Temp

As I recall its a £10,000 fine. Edit: Sorry its £20,000.. https://www.gov.uk/penalties-for-employing-illegal-workers#:~:text=You can be sent to,to work in the UK.

Wales Online: Your decking is upside down and the grooves are not there for grip, experts reveal... https://www.walesonline.co.uk/news/wales-news/your-decking-upside-down-grooves-20389098

If Permitted Development Rights were removed then that just means any new extension will need a Planning Application. It doesn't mean that the application will automatically be refused. What do neighbouring houses look like? Are they bigger/smaller? Would an extension overlook them?

A lot depends on where you are in relation to the transmitter and what the terrain is like between your house and the transmitter. Sometimes you need a massive aerial on a tall mast and sometimes a short length of wet string in the living room will do. Try entering your postcode here and it will tell you which transmitter you should point at and likely signal strength. If it recommends several transmitters then check what the terrain/trees/buildings are like in those directions. Usually the first or nearest is the best choice. https://www.freeview.co.uk/corporate/detailed-transmitter-information If your insulation isn't foil covered (or its at joist level) then i would try a cheap aerial in the £20 range from Toolstation or screwfix. That way if it doesn't work you haven't lost much. In general the weaker the signal the larger the aerial you need. Having one that is too big is better than too small. I would mount it on a short mast on some plywood and stick some bricks on it. Use a compass to get it pointed in roughly the right direction. Then use the signal strength and quality bar graphs on your TV set up menu to fine tune the position and direction. Now we are all digital you can't really rely on the picture quality to set up the aerial. It might appear perfect but one rain shower later its unwatchable. Best use the signal strength and quality displays in a TV or PVR. Mark the outline of the plywood on the floor boards when happy in case it gets knocked. If you can't get a strong signal with good quality or there are other issues then you can try a different/bigger more expensive aerial but at some point its better to spend money to get a professional to sort it. Especially if the problem is technical, for example interference from another transmitter. It is rare to need an amplifier. Thats because a bigger aerial is almost always better than a small aerial and an amplifier. Amplifiers amplify noise as well as the wanted signal. If you want multiple TV points the use a "TV Distribution Amplifier" these have just enough gain to correct for losses introduced by splitting the signal multiple ways.

We retained 5% for a year. That 5% was deducted from each stage payment. Our builder provided his own WC, site office and storage container included in the price quoted. At one point he asked if I could help with his cash flow and I agreed to purchase the windows myself. If you do that you have two choices. Write him a cheque less the VAT or pay the window company Inc VAT and reclaim it. The latter is safer.

1) I would estimate no more than 7-10 days for anything. However nothing is going to be ultra cheap if the prep is done correctly. 2) The poor state appears to be because its been constructed and altered/added to in many stages. However a common cause is also a lack of correct preparation (Eg not enough hardcore or incorrect compaction) before the top surface is laid. 3) Personally I would retain the garden unless you are short of space. 4) That depends on the final finish. You can get manhole covers designed to take block paving, concrete and probably tarmac to match the rest. Consider where you would want to put an electric car charger and consider running a duct there? Are there any issues with drainage? I recommend only using a company that has a landline and an address you could go and check actually exists. A really bad job would involve someone breaking up the existing concrete with a hammer and calling it compacted hardcore, then putting tarmac on top. That would raise the level and probably last just few months before developing issues. Done correctly all the concrete should be taken up and anything below it to perhaps a total depth of 250mm. If the concrete is to be reused it should be properly reprocessed into hardcore, probably off site. Proper kerbs/edging should be installed and haunched with concrete. The ground should be compacted (vibrating roller or possibly a wacker plate) then hardcore laid and compacted in layers to a depth of perhaps 150mm thick. What happens next depends on what finish you go for. There is a lot of advice on how to do it properly on this site. Last time I looked they had some summary specifications for the work you could use to get quotes. https://www.pavingexpert.com/ Check out the site index.

Well at least they have some capability to handle a SMETS1 meter. I'm not even going to bother with smart meters until they can guarantee I'll get a SMETS2 meter.

The picture of the manifold appears to have been taken with all actuators closed and no flow in any loops. So when it was taken either the UFH was off or all the stats were satisfied. Can you take a similar photo with all or several of the stats calling for heat? Edit: Actually it looks like the photo was taken during installation. One of the flow or return pipes isn't yet connected at the left hand side?

Thats the only way I know to be certain. Does the kitchen project out the back like an extension? You may need to see if it lines up with the wall inside or if there is a stagger.

If you are happy with the work being done by the builders sub contractors I would collect their contact details in case you need to hire them direct to work for you.

+1 I believe the regs say the AAV must be higher than the wash basin waste?

Sometimes the planners will refuse an application if more than half of the original garden will end up built on. In fact the rules on Permitted Development say a planning application is needed if.. So you should check if more than 50% will be built on and if so one objection might be.. "Over development - more than half the area of original garden will end up built on." Can he put up a fence ?

I think a lot of builders wrap the pipe in some sort of insulation like rock wool and just fill trenches either side with gravel. Something like perspex or similar plastic sheet would work but its not cheap. Note it isn't fixed to the wall just slipped over the pipe.

As far as i know Permitted Development doesnt work like that. When they got planning permission to knock down and rebuild they might have used an argument that the new house would be no bigger than the old one plus any extensions they could have built under PDR. However that doesn't actually "use up" PDR. What normally happens is the planners grant permission subject to a condition that removes PDR. So dig out the planning grant and check that they actually impose a condition that removed PDR. If they didn't then PDR rights are still available to be used. Edit: or do you mean they got permission to knock down and rebuild and after that they extended it using PDR?

Old thread alert but... I have a wildlife camera set up in my paddock at the moment as I think we have a badger visiting.

https://www.bjcjoinery.co.uk/guardian-extensions/sip-panel-extensions/

I don't know if this sort of policy would cover it. Might be a limit thats too low? Only covers 25% deposits.. https://www.hip.insure/deposit-protection/ http://www.homeimprovementsguarantee.co.uk/deposit-protection/

Any removals companies you could ask to quote? Eg if someone is moving off island perhaps you can fill their van for the return trip.

I believe he should if I'm reading para 1.3c correctly... https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/468870/ADE_LOCKED.pdf But perhaps see para 4 on page 10 about the robust design detail drawings.

How much do you need? Can you hire a van or borrow a minibus whio the seats out and go collect it?

I think the thinnest concrete floor you might get away with would be.. 60mm reinforced screed 80mm Insulation (check u-value is ok with BCO) DPM sheet 25mm sand blind 100mm compacted hardcore. However you would need to do a good job of levelling and compacting the ground and hardcore with a vibrating wacker plate. Do it in several layers. See what others say. Some may suggest a bit thinner screed or more hardcore.

A few Google finds. Not used them myself ... 200mm.. https://www.bodleeds.co.uk/roman-haven-8mm-glass-flipper-hinged-return-panel-200mm-x-2000mm-132912-p.asp https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/mira-ascend-200mm-hinged-deflector-return-panel-8mm-glass-11862209-530-1255948?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=GB&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmcWDBhCOARIsALgJ2Qc1mC39ZPUKSkRcpyx9Ql02HofIinvEyMoDaj38dTr89s9LNF6iIsEaAqupEALw_wcB https://www.fountaindirect.co.uk/kohler-composed-hinged-return-panel.html#id=66970 Google hinged return panel 200mm

Only 3 ton bags of MOT for 39sqm? Is it me or is that a bit light? At 100mm thick that's 3.9 cubic meters. MOT 1 is 1.9 tonnes per cubic meter so 3.9 cubic is over 7 tonnes. Bulk bags of MOT vary from 750-1000kg per bag. Have i made a mistake somewhere?

Is the garden wall also new?

Point out that road/traffic noise is very different to the noise of air powered impact tools?