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We retained 5% for a year. That 5% was deducted from each stage payment. Our builder provided his own WC, site office and storage container included in the price quoted. At one point he asked if I could help with his cash flow and I agreed to purchase the windows myself. If you do that you have two choices. Write him a cheque less the VAT or pay the window company Inc VAT and reclaim it. The latter is safer.

1) I would estimate no more than 7-10 days for anything. However nothing is going to be ultra cheap if the prep is done correctly. 2) The poor state appears to be because its been constructed and altered/added to in many stages. However a common cause is also a lack of correct preparation (Eg not enough hardcore or incorrect compaction) before the top surface is laid. 3) Personally I would retain the garden unless you are short of space. 4) That depends on the final finish. You can get manhole covers designed to take block paving, concrete and probably tarmac to match the rest. Consider where you would want to put an electric car charger and consider running a duct there? Are there any issues with drainage? I recommend only using a company that has a landline and an address you could go and check actually exists. A really bad job would involve someone breaking up the existing concrete with a hammer and calling it compacted hardcore, then putting tarmac on top. That would raise the level and probably last just few months before developing issues. Done correctly all the concrete should be taken up and anything below it to perhaps a total depth of 250mm. If the concrete is to be reused it should be properly reprocessed into hardcore, probably off site. Proper kerbs/edging should be installed and haunched with concrete. The ground should be compacted (vibrating roller or possibly a wacker plate) then hardcore laid and compacted in layers to a depth of perhaps 150mm thick. What happens next depends on what finish you go for. There is a lot of advice on how to do it properly on this site. Last time I looked they had some summary specifications for the work you could use to get quotes. https://www.pavingexpert.com/ Check out the site index.

Well at least they have some capability to handle a SMETS1 meter. I'm not even going to bother with smart meters until they can guarantee I'll get a SMETS2 meter.

The picture of the manifold appears to have been taken with all actuators closed and no flow in any loops. So when it was taken either the UFH was off or all the stats were satisfied. Can you take a similar photo with all or several of the stats calling for heat? Edit: Actually it looks like the photo was taken during installation. One of the flow or return pipes isn't yet connected at the left hand side?

Thats the only way I know to be certain. Does the kitchen project out the back like an extension? You may need to see if it lines up with the wall inside or if there is a stagger.

If you are happy with the work being done by the builders sub contractors I would collect their contact details in case you need to hire them direct to work for you.

+1 I believe the regs say the AAV must be higher than the wash basin waste?

Sometimes the planners will refuse an application if more than half of the original garden will end up built on. In fact the rules on Permitted Development say a planning application is needed if.. So you should check if more than 50% will be built on and if so one objection might be.. "Over development - more than half the area of original garden will end up built on." Can he put up a fence ?

I think a lot of builders wrap the pipe in some sort of insulation like rock wool and just fill trenches either side with gravel. Something like perspex or similar plastic sheet would work but its not cheap. Note it isn't fixed to the wall just slipped over the pipe.

As far as i know Permitted Development doesnt work like that. When they got planning permission to knock down and rebuild they might have used an argument that the new house would be no bigger than the old one plus any extensions they could have built under PDR. However that doesn't actually "use up" PDR. What normally happens is the planners grant permission subject to a condition that removes PDR. So dig out the planning grant and check that they actually impose a condition that removed PDR. If they didn't then PDR rights are still available to be used. Edit: or do you mean they got permission to knock down and rebuild and after that they extended it using PDR?

Old thread alert but... I have a wildlife camera set up in my paddock at the moment as I think we have a badger visiting.

https://www.bjcjoinery.co.uk/guardian-extensions/sip-panel-extensions/

I don't know if this sort of policy would cover it. Might be a limit thats too low? Only covers 25% deposits.. https://www.hip.insure/deposit-protection/ http://www.homeimprovementsguarantee.co.uk/deposit-protection/

Any removals companies you could ask to quote? Eg if someone is moving off island perhaps you can fill their van for the return trip.

I believe he should if I'm reading para 1.3c correctly... https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/468870/ADE_LOCKED.pdf But perhaps see para 4 on page 10 about the robust design detail drawings.

How much do you need? Can you hire a van or borrow a minibus whio the seats out and go collect it?

I think the thinnest concrete floor you might get away with would be.. 60mm reinforced screed 80mm Insulation (check u-value is ok with BCO) DPM sheet 25mm sand blind 100mm compacted hardcore. However you would need to do a good job of levelling and compacting the ground and hardcore with a vibrating wacker plate. Do it in several layers. See what others say. Some may suggest a bit thinner screed or more hardcore.

A few Google finds. Not used them myself ... 200mm.. https://www.bodleeds.co.uk/roman-haven-8mm-glass-flipper-hinged-return-panel-200mm-x-2000mm-132912-p.asp https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/mira-ascend-200mm-hinged-deflector-return-panel-8mm-glass-11862209-530-1255948?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=GB&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmcWDBhCOARIsALgJ2Qc1mC39ZPUKSkRcpyx9Ql02HofIinvEyMoDaj38dTr89s9LNF6iIsEaAqupEALw_wcB https://www.fountaindirect.co.uk/kohler-composed-hinged-return-panel.html#id=66970 Google hinged return panel 200mm

Only 3 ton bags of MOT for 39sqm? Is it me or is that a bit light? At 100mm thick that's 3.9 cubic meters. MOT 1 is 1.9 tonnes per cubic meter so 3.9 cubic is over 7 tonnes. Bulk bags of MOT vary from 750-1000kg per bag. Have i made a mistake somewhere?

Is the garden wall also new?

Point out that road/traffic noise is very different to the noise of air powered impact tools?

Perhaps.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Stop-Influence-Planning-Permission/dp/0953348903 https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Object-planning-application-appeal/dp/1912384108 Although you may know most of it. You also need to check the closing date for comments/objections. If time is short you could start by raising an objection that neighbours have not been notified as required and demand they restart the statutory consultation period. If other houses are affected I recommend you help them with their objection letters as these need to contain valid planning reasons for rejection. Most people prattle on about things that carry no weight such as loss of a view or devaluation of property. Mention things like.. Out of keeping/not in an industrial area/outside village boundary but near houses. Noisy industry inappropriate near a cemetry. Any noise complaints from their current place? Access near dangerous bends in the road? Speed limit?

Unfortunately if over 15sqm it has to be 1m away or made of non combustible materials.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/43/outbuildings/2 Other people here have had issues with Building Control on just this issue after being reported by neighbours.

Are there different types of oil finish? Our is Hardwax Oil and its more like a matt/silk varnish than a wax or oil. We have it in the hall and are kids went from 5 to 18 years old. Still doesn't need recoating. Only place showing any wear is the edge of the stairs.

Planning Permission: See the guide here (page 41 onwards) applies to out buildings. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance There are several situations where Planning Permission might be needed but regarding this issue.. If that's not the Principle Elevation of the house then you won't need planning permission for that reason. Building Regulations You should not need to make a Building Control Application but it would be wise to follow some aspects of the Building Regulations such as use of safety glass in door panels /low glazing. If you want electricity out there you should employ an electrician qualified to do work that is notifiable under Part P of the Building Regs/Approved Documents to do the work. He should/must notify Building Control of the work he has done. This would typically involve running SWA cable from your house to the garden room, fitting a small Consumer Unit (sometimes called a Garage CU) with seperate lighting and power circuits and installing an earth rod. You can save money by digging the trench yourself and back filling when he's done.