kestrel

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About kestrel

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  1. Yes its a 40mm pipe for the white bidet pipe
  2. Yes its on the top floor of the house and yes the stack goes up through the roof. Is it possible to just push the stack upwards enough through the roof in order to disconnect the branches and replace the bits needed then pull the stack back down? (sorry im not sure how the stack is held in place where it exits the roof. Doesn't seem to have any brackets holding it in the loft though) Or is cutting an fitting a slip coupler the only option?
  3. working on my bathroom refurb and have removed tiles/boxing etc to find he following arrangement the white pipe in the fore ground is for the bidet which is being permanently removed, its a push fit socket. the white pipe running along the top of the floor board and round the back of the stack before connecting into the stack is the shower drain. I want to move this below the floor board so there is no need for boxing. The problem is its solvent welded in place where it goes into the branch instead of trying to make use of the existing shower outlet i was thinking i could just re use the push fit outlet from the bidet that will be disconnected for the new shower waste but a few questions: 1. would it be okay to connect the new shower up to the push fit outlet? (not sure if it needs to be solvent welded or not?) 2. can i just cut and cap off the existing shower outlet with some sort of blanking cap? 3. any other suggestions?
  4. is there any way to prevent/reduce water getting in? (Ideally would like to not have to get the verge re bedded if possible)
  5. Ive noticed that some of my verge tiles dont look like they sit quite right.....notice the gaps between the first few tile courses? After having cleaned up the moss ive have a few leaks around this area and cant find any damaged or broken tiles Do you think the gaps could leave the tiles prone to leaks from wind driven/heavy rain? especially with the run off from the gutter above (which has been straightened out since taking the pics) Is there anything i can do to seal up these gaps to prevent the likelihood of water being blown up into the gaps?
  6. Yep Undecided at the moment. Instructions say to fit the eaves course as normal then fit the protector to the batten for the first full sized tile and each full tile batten thereafter That will ensure the top of the eaves course and the top of first full course above the eaves are covered. Ill do a test fit on the very first batten and see how it affects the eaves tiles then decide
  7. Thanks for the advice guys. I came across this product which might get me out of having to strip everything and cut down/refit right away https://www.permavent.co.uk/products/plain-easy/ looks very much like a eurocell eaves protector with most of the lip cut off and fitted upside down going to try a couple of runs on the first few courses where the tile pitch is affected and see if it helps buy me some time until the weather improves and i can do a proper job of it.
  8. Never heard of this before. Does it do a similar job as a tilting fillet?
  9. Traditional fascia and gutter In the pics the fascia is below the underlay.....its hidden by the underlay as ive not trimmed it down yet
  10. Ahh i see, so its a common way of fitting that creates a common problem
  11. So is this a common/correct way of fitting then, and importantly, does it increase the chance of water getting through and under the tiles? just seems not quite right especially since water was getting through the tiles in this exact area I assumed this to be the cause of water running down the fascias and into the soffits after not being able to find anything else obvious above or around the area in question yes the side lap looks good all tiles inspected and no breaks or cracks. Headlap is within spec as is the side lap
  12. Concerned the tiles being at such a shallow angle will prevent water run off and pooling as mentioned @joe90. I might have to try cutting some of the top out of the fascia out with my multi tool. Does anyone one know if there is a reference somewhere as to what the correct dimension from the top edge of the fascia to the top of the rafter should be? Cant see anything on redlands data sheets
  13. Yes I'll be fitting trays. Never had them fitted before and suffered water getting behind and running down the fascias hence me lifting the tiles/battens only to discover the eaves course was very flat
  14. any other ideas on the options available?
  15. original batten spacing with the batten sitting directly on the rafter Had a go a putting some wood shims under the first batten to try and improve the angle the picture is not completely square on the end of the tiles but you get the idea