Nickfromwales

I'll be up for another BBQ shortly

It should really be a Y-branch to promote flow towards the...... ....."inspection chamber" aka manhole. The difficulty may be getting a Y-branch in and the subsequent 135 degree single socket bend then required to rectify back to vertical to accept the WC connection.

and a cheaper example; VS £110 lol. eg

+1 on the OSB doing nothing. It may even make things worse.

The JG Super Seals do. 2 o-rings that are on the stalk of the insert, and one around the large rim of the insert which seals to the inside of the fitting itself. They're just quite thick walled vs the slim Hep stainless insert but are pretty good as far as sealing is concerned.

If you'd seen as many of these coming loose as I have, you'd never not fit them, ( regardless of the manufacturers statements ).

I think 6 and two 3's TBH. What is the cost difference? If negligible, then let your preferred tradesman choose his own weapons

It would come with the UFH manifold not the ASHP

Most are capable of a minimum of 55oC ?!?

Get a new installer.

You MUST fit the channel onto a wet bead of CT1 / clear silicone ( I only use CT1 for this as silicone has a limited life ) otherwise water collects inside the channel and will find its way between the wall tile / panel and the tray and soak into the wall. This has to be the most common F up I see on a lot of jobs, mostly insurance claims after it's gone rotten Offer the channel up dry and hold it in place, level, and use bits of masking tape as runway markers, mark and drill holes, clean up drill dust and then set the channel aside. Then apply a generous bead of sealant down the wall ( between the masking tape so you know you have the sealant in the right place ) all the way down onto the tray, and then put a line of sealant across where the channel will sit, over-sizing that bead by about 5-10mm either side, crossing the vertical bead, and all whilst still wet. Fit the channel as above, wipe off excess at the channel / tray intersection, and then clean the wall / channel with wipes until all excess is removed. Seal the channel outer edge to the tray by rubbing a finger full of sealant on the inside of the channel and then the outside, and then clean up excess on the outside only. That will stop water getting behind or outside the channel, but will allow it to seep into the inside edge and run into the tray. Install the seal on the outside of the glass and do not silicone / other anywhere else. Leave for 24hrs and try the shower for leaks. If the compression seal is good that should be it, and water will get into the channel on the inside, run down, and out into the tray, as intended. You can seal the inside of the glass if you want to, to stop the worst of this happening, but you'll need to stop 5-10mm from the bottom to allow any trapped water to escape. I'd try it first and only seal further if required.

+1. Heating the bathroom with electric UTH ( under tile heating ) will be bloody expensive to run! Have the UTH by all means, but not as your primary heat source.

Yes, some find the Grundfos noisy but I think they must not be turning them down to the lower setting. They get delivered set to run at max IIRC for purging / commissioning so need to be set up properly for the particular duty.

Good. Ask them if they can do a screeded pitched floor and do away with a lot of the expense. All you need then is tanking and a waste / trap. Give them the money you would have spent on the tray, and I assume you'd be screeding anyways so 2 birds ( lol ) one stone.

I thought it was 'all' of them

NO and NO....it's what holds the ring with the teeth in place!! ? Without that you'd better have good buildings and contents insurance. It ONLY self tightens when the fitting compresses itself back against the flat shoulder provided by said "irrelevant twisty bit". The barrel inside the fitting is parallel edged, NOT tapered, and nothing in there is self-tightening. I suggest you buy one and take it apart and see for yourself before offering any further assumptions. Better still, ring JG and ask them how 'irrelevant' it is and get it straight from the horses mouth, or maybe they can save themselves £m's of wasted parts and labour adding it for no reason and do what Hepworth do...... They will tell you how important that 'twisty bit' actually is of course .

You offering to go there and do it? ? If not, then who is? If you can do it yourself, then yes. If not, then is it 'really' a nice quick job? @canalsiderenovation, how brave are you feeling, and how much of this are you willing to DIY?

https://www.dkb-elegance.co.uk/details.asp?ProductID=9115 This goes together like lego, and you just screed to the top of the former. Easy enough DIY job to get a whopper of a wetroom and you can shape that to suit by cutting the sections. It's either spend the money on labour, or on the product. You're spending money either way, but why not go huge on the shower area and do away with majority of the glass? That'll save more ££. Just fit a 400mm panel on the far right, and square the pointless acute recess off by 3-400mm and cut a tall narrow niche into it with a glass shelf half way for lotions and potions etc with the shower head as far into that corner as possible to manage spray.

Well......they undo themselves...... Almost every instance I see of JG being used nobody has used the clips to stop the fitting from undoing itself. If the clip is used then I assume all is well. Just another component to buy, fit etc and without it the system is infinitely more likely to fail vs Hep2o. Every job I go to that's got JG stuff there, more so with the 15mm than the 22m for whatever reason, I see fittings which have either not been tightened from the get-go, or ones that have moved with heat / cool cycles and are all but completely undone. I genuinely do cringe when I see this and wonder ho much longer they would stay like that before popping off. The do all seem to get to a oint where they stop undoing and just stay there, but Hep just doesn't suffer from these issues at all. Cut pipe, fit insert, push it in and you're done. That's it. They even have a clever knurle on the face of the insert so you can twist the pipe and feel it 'bumping' against the seat of the fitting, letting you know you have pushed it 100% home. Hep for me, and nobody will ever persuade me otherwise. If anyone is in doubt, buy a small selection of both and decide for yourself.

I demand a re-match !!

There is that gem also. With JG.

Yup. The valve is actuated by the TRV style head and that gets its reference via a capillary wire that is connected to a thermo-probe ( which is inserted into a pocket to detect the flow temp after the pump, eg after return water has been blended back in already ) and the TRV head will only open if the flow temp is less than the setting on the TRV head. The valve is normally fully open, so it promotes great full flow rates when the UFH starts up and asks for heat, and only starts to close as the temp set at the probe meets the temp set on the head. There is no 'cold' to speak of, just the available return water and whatever temp that is.

There are 2 options available; 20-60oC or 30-50oC @Russell griffiths You need the 20-60oC @PeterW These drop down very low and are super-reliable too. A standard thermo-mechanical(?) TMV struggles at 30oC and starts whining and strangling the flow the second it runs out of cold return water to use for blending. I've been fitting these Ivar's on just about every project so can vouch for them doing what they say on the tin, and reliably, particularly on low-energy & 'passive' builds. Pump UK Mixing Kit £243.36 inc VAT Ivar Uni-Mix Underfloor Heating Pump Mixing Kit This is a well engineered Manifold Pump Mixing Unit manufactured in Italy, offering excellent flow rates, with an adjustable water temperature range from 20° C to 60° C making this perfect answer when commission the underfloor heating system for the first time and need to build up the heat very slowly and avoid cracking on a screed floors.

Lol, ok, yes you need a tool to compress the grip ring if you wish to demount a Hep fitting. So; Funny that nobody mentions that when you enjoy the tool-less extraction of JG pipe from a JG fitting, the poxy inserts stay stuck in the fittings and then you have to disassemble and reassemble to go fetch it. 30 - 15......new balls please!