic to use by hand.

You do that regardless, to stop contaminants entering ( and later blocking ) the pipes, but yes, get them taped off, not capped off, instantly after installation.

At 300 c’s 18mm will be ample. ? Pointless using PIR as you don’t need the elevated insulation quality, but worse still is it is pretty much acoustically transparent. If it was my house, it would be acoustic batts. Also, the PIR is a pig to work with by comparison, and the dust from cutting it is horrific in closed spaces.

Doesn’t need to be a Landlord certificate, just a gas safety one. They’re pretty much the same form but just mention owner vs agent respectively which may be of relevance if not renting / letting out? If it’s a full new rewiring installation then you can just get clarity from the issuing body. For insurance purposes you need to be 100% sure that these definitions are correct. Or say nothing and cross your fingers.

Even in Arctic conditions, they would be fine as long as the pipes are taped and not capped off with a tightly sealed fitting. They need to allow air in and out for expansion. After that just make sure the pipes are fixed so they can’t become kinked at the slab. It’s VERY easy to kink them if they’re pulled / pushed on ( but conversely it’s very hard to damage them otherwise ). Blow down one and see if you can easily do so, and that will tell you that no water resides in them.

Years or R&D identifies that type of issue and then you design that out with strategic mitigation.

The Gas Sate Register is part of a ‘competent installer scheme’ and therefore IF the installation was registered you could simply ring them and ask. I would speak to the installer first, and explain how you wish to proceed, as they may well not want to head off ‘down that track’. There is no grey here, just black or white. They did complete and register the Benchmark certificate & notify the GSR of your install / or they didn’t. If they’ve left ANY gas burning ( lethal ) appliance on and functioning then they have put themselves in a very compromising situation. Not many GSR fitters would ever allow themselves to become so exposed / liable, so hopefully this is just poor comms and all is in order.

It’s subsequently garnished with 4 ( iirc ) status led’s, so, depending on the accuracy of what they depict, one can assume it’s definitely a good thing. Better than the original offering of grey-box-sat-on-wall-fingers-crossed-it’s-doing-something......... It still cannot live up to its claimed reputation for absorbing any and all ‘potentially otherwise lost’ / excess PV input etc due to the fact that it cannot absorb ANYTHING until it’s crudely scaled controller decides that it is wiling to allow it to do so. As proven here, and seems apparent in the new installation / user literature, it will always have a potentially huge empty void which cannot be filled when there is space to do so. I can’t help thinking that there is a better way for SA to ascertain a level / state of charge, but maybe the commercial incentive isn’t there yet to provoke further investment in this pursuit. Just my opinion, and can be taken with a pinch of salty yogurt.

Fit a combination or CO detector in there if you have a gas burning appliance. Post a pic of the document you have, but please cover any details of 3rd parties.

Salus stuff was the cheap / nasty end of the scale, but recently they seem to have improved their offerings. I would ring their Uk tech support and ask them which of their newer offerings has a non mechanical relay option, and is suitable for your application. You’ll need to tell them the current model that you have, so they know which voltage ( or volt free ) rating it is.

I still prefer a buffer / hydraulic separator to allow the ASHP to ramp up to max without having to worry about what the final heat load is. My 2-cents is you have the right configuration ?

Forgot you’ve got giants hands lol.

Pivot doors are the anti-Christ. Avoid like the plague. Depends on dexterity, but if you choose a slider with a big D shaped handle that should be robust, trouble-free and not leak one drop. Can’t speak for easy clean results as I typically fit these and then bugger off to the next job