Nickfromwales

Depending on the electrical and wet connections being all complete, commissioning ( eg switching it on ) is down to flicking a switch. The unit will have to have been ordered according to the intended application, ergo the control unit will come pre-selected to the correct 'setting', so it's very much plug and play. Sizing, and selecting the correct 'model' is where the attention needs to be, as many have fallen foul of licking their finger and waving it in the air in the days ( now gone, thankfully ) where Sunamp would sell direct to the public........ 20 minutes is actually more like an hour, per size increment, where you'd need to stay with the unit until it heated fully for the first time. eg a size 6 unit would require babysitting for the first 2 or so hours ( 3kW required for ~2 hours = 6kW input = fully charged from 'empty' ) so you know it runs the heating cycle and 'knocks off' as it should. Plumbing connections should be checked after the unit has fully heated up, as sometimes weeps start after the pipes heat up and expand a little. There are 2 heat exchangers in each UniQ heat battery, so 2x pairs of 22mm connections. If you are using an UniQ for hot water only, you need to parallel the heat exchangers so water flows through both. This not only maintains the 2 HeX's in a wet environment ( copper would corrode a lot faster if left dry as it would suffer from condensation if open to atmosphere, and it would also ebb heat away wastefully ) but then, if paralleled, you'd benefit from a far greater flow rate for DHW too.

Be cheaper to just buy grid electric which has no maintenance, failure or replacement costs attached

@daiking If you can squeeze your rear end down there..... Link ....it can be done and there are products out there for it.

Hi Clive. I'm afraid that is not the case, and have real-world experience of fitting wet heating systems in 'passive' standard dwellings ( so speak from experience ). The heat output from UFH in a decent sized slab is very mild-mannered and very easy to control if set up correctly. You would, for eg, have less overall comfort from a heater that switches on / off vs one that stays at a chosen set temp, plus not having the slab means you cannot load-shift off low rate electricity as you have no thermal storage from such an emitter as the panels you mention. You are a slave to whatever rate of electricity is available at any particular time when you heat via such mediums. Any inefficiencies from the wet system are soon absorbed by the many benefits of it, load-shifting for one, but also a house with a cool / cold floor is not very pleasant in a residential dwelling IMHO, but the panels would have some appeal in other retro-fit situations I'm sure ( where the higher running costs are outweighed by convenience ). In short, you would also end up with "too much heat", locally to the panels, when trying to heat a whole room with them, so 6 and two 3's I'm afraid. We will always have 'thermal mass'.......... Hmmmm, is that Jeremy's drone I can see from my window. "INCOMING!!!!!!!"

100% agree you should have a softener with any SA unit if there is even a sniff of hard water. Why folk wouldn’t put one in anyway to protect the rest of the plumbing is something I find a bit unfathomable.

Have you cleaned out the inline Y-strainer? Of the few I've serviced or replaced ( for an Uniq ) the filters have never been cleaned and were full of carp. That could cause the flow rate to reduce and add to the element routinely running at the higher temp thresholds. I'm not sure how 'linear' the pump / heater modulation is and if it reacts in time, but that could also be a contributory factor.

+1. Radiators will be the only way to get a decent amount of heat into the house in the arse-end of winter, when your retro-fit UFH would seriously struggle. Infiltration will be your biggest killer with every draught removing your hard earned heat and wastefully dumping it to atmosphere, so invest all of your budget into insulation, and draught-proofing, and enjoy a reasonably toasty home. Not unless you dig out the floors and start over again, go draught proofed, and insulate well. A simple home-exercise for you would be to go to the local plumbers merchant with your rooms sizes, ask them to get your BTU/kW per-room requirement, and then cross-reference those numbers with the equivalent W/m2 output of the chosen overly system and see if you think it will cope. Remember that you need to factor in any fabric upgrades, and arrive at a realistic heat loss figure, before moving towards a decision. Measure twice, cut once

?

You can. Aforementioned gadget courtesy of @Barney12, spotted when hawking around his place when he was out.......... I tried all his underpants on too. A bit tight at first, but 15 minutes of deep lunges and they freed up no end. Did I get any thanks? No. Nothing. Some people ?

Good lad. If it were me, and I was were I was, eg were you are....... i) accept a bit of short cycling of the boiler when running the UFH only, but do the following to reduce it; ii) take 22mm boiler flow and return to the UFH manifold ( or 15mm if that's what your plumber ( on his mother's side ) left you with ) and tee off both pipes immediately after they arrive at the UFH TMV, iii) fit a 22mm 2-port zone valve between flow and return ( 15mm reducing sets will fit into the nuts instead of olives link ) iv) set the motorised valve to open when the UFH ONLY is on to give a super-duper bypass, and for it to close when the other heating is on so as to not give problematic bypass. Winner winner, chicken dinner. Don't forget to not do that ok.

The boiler will short cycle, but life will go on. Do you want any more ideas on how to best mitigate, or are you at the "ignorance is bliss" stage yet?

Check this bad boy out.....link UFH ( UTH ) and towel rad in one.

Yup. I took my scabby existing 8.5kw electric shower and hooked up a rainfall head and I'd never look back. Had a client with 2 power showers ( the guy I fitted the horizontal UVC for in the attic, and when I finally persuaded him to go for the bar mixer all-in-one rail, handset and rainfall head, he was chuffed. I had you pegged at not a jot more than 6' 4&3/4".

Nothing stopping you mounting the manifold at the bottom of the cupboard, and then splitting the pump and blending set and mounting that above to make it a double-decker narrow arrangement. Just fit some 1" x 22mm copper to iron adaptors into each of the two ( then separate ) bits of kit, and simply join them back together with 22mm copper pipe. Simples!

The doors were from Novellini . The company rep was an arsehole and the manufacturers literature was incorrect. As I had to get those doors mm perfect to get the two magnetic seals to be parallel, plumb and true, I was less than happy when I discovered that the dimensions in the technical literature were all one size out per line. The 720mm was on the 740mm line and so on all the way through to the 980mm option I chose ( off plan before even starting the room ) which was actually only 960mm when sat midway into the wall profiles. ? Result was the two doors fully opened and sat perfectly at 90 degrees to the walls, and the two magnetic strips sat waving at each other, 40 odd mm across from each other. Peter the Novellini rep in Swansea was a condescending prick and I ejected him from the customers house when he just started blaming me. So, long and short, check what you get BEFORE fitting it so you don’t get screwed over. I think you’ll be ok as you don’t need yours to meet in the middle?

Ok. Stay calm.

50/50?

A tired one lol.

Use meths or similar to clean any contamination / mould release agent off the bottom ( underside ) of the shower tray prior to installation

If water gets that far you’re screwed, tanking or not. Spend every effort on the junctions between the tray and wall, and maybe have a read of of my methods in this thread;

Only as long as the board will go back down to the floor, but not ideal as you'll break the tanked seal. Go with option 1 IMO. Youll also not be able to get screws back at the absolute bottom of the board, so maybe not a good idea at all.

Get on with it then All sounds / looks good from here. If you tank the wall up to 300mm and leave it dry, then fit the tray, you'll need to use cement to patch that wall in after. Mask the tray with insulation tape, so the trowelling doesn't scratch it. I assume you know to peel the protective layer off just enough to expose the edges / top 30mm or so and leave the rest on for the moment?

The aforementioned legislation may still kick your arse then

I wonder how much actually gets enforced? ? Did your BCO ask for ( G3 ) certification for your UVC install?

And don't buy a TS ?