Temp

Shocking revelations on day one of part 2... https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2020/jan/27/grenfell-tower-inquiry-companies-passing-the-buck-on-responsibility "....Arconic knew the fire performance of its Reynobond polyethylene-filled panels was below the minimum required for facades in Europe..." "....Claude Wehrle, an Arconic official, had explained in internal emails in 2011 that the fire rating of the panels had dropped to class E from class B and so were “unsuitable for use on building facades” in Europe. But, he said, “we can still work with regulators who are not as restrictive”." "In another email in 2015, Wehrle admitted that Reynobond PE was “dangerous on facades and everything should be transferred to (FR) fire-resistant as a matter of urgency”." "....counsel for Rydon, the main contractor, who said: “Arconic continued to use the [class B] certificate to promote sales of Reynobond and did so specifically in the case of Grenfell Tower.” and more..

Reminder.. Currently if you move house you have 18 months to sell the old one before it starts attracting CGT. This is reducing to 9 months in April. In addition if you have to pay CGT you will only have 30 days after the sale to pay it ! If you sell after nine months (eg after 12 months) it's not just the gain in the extra 3 months you have to worry about. The calculation is more complicated.

Try screwing one into a sample bit of wood before doing it for real. I found I sheared off some bolts if I didn't drill pilot holes. Something like M3.5 maybe enough. Long bits are available. Ideally the screws should be long enough so the threaded part is only in the lower bit of wood. If the threaded part bridges the gap between the two it may prevent the two bits of wood pulling together. Sorry if you know this stuff.

We have one or two joints in engineered oak that move with the seasons. They open in winter when the air is dry and close in summer when it's humid. I'm not sure I would fill any gaps in winter.

There are traps you can make from a bucket of water that will keep working for a long time and catch many mice. See youtube.

What "use class" do the planners think it has? If they think it's an agricultural building then it might be possible to rent it to a farmer for 6 months. Then reapply for planning permission once its eligible. I don't think you have to pay rates on an agricultural barn.

Are you eligible for the self build exemption? It's not 100% clear if the self build exemption is meant to cover barn conversions because the legislation talks about "new build". Some councils allow it to apply to barn conversions and see the case I found that was settled before it went to court..

Some have perforations all over, others have perforation on just the top or bottom of the pipe. The latter can be used with perforated half either up or down.... Up - typically used as a land drain to collect water and send it somewhere else. Down - typically used to create a drainage field/soakaway to disperse water collected elsewhere. The Paving Expert web site has a lot of info on this sort of thing.

Both have insulation under the concrete slab. The main difference is how they deal with the cold bridge formed where the inner leaf of the outside walls reaches the ground. For example in many houses this leaf is block and rests on the foundations - so it penetrates through the floor insulation. There are many ways around the problem. One is to extend the insulation under the inner leaf and build the inner leaf resting on the slab rather than the foundations. That way the insulation under the floor joins u with insulation in the walls. https://images.app.goo.gl/fqbHMhnXRw9P4YwL7 [/img]

It was a field between a Church and 16C Cottage. Already had PP but we needed more than a year to get it changed. I'm afraid its 12 years ago. As I recall the company we got Site Insurance from was able to delay the start date of the "site" part and give us just the public liability part. Sorry I can't find details of the company in my files.

I might be wrong but I think you just need to show the building has been lawfully used for any 6 months in the past 3 years?

Regarding the existing PP for an 88sqm house.. Does it have a condition removing Permitted Development Rights (PDR)? You might not even need PP to add a 25sqm extension to an 88sqm house. Depends on the details. However a house doesn't acquire PDR until it's finished so officially you should build the house, then extend it which had implications for the VAT reclaim. You can't apply to extend what hasn't been built yet either. However you could make a new application for an identical house with the extension. Sometimes the planners like parts of a house to look like an extension even when it isn't. A massive house near us looks like a house that was extended about 4 times but in reality it was built all at once. In short.. it would be possible to start the foundations of the existing PP to extend its life indefinitely, then apply for a new house that uses the existing foundations and an "extension". If that was refused you could finish the approved house and might be able to build an extension under PDR.

There is no legal requirement to buy third party insurance but these days if someone out walking their dog trips over a blade of grass they seem to feel they are entitled to claim a bundle off the rich land owner even if they were trespassing at the time. In my case we had a public footpath across our plot that was walked reasonably frequently in summer. If a tree fell on someone it could have bankrupt us so we felt insurance was worth getting. Incidentally I've just switched house insurance to the AA. Saved a bundle and got better cover.

Unfortunately appeals also take a long time. There is usually enough time for the council to come to a decision before the appeal gets to be heard. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200207/appeals/110/making_an_appeal/2 https://www.gov.uk/guidance/appeals-average-timescales-for-arranging-inquiries-and-hearings

I couldn't Google up anything on that. Perhaps give another company a call and ask if they have heard anything. PS I know contaminated soil has to go to special licensed sites but I don't know who gets to make the determination.

I could only find this which I expect you have seen.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/274713/wayleave_guidance.pdf "6.1 Q: Can the licence holder make an application for a necessary wayleave to install or retain an electric line on or over, or under, a house or land which has planning permission for a dwelling? A: Where the necessary wayleave application relates to a new electric line the Secretary of State cannot grant a necessary wayleave where a dwelling covers the land or where planning permission exists for a house to be constructed, unless the line is to be placed underground (see paragraph 6(4) of Schedule 4 to the 1989 Act). The same restriction does not apply where the application for the grant of a necessary wayleave relates to an existing electric line. This interpretation has been upheld by the High Court (see R v Secretary of State for Trade and Industry, ex parte Wolf (1997) QBD; unreported; case CO/0788/97)." I couldn't find any more on that case online

That dog looks guilty already.

Generally yes but there are some exceptions (think it's different in London or for planning applications determined at county rather than district level?). I tried to check that and found web pages saying Mid Devon had submitted proposals for the CIL in 2017 but couldn't confirm if it was ever formally adopted. Regarding extensions.. If you are extending your main house and the floor area of the extension is less than 100sqm and it doesn't create a new dwelling, then I believe it's exempt under the "minor development exemption". Just be careful if you plan to sell or let it within three years... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/community-infrastructure-levy#para048 If it's more than 100sqm you may qualify for the self build exemption but I think that has to be claimed using form 9 (eg it's not granted automatically) and the claim process followed to the letter. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/community-infrastructure-levy#para049

This page summarises what's been said above.. https://job-prices.co.uk/waste-pipe-dimensions/

No idea if it would work outside. I think the principle is either... * condensation needs dust to form on so clean glass is less likely to attract condensation? Or * It causes the droplets to clump together and run off?

I would suggest it's not possible to produce a simple guide! In some cases the actual diameter of a pipe is manufacture specific. So for example 50mm waste pipe isn't 50mm in diameter, it's exact size sometimes depends on the make and if it's push fit or solvent weld. For that reason size conversion charts should only be used to get you in the right ball park. Stick to one make and keep receipts is best advice I can give.

You need drawings for Full Building Control Approval route but not for the Building Notice route (or at least not so many). Which route you should take probably depends on how experienced you are and the complexity of the design. An experienced builder can risk going down the Building Notice route. First time self builders managing it all themselves probably safer to go full building control approval.

I wonder if washing the outside with dish washing liquid would help? Bit like the trick divers use to keep face mask free of condensation.

Found some info here.. https://www2.gov.scot/resource/buildingstandards/2017Domestic/chunks/ch08s02.html

My reading of para 4 is that the SS can grant a wayleave for an underground cable but not for one on or above ground. If they have applied to the SS for a wayleave for an above ground cable I think I would write to the SS pointing out this paragraph precludes him granting one. Cite any reference number the company gives in their application and your planning reference.