Nickfromwales

You and me both

That's fine. Also I'll shoot you in the ball-bag if you try Welcome to Buildhub

What about the day when you don't even have to think about that eh?

Looks fine to me. And yes, I wouldn't bother with the barrier paper tbh, unless it is required for the manufacturers warranty. I'd say you're good to go laying that directly onto the deck you have, eg no additional plywood. FYI, plywood and smoothing compound ( thin / fine grade self levelling compound ) usually only get used with Amtico / Karndean types of flooring, which will show deck imperfections through the surface if not laid on a totally perfect deck Not a consideration or concern with the type of flooring you've gone for. ?.

Hi folks. As a moderator on this forum, I'm not exactly over the moon to see how this is going so far. Hi @Laith J. As an introduction, that was a little short and uninformative. That is what has provoked some replies. An explanation that you'd heard that this was a good / interactive information source would have been useful in your first post. Residence here is a privilege, not an assumption, so we keep this ship 'Bristol fashion' at all times, as I hope you appreciate. Lets leave any assumptions out until it's appropriate to comment otherwise please . All new members are screened before being allowed to join, and are pointed at our T's & C's whenever necessary. +1. Feel free to contribute and ask questions. If you need to check what's acceptable and what's not, drop me a PM and I'll be happy to help. wind....sailing....close..... Back to work everybody !!

Do you have a link for the chosen products? If there’s an underlay, that would suggest you’d be ok to lay directly into the P5 / Egger deck but if it’s taken any rain on and you have ‘dog ears’ at the corners of the deck boards you may still benefit from a blast ( only where necessary) with the belt sander before laying.

Thin Ufh / screed combos are quite erratic in how they convey heat into the rooms. Make sure you put the pipes at 100mm centres NOT 200mm or 150mm or you’ll have horrible over / under shoots ( room goes from cool to hot to cool to hot ) rather than the room staying comfortable. Choosing the room stats is also very important as the hysteresis needs to be 0.5oC minimum. Rotary ( thermostat-mechanical ) are utterly diabolical at running Ufh so choose well or suffer the consequences ?

@MickD How about just feeding an MVHR fresh air inlet to the amp room to push the heat out of the equipment and into the house? 2 birds, one stone. Just feed it in at the bottom and bingo, fresh cool ( CLEAN AND FILTERED ) air input, and as the room would be positively charged you should get near zero dust / infiltration.

Do building regs shift if you have / don’t have a heated slab?

This is the kind of hint people do or don’t get. Thank you. Nick, the data is the HUGE amount of effort that went into the last poxy Brexit thread, and that data has now received more input by this one needing the same effort. Read my last. Trolls and other persistent arseholes ‘rock the boat’ and we simply prefer plain sailing on calm waters. This is a volunteer operated forum, run for the benefit of its members, seed funded by the FMG and it’s also continuously maintained by the FMG in ‘our’ spare time. Any dents in the availability we have to give to the forum are frustrating and time-consuming, and these replies are such dents. Any more ridicule will be unwelcome, and the posts that bring such content will be deleted without further notice or explanation. For the benefit of our members, ongoing decisions are not made by any one individual. Behind the scenes we discuss such things at length and move only when we have arrived at an unanimous decision, as per our constitution. We act according to our own guidelines so as to ensure all ‘reviewed items’ are dealt with fairly. Thanks in advance for your cooperation. Mods.

........you'll just have to take my word for it .

Hi @MickD Your hot water unit ( if I have the principal correct ) utilises Exhaust Air Heat Recovery, so is reliant on heat from the whole house. Just vent the heated air from the AV cupbaord directly into the space immediately outside the cupboard and the heat will be recovered regardless. I'd be very worried about having so much air flow through my sensitive electronics, when the solenoid closes, as that would promote the influx of dust etc in much higher concentrations as opposed to just convection ventilating the equipment via high and low ventilation 'grilles'. Look how much crap builds up on the back of even a slimline TV without such positive channelling of all the dust etc directly past it . Put a coupe of air movers ( 2 x 100mm Papst fans ) in the lower opening and just get a bit of airflow to stop stagnation of the heat, and leave the MVHR and EAHR to work their magic without any intervention. I'm old school and still run a Yamaha DSP A2, but bloody hell it throws some power out!! Was running Kef 104.2's until the neighbours moaned so now run Q65's It's not the same.......

Yes. I do.

This appears, in comparison to our normal traffic, to be a thread of very little value. ?. If anyone wishes to take reference from any posts, maybe now would be a good time to get some screenshots .

Are you putting those inside in the attic? There are some good ready made filter boxes with circular ( 160 / 180mm ) flnges on ready to go. sealed lids with clips etc. Link Might save some work

Fitted loads of it. Solid, robust gear and no wonky porcelain as you get with the cheaper ( chine....... ) stuff.

link ?

Bugger. I don't think you can have a horizontal ASHP UVC. Check directly with Trevor is best. Mention Nick and the forum when you ring him. Trevor ( cylinders2go ) 07939 996940 ?

Been there..... Done that.... Didn’t work.... Created lots OF work ( for volunteer staff members who had better things to be doing )..... Went away..... Not coming back....

Round 2.........

And there in lays the problem. MCS guy can earn more elsewhere, or will just hammer you for the ‘cheek’ of it Where are you? I may have a guy who will help out, ( F-gas & MCS ). Do you stand to get a lot from the RHI payments? Eg do you want all the extra up-front capital expenditure without seeing first if it’s all worth it?

This was the question folks. Can we keep on topic please, as we've already had one train-wreck of a brexit thread go 'bye-bye' and I'm getting an itchy trigger finger already just by the way this is picking up pace ( in all the wrong directions )? I will ask that anyone who hasn't got anything relative to the OP to say, types nothing at all So simple an idea, it's almost perfect. This is not, nor will it become, a 'Brexit thread'. Go to the pub and discuss that over a few Stella's. Mods shall lock this for 24 hours to allow some time for reflection.................."Strike 1"

Other cities are available...........

I routinely fit those switches as there is just no way of determining where a detection has occurred otherwise. They hush, and you can test with them too, great when you have vaulted ceilings. It's a tight fit getting 2 sets of cables into a smoke base, so try and find the last one to connect the cables for the switch as it'll only have a single cable at the moment. Be very careful that all 3 wires are in and tight if you go for one that has 2 wires in it already, and normal practice would be to tug on each individual cable after you're done tightening up to see if any of them just 'pop out' Just remember if you interfere with the smoke detection cabling along the rout through the house, and you bugger it up, you may have inadvertently removed the trigger wire from a lot of downstream detectors, so beware. Test everything thoroughly afterwards !