Nickfromwales

Prob living on the fact it’s a lot thicker

Polyethylene is not UV stable.

That buffer only comes on when ‘heating on’ is selected and the heating is running, yes?

Welcome. Build method? TF / ICF / Other?

Does the house stay at an acceptable temperature throughout?

Hi. The stat you have employs a mechanical relay, with moving parts. What you need to search for is a stat that uses either triac's or SSR technology ( solid state relay ) to get rid of the click from the moving parts. My Siemens room stat is silent in operation, but just connects to my combi. What wiring / controls system does your heating have? Heatmiser / other?

This will have adverse warm up times regardless of the approach, but no UFH has a very quick warm up time TBH other than UTH ( under tile heating ) over insulated backer boards. I think I would still employ a structural deck first in any instance and I have done similar, many times on previous projects with 1st floor rooms over pozi-joists. The build up was; Posi joists at 400mm c's UFH spreader plates with 16x2 pipes, 2 pipe runs run void 22mm P5 2400x600 T&G deck board, D4 glued and screwed minimum 5 fixings per 600mm joist > board contact area 6mm plywood, PVA glue combed with a 3mm tile adhesive trowel for 100% bonded coverage, and also screwed at 120mm c's with 25x8mm screws Tile adhesive and porcelain tiles. Only complaint I had from the client was "how do you turn it down?" You're already at the upper-most part of the heated envelope so I doubt that space will need much in terms of additional heat input ( unless it's an old / poorly insulted and draughty building? ) when the heating on other floors are likely to also be running, so my approach would be to fit plywood baffles with the upper-most surface 115mm below the top of the joists. If following B-Reg's ( or not ) you may well have to install acoustic insulation batts to stop foot traffic / other noise from emitting downwards, so use that to kill 2 birds. I'd sit the 100mm batts on top of the plywood baffles which would leave a ~15mm gap at the top ( between the top of the batts and the top of the joists ). The spreader plates would then sit atop the batts and be slightly proud / distended upwards due to the plates being 2mm > 16mm > 2mm so ~20mm overall thus setting the plate upper surface ~5mm above the joist top level. Gluing and screwing the deck boards down will force the plates into the insulation and maintain surface contact between the plates and the deck boards, which is critical for anything resembling good heat transfer from water > plate > deck > room. I always screw and never nail, and after 23 years plus with zero complaints of "squeaky floors" I will be continuing to do so. You will need higher flow temps in the upper levels, vs the ground floor for eg, so you must make sure that for each discipline you have a manifold and blending set to suit ( so you can define the different flow temps to suit each floor ). Some will fit a manifold on the 1st floor and then run pipes down to the ground floor if GF space is at a premium, but that will not work for sharing the same flow temp between the ground and 1st floor from a single larger manifold, so a manifold per floor is the benchmark so you can adjust / fine-tune these flow temps, per floor, to suit.

That person, I’m afraid, is you. Others will spend on your behalf, sometimes on their behalf also, but always with your money. Sometimes they’ll have spent it without asking, and then just give you the bill, which will then be due in 7-14 days. QS the job yourself. Use that QS report / breakdown to get contractors to understand what is expected and what is available budget wise, and explain to EVERYONE that no extras will be paid for until known, agreed, and that the particulars agreed have been adhered to. That will serve both yourself, and the people working for you ( at any level ), extremely well indeed. It will be mutually beneficial and assure contractors that any extras they are asked to do are easily identifiable and quantifiable, ergo they’ll get paid according to what they’ve done. Get the fabric and essentials done to a good standard, fit cheap kitchens and simplify bathrooms, leave them until last, and if all has gone well you can retrospectively add to the budget for those accordingly. Welcome to the forum, and good luck with your first build. ?

1000%. Just plumb it in and worry yea not. If you’re super worried, run it in 50mm so you are guaranteed an air break over the descending fluids.

A good 4” of space gained?

I couldn’t imagine a bigger ballache / logistical nightmare tbh. You can’t ( shouldn’t ) cut into the SIPS face materiel either as they form racking strength, so any f-ups in the PIR core means abandoning that and surface mounting anyway. ( Also you can’t run cables in insulation without de-rating the breakers or upsizing the cables ( a lot ). ?.

Can't really argue with those prices, just DIY is where the savings would be, plus if plaster-boarding anyway, buying thinner ( cheaper ) frame material and retro-fitting with insulated PB would ba another way of killing two birds with one stone. However, just buying one increment up on those SIPs prices to achieve the same result and fitting PB to those ( prob over a service counter batten to allow for electrics etc ) seems a more straightforward direction. Buy insulation once, reduce heating bills forever I'd still be and advocate of A/C though, for both heating ( which should be negligible in this type of structure ) but more importantly not to cook to death in the summer ( a surprising amount of nuisance noise comes into my 'office' from just cracking open the moderate sized window ( which I have to shut to hold a business conversation ) so be mindful you may not always be able to keep the sliders open all of the time )), but I don't yet have the acoustic batts in the roof void which may help there too. I ran Cat 6 out there too, 1x for external WiFi AP which I mounted on the external 'office' wall ( so the garden now benefits from a very robust WiFi signal ), 1x for the desktop, and 1x for the network / internet printer. You could just get a cable from your existing BB router and take it to an external AP ( like a Ruckus heavy traffic unit ) and hook everything up to that. Depends on your dependency, but a hard wired cable from the desktop is way better than wireless.

Why the hatred for extraction? I’d want that to get cooking smells out, plus any excess heat / steam / humidity when doing the Sunday roast. Otherwise that’ll find it’s way into your nice shiny new home....... Id go in the ceiling and either duct out or punch out through the roof. Shortest route is always best.

Will that satisfy BRegs? Extraction needs to extract.

You cut out that pipework at the right hand corner where you can get to it. Then you got that angled union. Then you dry cut and fit the replacement pipework, then solder it away from the boiler, refit, solder the fitting at the right hand corner and job done. C’mon, four fat snakes ??

Are you looking to DIY or are you going for SIPS so you can have it made and erected from the comfort of the pub bar? I’ve done a 6m x 3.6m timber frame man shed / home office and stick built it with 4x2 walls and 5x2 rafters. Racked internally with OSB3 and same for floor. Uninsulated metal profile roof ( 6.3m long, one piece sections so no joints ) and it was cheap as chips to put up. Plenty of budget left to have the remaining voids full filled with PIR vs paying for SIPs ( but I’ve not bothered as I’ll just make it draught-proof and live with the occasional running costs of a cheap £200 split ASHP I nabbed off gumtree a while back ) and then you could also fit insulated plasterboard internally to stave off cold bridging through the studs. You could also make the walls 5x2 and the roof 6x2 or even 7x2 to allow for more insulation, if you will spend a lot of winter in there? Deffo go for the split air-con, as in the summer it will be roasting in there. Mine is nigh on unbearable, so the split will be a lifesaver for me as I’ll be working on stuff as well as ‘at the desk’. So lazy boy or DIY? You can save some serious money with DIY.

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The timer module is a bolt on iirc, had to buy one when I bought an ICON for our WC. Alternative grille down facing and no ‘flap’

Just think if you want to have to have that window for ablutions, from a security POV and also a practical POV. If it’s p*ssing down with rain and blowing a hoolie then you’ll not want to have the stink blown into / through the house would you? Look for a fan with an auto shutter ( do NOT use a back-draft shuttered one as they chatter and clap on windy days plus they will allow heat out / cold air in 24/7 ), one good unit is an ICON. Not somewhere to save money imho.

Just to add, the reg also covers cables run above false ( suspended ) ceilings. These are the biggest risk as folk just keep adding behind those Willy-nilly until you end up with a cross between a spider web and a birds nest !!

Errrr, a petrol / diesel genny? Carbon monoxide works well indoors !!!

Using the PTFE cord I linked earlier, you use the reducing bush that’s already there, and swap the angled union from straight to angled. You just keep turning until you’re happy it’s wound in sufficiently, and stop when pointing in the right direction. It will be pointing back, not up, so he can reduced the amount of ‘poky-outy’ by cutting the existing final bend off and chopping in a new one behind / in line with the boiler Plenty of cord, plenty of pipe jointing goop to lubricate, and jobs a good’un. Don’t listen to him @Onoff, he’ll have you wearing a skirt next

We use powder coated all round band routinely, more to keep the main trunk runs neat and tidy than to comply with regs, and mostly in new builds with pozi joists. Regs see a mechanically fixed ( screwed ) and plastered plasterboard as 30mins fire rated and also as a means of satisfying the arrest of falling cables. AFAIK the reg exists only fir surface mounted wiring ( where the “containment” is plastic trunking / conduit ) and then you must employ metal clips at X intervals, to reinforce the use of plastic ones in between, and in trunking you fit a metal C clip before the cables go in, mechanically fixed ( screwed etc ), and then the clip is bent to grip the bunched cables before fitting the lid on. To drill through the top or centre of joists complies, and even under-slinging in the counter batten space complies ( if boarded over / PB mechanically fixed ). With pozi joists you can run through perpendicular and rely on the web spaces where the metal webs form a gusset to comply ( even if no PB is present ). The reg also only asks for this in areas deemed means of egress / escape, so can be filtered to suit. I prefer to see heavy ‘looms” banded regardless, and we fix all the bands at locations where the cables turn 90o or spur off from the main trunk runs, and again where we run parallel with the beams eg where noggins could suffice but the bands look neater, and then you are only dealing with one discipline too so easier than cutting and fitting timber IMO. For under-slinging as you suggest, I would just use plenty of the newer metal T/E clips to sleep easy. You’re going to have to clip so may as well use FR clips

Agree. But, to keep it ‘as is’ you can just get an angled compression 1”x28mm male union, so you’re exiting the boiler parallel. Never surrender.

All the older boilers had the options of left / right flow and return.