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Showing results for tags 'floor makeup'.
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I hope the attached drawing makes some kind of sense. We are just about to start digging down for our extension. There is fairly straight forward trench foundation and concrete pad. We are planning doing a single pour for both trench and pad. Then a single course ring of 140mm wide blocks (excluding the doors) to build off. 150mm (400mm c/c) stud work filled with Rockwool with the wall and floor build-up shown. My question is about the DPM and upstand on the outside. There isn't much detail on our architect BC drawings and want to check with the collective knowledge on how good (or otherwise) you think this construction is. Thank you! Detailed structure x-section 31-3-21.tif
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I have for the last year or more been assuming that I would have an insulated-concrete-raft floor in my modern bungalow, but I am now having second thoughts. The alternative is to have a timber-cassette floor *. But I have a constraint which is making me re-consider things: height: a ridge-height limit **. Anything that I can do to lower my dwelling's height is attractive as I am struggling to get under the limit. A timber-cassette floor filled with PIR could easily be 200mm thinner ***. The reason I favoured a concrete raft was that I felt a timber-cassette floor may well feel insubstantial, hollow and flex. But… am I wrong? Can a timber floor be made or feel as solid as a concrete floor? For example, would something as simple as a biscuit screed do the job (I have never seen one)? I would be grateful for your thoughts. - - - (* By the way, my foundations will be screw piles. The floor will have no direct contact with the ground surface.) (** And I have a no-dig requirement too.) (*** The build-up of the concrete-raft floor will be 775mm for a U-value 0.10 W/m².k, as follows: small pea shingle 50 mm, Cellcore HX-S heave protection 225, EPS 300 mm, reinforced concrete raft 200 mm.)
