Nickfromwales

Gotcha. Use a high speed diamond bit to enlarge the holes. Macrist bit is damn good, as porcelain is tough as old boots. example. Use a water spray bottle to keep the drill bit soaking wet at all times. Two person job ideally. Use that to enlarge and then see if the pipes will move at all. 2.5mm on each pipe should be possible. The weight of the shower is supported by the drill holes that you then make to fit the brass plates back to the wall with screws. Fitted loads of these without issue so no probs there.

Why not change to a shower manufacturer that offers telescopic pipe inlets like the Bristan does?

errrrr, ??

No it wouldn't, and don't call me Shirley

So the resolve is what from them?

Also, the 1/2" side of the 3/4" x 1/2" cranked union is flat faced, so CANNOT take the bevelled edge of the olive. That can ONLY be PTFE taped and put into a female brass union and cannot be made off directly to copper as shown in "the bodge" above. Blue Peter badge for trying, but that could just blow straight off with the water pressure alone.

People, stop right there. The fittings in the first pic are what the shower connects to, and the cranked bits go in the bin !! I can only hope that the pipes coming out of the wall are at 150mm centres? @amavadia please measure the pipe centres and post back. .....only IF you need the offset. If the pipes are at 150mm centres then the shower goes straight onto the fittings supplied with the brass backplates.

That was one of my biggest concerns when tiling over liquid screeds. The amount of movement was notable, particularly at the perimeter, and compared to traditional screeds it didn’t exactly fill me with confidence.

Prob best to clarify that in your response given the minefield of options here. Yes, have reviewed and discussed that with screed suppliers for two current projects, and as long as the subsequent layers above it are compatible then there is no mechanical abrasion to deal with. Priming, and the application of cementitious products only thereafter, as it’s just a modified anhydrite, seem to suffice. 15-all.

Mechanical removal of the laitence for one. Then the doubting yourself whether or not you did that properly ( before you lay a fortunes worth of tiles / bonded flooring atop.....).

He’s like a chameleon lol.

It’s like watching your first born take their first steps ?. Such an emotional time for BH as the father.

Lovely house.

Think that means 12mm binder over floorboards, then decoupling membrane. @Godley? If the 12mm ply is over properly fixed floorboards and that has been screwed and glued then you can tile straight onto that as long as you fully bed the ply and butter the backs of the tiles.

Due to the very high number of cracked tiles to fully failing floors that I have seen / had to re-do over the years. I always fit a plywood layer or a decoupling membrane in these instances ( over joists + timber deck ) and have never had one fail. The highest fail rate has been on poorly affixed P5 which has been nailed down, so maybe your diligence with how you fix the deck down prior to tiling / noggins on joints maybe (?) has been the key to your individual success. Others I've come across have at least had tiles which have cracked in the location of the deck board joints, or worse.

You're very lucky in that case.

Run ducts and pull cables in later if possible. If you pull cables in now you'll need to run 10mm2 to be sure you have sufficient capacity. Also you'll need to run the duct / cables to where you can glean, retrospectively, the required amount of current. This is usually from the meter, or cutting into the CU tails at the CU. Thought, and proper planning required here

?

Did the OP state there was work needing rectifying during the comms where they both went their separate ways? • If yes, and the chap didn’t return, make the deduction. • If not, pay the invoice, without speaking to them..... ......because winding yourself up is the biggest waste of time and energy and simply not worth it.

Poetry sir. “As you were”....?

Run a 3-phase cable to one charger and a single phase cable to the other. If 3-ph is available then you can bet your arse that 3-phase fast charging will be the top dog. EV horse boxes will be about with BiPV panels and their own battery packs in the future. So will hover boards, and hindsight.

Will have a butchers later ?

No time to dwell. Get the tiles on !! ?. Top job, and you only had to pull one T*mpon out to get there. Da iawn cariad.

Fart > space suit.