Nickfromwales

I'm a married man...….I'll take what I can get ?

I don't actually own a tile cutter, I just got booted off Tinder and ended up here...…..

You stay out of this ok, I think ive pulled

Along with a pregnancy test ?!?

A grand for a cutter that only does 600mm? There is no god...…….. If that doesn't turn up let me know. I'll lend you my 1200mm Rubi that @PeterW borrowed. ? Can fortify that with a Sigma 900mm scribe n snap too ( just bought one as my Rubi started to piss me off ). Deposit is a kidney or other similarly important organ. I'm not fussy, but no appendix / similar.

Wet or dry cutter? What do you actually need?

Chill Winston.... Is there a link to what you bought?

In a nutshell, yes Ask your neighbours and you may get a different reaction ? I doubt you realise quite HOW expensive / obtrusive that kind of installation would actually be..... A WBS is not eligible for RHI so its just a "thing of beauty" which occasionally heats a bit of water. Unless you have a serious sized, part year round redundant TS then forget gleaning heat and just have a WBS that heats the room its in / immediate surroundings and save a shit-load of cash. You'll need a BIG galvanised header tank and then to get that plumbed in through the house to the stove, then install the TS with multiple coils etc and on and on. If the heart really wants it, it'll get it, but the head will likely disagree, along with the wallet

Get some LayFlat JG or Hepworth and it’s nowhere near as a pita as the generic push fit stuff is. I’ve just put about 400m of 15mm through a 2-storey TF and it was a doddle ( with a pair of helping hands ). The flow rate with 10mm is very low, and you’ll notice a house piped with a mix of 10 & 15 will show just how different they are. If you’re going 22mm backbone to 10mm legs throughout then you’ll be fine, but you should choose one discipline and stick to it. Hepworth ( aka Hep2O ) also uses wafer thin stainless inserts so the internal bore isn’t compromised. The JG ones are terrible by comparison and choke the pipe at every joint / junction ?

One thing that's not really hammered home is a log gasification boiler commands an RHI revenue. Much as I think the system is perverse it's there for the taking. If you have wood to burn..... …..that is not sustainable so is not to be considered a source of fuel ………. …...then I would say go for log gasification every day of the week. I have just done an install with a 40kW LGB and a 2600 L buffer tank. The results are staggering, with 2 barrows of wood per day heating a 200 year old stone house ( 3 floors ) which is as energy efficient as a block of swiss cheese. Got the chap off oil, so a projected saving of >£30k over 30 years, a PV install ( 9kWp ) with a revenue of >£20k over 25 years and £12k of RHI off the LGB install. I really like these things now, and would recommend anyone considering setting fire to wood to do so with an LGB. RHI, it's outside the house, and the things are crazy efficient as they incinerate what they burn. You'll need wood....lots of it.....and not just what you cleared or have laying around, so choose wisely. Buying wood is not an option.

Hi @Opki I'm in Swansea. Put the kettle on and I'll pop 'round

What about; One of these Then a piece of chrome pipe into a chrome compression bend?

OK, why 10mm ? Lets start there

Click mode / deco range is brilliant. You can take a 4g 2-way switch and remove 2 switches and replace with intermediate / momentary push / other and it still looks like a generic switch. A1 ?. Rounded edges like MK logic and a very light switch action with a quiet ‘click’ rather than the chunky ones which ‘snap’ on / off. Quite important in a TF house so choose well Big thanks to @ProDave for mentioning them elsewhere ( I found some ‘Twatt’ harping on about them from 2011 onwards )

Yup. My gas hitachi 1st fix doesn’t like long gaps at all, but is a great gun. I have both 1st & 2nd fix guns and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them. The service kit is only £40 odd quid iirc and servicing is easy so unless you’re a roofer / TF contractor you’ll struggle to justify the extra spend on the Paslode. I will soon buy buy an electric ( battery ) 1st fix, probably the DeWalt unless Makita sort their ? out. 80% of my kit is Makita, chopsaw is DeWalt, big SDS and breakers and laser are Bosch. I’ve killed enough stuff to know what lasts so I’m settled on those 3, ( with Hitachi for the nailers ). I have a compressor and air guns too, they are great but will live in the man-shed for my own use due to practicality. I did run my air framing gun off a cheapo B&Q 24L compressor for years without issue, just needed to be running a lot of the time which I think helped kill it eventually. Was perfect for 2nd fix / finish / stapling etc so you don’t need a huge compressor if the work is light.

Agree it would be a bit of upheaval, but it is a cheeky way of getting a little uplift if you've already got an ASHP. My comments are referring to instances when things are still open to change in design, eg before things are fitted, but 'chopping something in' retrospectively can usually still be facilitated with a bit of tenacity.

Not very much if the heat is wet and derived from an ASHP FWIW, I would not recommend an electric unit TBH, as they seem to be less 'gentle' in the heat delivery and a bit more 'noticeable' in the air. Electric units usually pass the set point of the thermostat, with a far coarser hysteresis from a thermo-mechanical control device, so are nowhere near as favourable as bringing in the heat via a wet source.

Then can't you just spur off the flow and return of the cylinder? It would require a bit of nifty setting up, and the installation of 2x 2-port zone valves at the cylinder, but certainly do-able with your current setup IMO. In a low energy / PH you are only looking to reinforce the situation by off-setting the impact of the incoming air temp from atmosphere. Some parts of the year the duct 'unit' ( heat / cool / sod-all ) will do nowt. In the extreme it will cool, effectively, and in the coldest snaps it will raise the incoming air temp to compliment the efficiency of the MVHR. It's a no-brainer to put in the inlet from atmosphere AFAIC, as that's far simpler to implement. It's there to compliment the MVHR H-Ex not replace it

I don't think I'd do cooling unless it was a solid floor eg wood or concrete / screed. I fear carpet may tend to start excessively absorbing moisture and harbouring it. Just my experience from seeing various floor coverings in many homes, and in particular carpet on an original unheated / un-insulated slab seemed to be damp / mouldy when lifted after a life on the cold floor. Do you have MVHR? Have you considered a duct heater / cooler in the inlet from atmosphere to raise / lower the temp of the incoming air, prior to it entering the MVHR unit? I'm doing that on a couple of up-coming projects and should yield great results. On one I've already done, we put heat into the duct heater and it was immediately apparent at the nearest fresh air inlet ( in the bedroom off the MVHR plant room ) so results are definitely there if the sizing / design is done correctly.

He didn’t mention the 4 pairs of socks and 7 jumpers he wears.

So the pipes will be ‘cast in’ or retrofit over the slab ?

??

I tried a Fal in the ruby house t'other night, and after that I recon I could have produced enough compo to lay 5-600 of those bricks. WOW, that is one bloody unnecessarily hot curry. ouch.

Send me your PayPal address and we’ll crowdfund the £7 ok

The whole point of these types of construction methods is to not require huge amounts of energy in the first place Agree the thermal retention is lessened re the walls, but who looks at storing and releasing energy to reduce heating costs in the context you suggest ( "quickly enough" )? In a Durisol / other ICF build, the mass you're referring to for energy stability is typically retained in all of the internal finish / fixtures / fabric layers not the core of the ICF. The 24 / 48 hr time period is what's important, so lets remember that heating up all that concrete in the first place, and then retaining the heat, takes equally huge amounts of energy ( which has to come from somewhere ). Having no requirement to inject that amount of heat in the first place = a low energy home. Add "mass" to add "thermal stability", but you still have to heat it and keep it there against it's will. Whatever kW of heat it emits will have required a greater amount to inject and retain it in order to facilitate that transaction, so concrete may be of benefit in certain targeted instances, but not in general, the same way an insulated passive standard UFH heated slab takes X amount of energy to stabilise it to ambient, then X amount more to keep it at ambint. To get the house heated from it then requires that original energy input plus whatever you require on top to maintain a comfortable temperature, plus losses.