Temp

I don't know if this sort of policy would cover it. Might be a limit thats too low? Only covers 25% deposits.. https://www.hip.insure/deposit-protection/ http://www.homeimprovementsguarantee.co.uk/deposit-protection/

Any removals companies you could ask to quote? Eg if someone is moving off island perhaps you can fill their van for the return trip.

I believe he should if I'm reading para 1.3c correctly... https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/468870/ADE_LOCKED.pdf But perhaps see para 4 on page 10 about the robust design detail drawings.

How much do you need? Can you hire a van or borrow a minibus whio the seats out and go collect it?

I think the thinnest concrete floor you might get away with would be.. 60mm reinforced screed 80mm Insulation (check u-value is ok with BCO) DPM sheet 25mm sand blind 100mm compacted hardcore. However you would need to do a good job of levelling and compacting the ground and hardcore with a vibrating wacker plate. Do it in several layers. See what others say. Some may suggest a bit thinner screed or more hardcore.

A few Google finds. Not used them myself ... 200mm.. https://www.bodleeds.co.uk/roman-haven-8mm-glass-flipper-hinged-return-panel-200mm-x-2000mm-132912-p.asp https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/mira-ascend-200mm-hinged-deflector-return-panel-8mm-glass-11862209-530-1255948?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=GB&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmcWDBhCOARIsALgJ2Qc1mC39ZPUKSkRcpyx9Ql02HofIinvEyMoDaj38dTr89s9LNF6iIsEaAqupEALw_wcB https://www.fountaindirect.co.uk/kohler-composed-hinged-return-panel.html#id=66970 Google hinged return panel 200mm

Only 3 ton bags of MOT for 39sqm? Is it me or is that a bit light? At 100mm thick that's 3.9 cubic meters. MOT 1 is 1.9 tonnes per cubic meter so 3.9 cubic is over 7 tonnes. Bulk bags of MOT vary from 750-1000kg per bag. Have i made a mistake somewhere?

Is the garden wall also new?

Point out that road/traffic noise is very different to the noise of air powered impact tools?

Perhaps.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Stop-Influence-Planning-Permission/dp/0953348903 https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Object-planning-application-appeal/dp/1912384108 Although you may know most of it. You also need to check the closing date for comments/objections. If time is short you could start by raising an objection that neighbours have not been notified as required and demand they restart the statutory consultation period. If other houses are affected I recommend you help them with their objection letters as these need to contain valid planning reasons for rejection. Most people prattle on about things that carry no weight such as loss of a view or devaluation of property. Mention things like.. Out of keeping/not in an industrial area/outside village boundary but near houses. Noisy industry inappropriate near a cemetry. Any noise complaints from their current place? Access near dangerous bends in the road? Speed limit?

Unfortunately if over 15sqm it has to be 1m away or made of non combustible materials.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/43/outbuildings/2 Other people here have had issues with Building Control on just this issue after being reported by neighbours.

Are there different types of oil finish? Our is Hardwax Oil and its more like a matt/silk varnish than a wax or oil. We have it in the hall and are kids went from 5 to 18 years old. Still doesn't need recoating. Only place showing any wear is the edge of the stairs.

Planning Permission: See the guide here (page 41 onwards) applies to out buildings. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance There are several situations where Planning Permission might be needed but regarding this issue.. If that's not the Principle Elevation of the house then you won't need planning permission for that reason. Building Regulations You should not need to make a Building Control Application but it would be wise to follow some aspects of the Building Regulations such as use of safety glass in door panels /low glazing. If you want electricity out there you should employ an electrician qualified to do work that is notifiable under Part P of the Building Regs/Approved Documents to do the work. He should/must notify Building Control of the work he has done. This would typically involve running SWA cable from your house to the garden room, fitting a small Consumer Unit (sometimes called a Garage CU) with seperate lighting and power circuits and installing an earth rod. You can save money by digging the trench yourself and back filling when he's done.

+1 to more history needed. Are there any flow meters on the manifolds and what do they say? Does the boiler seem happy? Or is it switching on and off very frequently?

Labgear, PROception and Antiference all make Distribution Amplifiers with 6-12 ports.

The best approach is to fit the correct size, type and possibly band of aerial outside and as high as possible. Connect that to a "TV Distribution Amplifier" with just enough gain to distribute the signal to the TV outlets. Most will will need a mains socket. If you are in a weak signal area then a bigger and higher aerial should be tried first. Adding a signal booster amplifier should be the last resort if you already have a massive aerial and still don't get a strong signal. The best type of amplifier is a mast head amplifier. Hint, it goes at the head of the mast right next to the aerial and is powered up the coaxial cable.

You can do that although the bidet pipe looks smaller than the shower pipe. If this is on the top floor of your house I'd be tempted to replace the 110mm boss and the branch above it. With new bits that do what you need. Presumably the stack goes up through the roof so I would support that temporarily high up so it cannot drop when the stack is cut. Remove boss and branch and replace with similar plus a short length of pipe and a slip coupling to reconnect to the stack. Bit of pipe lube will reduce the wrestling needed. PS: If you pull up on the boss it might disconnect the stack lower down in the room below so take care.

We have wet UFH in the main bathroom which has a stone floor. Means bare feet are comfortable in the winter and summer.

Our floor has been down 13 years. Only had to recoat the WC. Have occasionally mopped the floor but only with a damp mop.

PS. We got our 21mm x 200mm engineered oak from Woods of Wales. It came precoated with Hardwax Oil. Shop around as some engineered wood i picked up at the shows was a very strange colour when I got it home. You need to see it in natural light.

We have engineered oak in many rooms over wet UFH. In my view the key is to have JUST engineered wood over the UFH. Some people buy 14mm thick engineered wood then discover the Building Regs (?) require 18mm minimum. So they end up laying 18mm chipboard first and 14mm engineered wood on top making 32mm. Its much better to use 18-21mm Engineered wood directly on joists or battens with UFH between.

I've seen a house in Belgium that looks like someone took an axe to the ridge and cut a V shape glazed notch out of the ridge.

Looks good to me.

Yes to starting in the middle but first check won't be left with very thin cuts to do around the edges later. If that's going to happen put a grout line in the middle.

If its only a few areas that need rebuilding you can try spelling out what you propose in the planning application. Call it a conversion but make it clear somewhere in the Design and Access document the parts that will need rebuilding. If most of it needs rebuilding you will need to apply for a knock down and rebuild. Perhaps go for the former and let the planning officer decide if it needs to be considered a knock down and rebuild.