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To me that sounds like the difficult bit. Presumably this wall is brick/block and supports the roof of the house so a steel beam will be needed. Possibly also a brick pier or steel post with foundation in what was the corner?

+1. Most likely they mean a 100mm stud wall with 100mm PIR between the studs. Whole lot set 10mm away from the existing wall. The BCO may not have thought about a void for services, that's up to you. You could use thicker studs instead of battening. 100mm CLS is actually about 94-95mm wide so 100mm insulation wouldn't sit flush both sides if that sort of thing annoys you. Wickes sell 140mm CLS which would give you a rather deep 40mm service void. Perhaps fit 110mm insulation between 140mm studs leaving a 30mm void? See what you can get locally. One advantage of battening is that it gives you a second opportunity to flatten a wall if the studs are bowed. Best way to build this is probably to fit timber to floor and ceiling first then fit alternate stud - PIR - Stud - PIR. That way the studs can be tight up against the PIR with no need to cut the PIR to fit between studs. You might also consider two layers of plasterboard for extra sound proofing. Have they already converted "their side"? If not did the BCO say anything about what you need to do to prevent fire spread through shared roof?

As for editing pdf files... The simplest way might be just to print them, apply tipex or paper labels, photocopy, mark up and photocopy again. In the past I've used an office supplies company to do this on large sheets. If you want to edit the pdf itself it will depend how the image in the pdf file was generated. Free editors may allow you to extract the image to an image editing program.

From Trafford council web site..

I think decent size pilot holes is the way to go or you might start shearing off the heads of stainless steel screws.

I might be out of date but it used to be the case that not all multiplexes were broadcast at the same power. Typically the multiplexes containing BBC1, ITV etc were quite a bit more powerful than the lesser multiplexes such as COM8. It could just be his set up isn't good enough to receive COM/Now 80s.

I cant immediately workout OK which transmitter you point at but: The Tavistock transmitter is only a Freeview Light transmitter which doesn't broadcast the Com multiplexes. There are full service transmitters at Caradon Hill and Huntshaw Cross. Caradon Hill appears to cover Bude.

I used a radiant gas heater to keep me warm in a workshop. One side of you felt warm and the other cold...until the air warmed up. Guide here.. https://www.infraredheatersdirect.co.uk/news/radiant-heat-panels-demystified-fact-vs-fiction/ Suggests they are essentially "line of sight"... What if you want everywhere heated?

Dropbox might be another possibility.

If that was "Now 80s" then google says it is/was in multiplex "Com 8". That's broadcast by about 75% of the TV transmitters. Would have been 83 on the programming guide. If he can't get that it looks like its on Spotify and Sky (Freesat?). Edit: Apparently Com 8 is broadcast from Sandy Heath which is my transmitter but I can't immediately see any of the channels in that multiplex. That's probably because my Freeview Tuner doesn't support HD. Could he have same issue? What transmitter is he pointed at?

Yes. They are using the 57-60 for the 5g mobile phone network. People with "old" wide band aerials may need filters to prevent interference. I think they also plan to pinch a few more frequencies in future.

I'd put it on top. Perhaps make a jig to help you cut the loads of small bits needed to fill the gaps?

I note the cladding battens are 25*38. If the cladding is going to be nailed on I would go for bigger horizontal battens as with smaller battens it can be like trying to hammer a nail into a spring. Also take a look at some of the guides for cladding online. They normally recommend fixings are 1" from the end of a plank at a join. So that's 2" between nails but the batten is only 38mm wide. You might be able to avoid joins or use two battens or short blocks where there will be joins but it needs some planning ahead.

+1 In many areas you now need a wideband to get all the channels/MUX. However if you can use a group/narrow band they can work better (lower noise and more gain than a wideband).

Sounds like you got it sorted but just for info... usually a bigger aerial (higher gain) is better than a small(er) aerial and an amplifier. That's because amplifiers add their own noise. One issue is that a very high gain aerial can be very directional so very important to point it exactly right direction or you loose all the gain.

As understand it the government is concerned that old non working turbines might be abandoned as has happened in the USA. So planning grants normally have a planning condition requiring removal if it doesn't generate for six months. There is probably something similar in the PDR rules.

Nick - What is your outer skin? The other place we have some lead is on the top of some brick plinths/external window sills. Apparently that's an NHBC recommendation / anti frost spalling measure.

Some others here.. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p02q34z8

Summary of planning rules here.. https://www.thegreenage.co.uk/tech/planning-permission-for-wind-turbines/

When you connect them to a generator or pump they become a wind turbine :-) The ones in your original picture don't look that different to this type of vertical axis wind turbine. Smaller ones are sometimes used on boats.

I guess that would be possible but they will be a less efficient than a regular wind turbine of similar size. There may also be a planning issue.

I don't know about trays but I used lead flashing above windows in a timber clad building to prevent water getting in. It basically extends the membrane behind the cladding out over the head of the window.

An LCD TV might not be a bad idea. Some can play slideshows and video from a usb memory stick so you could have any image you like. If networked you might be able to display the real time view of say a beach in Hawaii or some other web can.

Reminds me of this YouTube video. Skip to about half way.

No. The duty is an amount in £. The tariff is the rate in % used to to calculate the duty. If you order something like a lorry load of bricks or timber the cost to you should be calculated as follows.. Total = [(Cost of goods + shipping + insurance) + duty] + VAT In addition there might be a fee (and VAT on the fee) from the customs broker (company that processes the goods through customs. For example they may have to store the goods while they contact you and collect your payment of duty and VAT).