Nickfromwales

I used my Bosch GL80-3 outside to do my man-shed base. Best £360 I ever spent, and has earned its price umpteen times over. Outside in bright sunlight you can still see the beam but only if you use something to create some shade, and use a piece of white card / stiff paper as a background to see the beam. Dawn / dusk is best if you want to use a ‘domestic ‘ laser to set out, but I’d rather struggle with a domestic one that will be invaluable when the interior stuff starts. The DeWalt one is very, very good value for money. ?. Only 2 line though ?.

I've been looking for the same for another couple of jobs, and found these about the most aesthetically pleasing of all of the 'offerings' out there. There are some bloody ugly and 'clunky' ones out there, so I have these ones earmarked already. "Carry on!"

BPC Ventilation iirc. I have images of their offerings on my phone to show customers as they have a few more available than most. There is an opening in the market for flush / recessed units here I think, but not a fan of the type you can see up into, which most alternatives seem to sufferer from. You also cannot have the ‘paper doily’ type ones as they’ll block up with dust me thinks.

It'll LOOK like 15l/min but it won't FEEL like it Have you ever used a basin tap that aerates? Takes much longer to wash you hands ergo does not save water as you're running the tap longer. The reason they do it is to fool you, subconsciously, that the water is running faster, but its not, as a water saving measure. 7.5l/min will always just be 7.5l/min. You can make it look more, but that's all.

Yup. Deffo get the bog seat from the same supplier as the pan. Shapes n colours a plenty otherwise !! Good shout, Woody

Just fit a £2 flow regulator ( restrictor ) into any shower head and you’ll be “saving water” in seconds, without any premium.

Mix them up on nearly every job. There’s only “so good” ( expensive ) you can make a chunk of porcelain .

I think it is near impossible to thermally isolate 1m2 of slab in a well insulated house. 100%

The Ivar set comes with 2 control head options, one does 30-50oC and the other does 20-60oC, you'll need the latter. If you wish to marry the Ivar to a Wunda manifold, there is a conflict of Male > Male or Female > Female and you can't fit the inline ( Wunda supplied ) isolation valves directly. Your plumber will work it out, but for simplicity I just bolt together minus the iso's and put gate valves before the whole manifold arrangement. You can buy the manifold from the same supplier that supply the Ivar set and then it'll all be compatible and will give you the manifold isolation as god intended. Just ensure that it's for 16mm pipe.

You wouldn’t have a 110mm branch just to pick up a WHB anyway so a bit OTT at first glance?

Knowing what size ASHP you’ll go with is a little coarse in deriving a size for PV, as a lot of people will oversize an ASHP so they run at half wallop ( modulated output to match demand ) so they run quieter and last longer. ?

The last thing I heard from this company was that they were exiting the new build sector. Are you retrofitting?

It’s where they rise and continue on to that we need to know. Some pics may help. Whst we need to know is what happens to the 4” pipe from after it emerges from the ground. Please remember that the obligatory vent to atmosphere aka the “stench pipe” ( SVP ) does not have to come from a toilet / other appliance, and can be tee’d off the sewerage system anywhere around your house. The SVP can also be 3” so may look like a down-pipe.

Still have to get rid of the ‘waste’ heat though?

Wunda don’t do an Uber low temp manifold blending set, so you’ll be getting quoted for the thermo-mechanical type which is nigh on useless in a PH. Why they stopped selling the type that is necessary is beyond me, and I’ve petitioned their sales director to sort it......without reply. The ratio of cool / cold vs heated flow are just not available so the valve just strangles itself to death. The one with a thermo-head & probe is what’s required. Link There are a lot of ‘gotchas’ in designing a system for a PH, so read up on Buildhub and save yourself some grief.

How do those cheapo wine ‘coolers’ work? Maybe a pair of those minus the doors / bastardised ? Prob is, to get ‘cold, the byproduct is heat Remote systems seem the obvious choice. I’ve got the same conundrum with a job where they are building on a plot, in a vineyard where they produce champagnes, and want a large wine store in the middle of their PH . Looks like a split A/C unit running at its lowest setting may fit the bill but really have to look at condensation risks, and the quality of the glazing units in the sliding glass wall designed to be a viewing aid. Main issue is that it’ll reside within the general heated and airtight envelope, so a few more nights of pencil chewing before I offer my first thoughts. “What could possibly go wrong?” ?

MDPE is cheap as chips. Run two pipes, one up, one back as ‘recirc’ ?

Yup. Type at speed repent at leisure lol. Tbh I just do it to see if Nicks out of bed yet

We've just done one in an AONB and Conservation, and flew through with planning first time around. 8kW and currently has produced 3.5mW in less than 4 months. No need to have the horrible frames on show. These were mounted in ballast filled 'pods' mounted at an inclination / orientation to maximise production. Client intends to let the shrubbery grow around them but to manage it with regular 'hair cuts'

One of these on the end of the MDPE pipe, and one of these with a short bit of 22mm copper between them. Compression fitting means no soldering. You can get the same in pushfit if you want a zero tool solution You'll need an insert to go into the end of the MDPE pipe, LINK Any pipe lagging ( screwfix are cheap enough but only sell the really thin walled stuff ) as long as you tape all the seams / joints well.

Good news then, you can get a decent, well insulated slab down and use that to smooth the heating peak demand. ASHP will lend itself perfectly, and slab / duct cooling will be a very good friend of yours. 2x the bang for 1x ASHP bucks. ?. Do you have permission for solar PV? Stay away from solar thermal as you’ll have an “all electric house” and nowhere to utilise the excessive amounts of heat ST would give through the summer. The PV would, however, run all the cooling FOC when the thing shining on the roof causing the problems also lends itself to off-setting the costs of mitigating against it. Focus on air tightness, and max out on insulation to suit the budget. For eg, you should be going for a minimum of 200mm of insulation under a HEATED slab. If you can’t get to that standard all is not lost, as at the end of the day the ASHP is a multiplier so for every 1kW used, you’ll get around 2.5-3kW heat out of it. Get an early design SAP / DER and also see if you’d benefit from RHI at all. If it breaks you even on the cost of the install that would be something towards the kitchen . If the EPC is v. good - excellent then RHI probably won’t be significant enough to cover the elevated ( MCS accredited ) installation. Most of my clients have been persuaded away when seeing “the numbers”.

Hi @Canoehq and welcome to the forum. Are you allowed to remove the existing slab / floor and reinstate with new? Bottom line is; can you add insulation to the slab now or will you have to beef that up retrospectively?

That's better. All the kids playing nicely

Utah Saints?

The UFH staples tend to stretch the DPM and then it still seals tight-ish to the staple. Not ever had an issue, but with liquid screed they put a much thinner ( 1200 ) membrane over the lot to keep it leak free. With concrete it's not as much of an issue as the water tends to separate out and the concrete stays put.