Temp

+1 A piece like this if you can get it behind both bits of flashing.. Some sealer will be needed as well I think.

I got one of these stick welders about a year ago. https://www.toolstation.com/sip-05741-weldmate-t141p-arc-welder/p50765 Its a transformer model and with hindsight I think there are better options. On thin sheet you need to turn the current down to prevent burning holes. Problem is that seems to make it harder to strike an arc. In addition I cant turn it down as far as I would like. I believe some models that use an IGBT boost the current/voltage to make it easier to strike an arc and then reduce it to the set value to stop you burning holes.

Google finds.. Iron one 600mm Square.. £66 +vat.. https://www.easymerchant.co.uk/manhole-covers/heavy-duty/b125-ductile-iron/ Composite.. £52+vat https://www.easymerchant.co.uk/manhole-covers/heavy-duty/a15-composite-locking/ Never heard of this supplier though. 600 Square on ebay.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLARK-DRAIN-CD12-600-X-600-SOLID-TOP-CAST-IRON-COVER-AND-FRAME-A15KN-/114700159427?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=Cj0KCQjwsqmEBhDiARIsANV8H3bwNHg2YFwzrn2ngGWO5A-7TMmqWO08firHwRArBaWZHu11qGcJZjoaAlPKEALw_wcB&redirect=mobile Cheap steel at Jewson.. https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/ej-manhole-solid-top-cover-and-frame-600-x-600-x-25mm-MCPS51DG

They might well pick up on this unless its well covered up ? See.. https://www.labc.co.uk/news/when-do-i-need-building-regulations-approval-renovating-thermal-element Im not quite sure how they define "more than 50%". I think you need to comply if more than 50% of _a_ wall or 25% of all walls are being changed.

The wall is rendered above the roof so I'm not entirely convinced that the problem is a missing cavity tray. It might be but I would expect newish render to keep most if the water out of the cavity. I would look at how the flashing has been done as per... Perhaps wait until its all dry and take a hose up there. Play it on the flashing not the wall and see it damp spots appear.

The void under a timber floor should be ventilated so yes to insulation. Both floor and pipe.

Well you obviously have to leave the ends of the lintel supported so not "everything". Bearing ends are normally 100-150mm long. edit: posted same time as @joe90

Rights in common are normally thing like shared access eg to a garden grazing rights. Not heard of a quasi easement but Google suggests... https://www.enotes.com/homework-help/what-quasi-easement-114797#:~:text=A quasi-easement exists when,one part to someone else. "A quasi-easement exists when the owner of a parcel of land uses part of that land for the benefit of some other part of his or her land. This doesn't really start to matter unless the owner breaks up his/her land and sells one part to someone else" Presumably it might then be turned into a regular easement.

That would be my interpretation. Covenants are tricky things though. They have to be written just right or they cannot be enforced. There is even a difference between positive and negative covenants.

They aren't automatically exempt. See my post earlier about claiming and qualifying for the exemption. You should ask your solicitor what the contract says about the CIL ASAP.

My understanding is that you can withdraw your own liability and if nobody else accepts liability it runs with the land. So a new owner could get a surprise bill.

I don't think his planning application would change anything. He would get an exemption for the CIL on that one but i think he would still get a bill for the existing one whenever you start. Even if that was a few years after he's finished building. I don't know if this has ever happened but I can't think of a reason why not. The CIL rules don't take all possibilities into account. I heard a story that one man died during construction of his self build. His widow finished the house but didn't want to live in such a big place on her own. Council reminded her she couldn't move for three years or she would lose the exemption.

The value of the plot to the buyer probably takes the CIL exemption into account. So if you suddenly tell him he's going to pay it he may reduce his offer or back out. Its like buying a house and discovering at the last moment the seller is taking the conservatory with them.

Not sure if the rules have changed but you must NOT start anything until you have done the CIL exemption paperwork process. Its detailed at the top of one of the claim forms. Fail to follow the process can make you liable for the CIL.

If they won't allow a phased development perhaps the only answer is to submit two seperarate planning applications? Perhaps just one if the owner of the second plot is going to make his own application?

This is 2nd time its come up in a week. I think the only official solution is to apply to ammend the PP to make it phased. I'm afraid I don't know how hard or easy that will be. The council might be willing to waive the rules but historically letters from the council relating to planning matters have not been legally binding unless they are a formal Grant of Planning or a Cerrificate of Lawfulness.

Don't need to skim but should use a primer. Do not use PVA because it can soften if it gets wet. Normally the adhesive co will recommend their own primer. BAL adhesives have a pretty good rep.

Some of ours..

I inherited a similar size petrol rotavator. Useless, it just skips about on a hard surface. I'd rent something bigger. If you still have an excavator on site use that to dig up the top layer.

Take care because you cut off the layer of wood preserver if you do that.

The trick with solvent welding is to assemble the pipe and put depth and angle marks so you can be sure its reassembled quickly and correctly. Then use the right amount of adhesive. If you use too little it makes the plastic very sticky and the set up time is faster. By using plenty (but not OTT) you get a bit more time to assemble and check alignment.

I would recommend using a waterproof plasterboard or Hardi backer board in the shower and around the bath.

Turf wont shrink if you keep it wet enough but it can be a challenge to do that.

If you go for turf make sure you have a good water supply. When we did ours our outside tap could barely supply enough water to stop the turf shrinking. What I mean is it could run two sprinklers at once but even moving them every 30-60 mins wasn't enough to stop some areas drying out in the sun/wind. It also meant someone had to be at home for a week or so.

Knew it had come up before..