Nickfromwales

100% do not drop the manifold below the UFH loops. The flow rate is a trickle, circa 2-3 litres per min is the average, so unlike mains pressurised hot and cold you’ll never vent the air out. ?

Not quite. I have found that there is a slightly higher flow rate with higher temps, strange as it sounds, and as the heat loss is slightly higher at higher temps they seem to work fine when not set to minimum. More plumbing voodoo for you FWIW I do not fit the conventional blending valves any more, and instead I'm sticking to the Ivar kit as posted above. So much easier to commission and far better degree of temp / slab control vs the conventional types. They do not rly on a return flow to function so are IMO a no-brainer. For higher temp / mid energy consuming installations the conventional type should suffice, but if the target flow temp is at or very close to the lowest setting of the TMV then you shoud change types to mitigate against this problem.

Wunda sell their pipe pre-pressurised and cap ended. I don't know what pressure they do it to, but I cut into one and nearly followed through. Good idea.

Its running too close to its stated tolerance IMO. When the return temp gets close to the flow the valve tries to go into 'anti-scald' and squeezes partially shut. That's where the noise is emanating from eg the water squeezing through a nearly shut valve. Open the valve up to 10oC more allowance and the noise will stop temporarily, but then will start again when the new flow temp is achieved and the return catches up.

It the shitzen hits the fan, it's one of these you'll need to replace it with.

Its because the flow temp is set too low for a conventional blending valve, and the return temp is coming in at a point where the acceptable ratio for hot / cold is outside its acceptable working parameters. When I say too low, I mean you need it to be that temp as opposed to you using it incorrectly, and the only real cure for you, short of changing the pump / blender arrangement will be to turn the pump down to its lowest setting and seeing if that will still have acceptable flow to the floor loops ( eg it'll still maintain room temps ). The flow gauges will drop off but you'll still get flow, so don't automatically think it wont work just run it and see. Turn it down, run it for 48 hrs and report back here

Agreed. Is there any writing on the body or head of the white cap?

Warm up time is easily managed by setback / advance of heating on / off sets points, so don't get hung up on those. The issue is with folk who are not conversant with these 'technologies' stating Chinese whispers and causing undue worry amongst folk who hang on those 'professional opinions', howsoever generalised ( or even flawed ). If you are building to a good standard ( our UK building regs are utter ? so please don't go by those ) then your home will never actually go 'cold' ergo your 'warm up time' is massively reduced because the heating has far less work to do to get you back to your perceived comfort temps. How far the house drops to between comfort events is easily managed by deciding how 'cold' you're willing to let the house drop to and setting the setback ( aka economy ) temp accordingly. Look at it as "how hot and when" as opposed to "when will the heating switch on or off" where you set comfort and economy temps to be maintained rather than times for the heating to come on / go off. This only needs to be strictly observed for ~4 months of the year in reality, so base your decisions on that If they use proper Pex-Al-Pex pipe then you'll only seriously damage it if you take a hammer to it. My screeders regularly run barrow-fulls of screed over the pipes and then one of them will up-end the barrow on partially visible pipes but still with no ill effect. The stones in the concrete are of absolutely zero concern I assure you ( and I've been here more than once over the last 23 years ). Adding the fibres would be a cheap assurance and will be of no detriment, but they're usually only used in a non-reinforced slab where the mesh isn't present, to avoid cracking. You'll be fine.

Prob just an airlock then, or a mixture of that plus semi-knackered tap.

Makes all that digging worthwhile. Basements rule!!!

Any specific areas predominantly populated by blond volley ball champions? Purely out of curiosity.

One assumes Ian would have had to have planned in advance, structurally, to have tea and biscuits out there ? And probably have planning too. @recoveringacademic, the horizontals...…..are they staying one-piece or stop / starting? One assumes that adding the verticals in to suit would be far simpler. Or do I have the wrong end 'ut stick?

I mitigated against that by being involved from early on in the build eg before it was even started. A few penetrations needed to be made in the main steels, so that was all pre-planned on annotated CAD drawings to / from the TF supplier. Other key penetrations made at that time were for small bore plumbing, and a few letterboxes for the main drag of cables. Worked a treat with just a little fine-tuning here and there.

Or hose to a spare outside tap which gets you backwards to 1/2"

Chuck a hozelock fitting onto the end of the hose and that gets you to 3/4". one of these screwed into the HL fitting some barrel or other then one of these ?

Just go and buy them? A hell of a lot easier and quicker than digging all day ?!? What about a suction pump and try pulling the blockage back to you?

To be brutally honest, I would first work out what you'll spend and what you'll ACTUALLY generate and do some maths. It doesn't sounds as if this array is going to produce a huge amount of power plus it'll have degradation ad service / replacement of inverter(s) to factor in. The sums are often quite difficult with smaller arrays, and become questionable altogether if not 'south facing' with zero shading etc. What is the actual pitch / orientation and how many m2 please?

FWIW, I would avoid the larger bore series run systems ( personally ) after seeing how ducts and soil pipes would become quite problematic at junctions / crossovers ( eg a crossover would be near impossible ). Doubling up to 2x75mm ( 82mm O/D iirc ? ) to single inlet - extract point / locations are seems excellent insurance against audibility at high / boost rate. To better clarify, on the current project we have put a single outlet either side of the large living area with a single duct run to each outlet, where the alternative could be to run 2x ducts to one 'double-barrel' outlet ( all outlets were supplied with the ability to connect 2x ducts to a single outlet, with one open and one with a factory fitted, removable blanking disc which you remove and dispose of to connect 2x ducts to 1x outlet ). Putting multiple outlets with individual radial runs to each is favourable if that's is feasible, as there is a better spread of lower airflow over the whole space vs one double-barrelled outlet trying to do the lot at one point / location within a space. One person I spoke to was advised by a reputable MVHR supplier to beef up their posi-joists and go for a large bore series system. Naff results, difficult to balance ( as reducing at the last plenum slightly increses flow to the plenums upstream and vice versa ) and an uplift in cost for the posi's of over £4K !!! Plus then you have the constraints of rigid ductwork, so when your posi's are in, you cannot traverse the house perpendicular to the joists without introducing lots of cuts and joints. No ta.

@Russell griffiths, if it gets anywhere near hot enough to do bacon and eggs I'll be straight round Chuffing diet is the word DIE with a farking T on the end of it.

@Ed Davies In your earlier post, were you referring to firing electricity directly into the SA immersion, eg bypassing the SA Qontroller ( that's not a typo btw )? That is not possible, and would void the warranty. The immersion heater is directly in contact with the PCM, so as the immersion offers very concentrated heat and the PCM gets heated from 'frozen', there is a cold-start protocol embedded in the Qontroller which pulses heat into the immersion until ( I believe ) the lowest thermistor registers heat. At that point the immersion relay is allowed to go to the 'constant on' state and fire all available power into the immersion until the unit is fully saturated aka the PCM is fully molten. The reason for this cold-start feature is that the PCM would get overheated locally by the immersion if driven directly, whilst the PCM is frozen, and it would then suffer terminal damage as the PCM is intolerant of very high temps. The cold-start is only ever activated when the unit is nearly 'empty' or has been fully depleted, so not an issue when the unit is part used and then topped up ( yes, I know ). I have commissioned a number of these to date, and a good few have needed the over-heat stat ( that @Barney12 reports is still annoying him ) resetting a couple of times from the get-go. Touch wood, none have since tripped as I would soon get to know about it! I'm reasonably sure the one causing the nuisance is a quick fix, and its a shame that SA haven't been in touch to arrange a service callout / repair accordingly.

Try smelling the motor after the first couple of hundred and come back to me

I bought the Makita oil filled gearbox version of the new brushless impact and its absolutely fantastic! Not cheap at £150+ VAT naked, ( CNS power tools online is one of the cheapest ), but after stealing mine for an afternoon one of the plaster boarding gang went and bought one straight away. Chalk and cheese mate. I wouldn't dream of using my combi for punching screws in all day unless they were small and I needed torque control. The oil filled Makita is a dream, and I've got tinnitus from years of clubbing and DJ'ing and with my standard impact I have to put ear plugs in. No need with the 'quiet' one. I suggest you try one and I think you'll change your mind. Variable speed is really effective, and makes setting single / loose plasterboard screws ( without smashing though the board ) a doddle. I'm set for life, and would never go back to a normal impact TBH. The chippy on the current site has a DeWalt impact and it's like my teeth are being rattled out of my head at 50 paces. 110%. This new one puts 150mm screws in for fun with nearly no user effort. As with all tools, the correct, quality bit in the drill is paramount, otherwise you struggle. Don't skimp on spending on good impact rated bits ( standard ones just keep shattering the ends off ).

Yup. Can be sprayed now and left to do its thing so you don’t have to stay there breathing it in. No worse than WD40 either iirc.

As a gesture of goodwill, I can do the whole thing for £10,995.00

Tidy, cheers. As that's a basin the cold may also be gravity fed. Do as I said and try to force cold back up the hot, and if that doesn't work ( after a max of 30 seconds of 'reversed flow' ) then the issue may well be a cream-crackered tap. Does this match the bath taps? If so you'll need to get the cartridge out and get new replacements or you'll have to change both.