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For hand digging.. http://www.planningplanet.com/forums/planning-scheduling-programming-discussion/560899/manual-excavation-duration-1-cu-mtr Says allow 1 cubic meter a day unless you are Egyptian and they budget 2.3 cubic meters a day.

Could you use mini digger to load it onto a conveyor belt to get it through the pinch point and raise it up into a skip/dumper to take it further? Never used one but Jewson has this for £200 a week. Are they just for bricks or can they transport dirt? https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/miniveyor-portable-conveyor-JTH00226 Edit: This one for materials from HSS looks better.. https://hsstoolshop.co.uk/shifta-44m-materials-conveyors---110v-for-hire-1180-p.asp Edit: im late to the party again. Seems you've already looked at conveyors. Says upto 60 ton an hour!

As its outside the walled boundary its unlikely to be "within the curtilage of the listed building" so it shouldn't be a problem.

Could get two pretty decent oak wardrobes and a chest of drawers for that. Eg Oak Furniture Land. Where did you get quotes from? I'd try for a local carpenter. They can buy drawers or drawer kits so don't have to make those unless you want non standard sizes.

If the paving slabs are stacked on edge on the pallet then I think a regular two wheel sack trolley would work for moving them around on site. Just "walk" them off the pallet onto the trolley.

Not done it but isn't this what the rubber base for a wacker plate is for? I assumed it was for bedding in and leveling paving laid on sand? Or is that only blocks?

If you wait until you have Planning Permission (and have the CIL exemption paperwork done) then you could hire a "man and digger". Should be zero rated for VAT to you.

Some mini excavators have a blade. Very handy for grubbing up brambles into a bonfire and spreading ashes and levelling ground after. Can also be used to bury things that dont burn. https://www.hss.com/onecall/p/mini-excavator-1-5t PS: Just dont accidentally set fire to it. PPS: Best rates are over a weekend or long BH weekend.

Tricky one. I certainly wouldn't want to pay in advance or end up committed to him in a big way. However if he's a genuine guy with recommendations I would be ok using him labour only - Initially for a fixed/limited task so there is a natural end after a week or two if it doesn't work out?

That's quite a lot of hardcore infill. I make it over 100 cubic meters, possibly as much as 140/50. Does it ever get water in it? Once its filled I think there are two methods for the foundations... * A reinforced raft (So if anything moves it all moves together). * A piled foundation (Extends foundation down to solid ground). Our site was flat but there was evidence of a pond years ago where we wanted our garage. Builder opted for piled foundations. Sorry not sure about the cost as some years ago now..

Welcome. We were living in Belgium when we purchased our plot. It already had planning permission but we wanted to build further back on the plot. Took us a year to get new permission. Made many trips over to meet architect and planners. Flights, car hire, hotels etc. Worth every bit of hassle when we got permission.

Some bits look similar to one of mine but there are differences.. The labels, the foot plate and number of holes on the jaws. I have another one with some aluminium frames.

+1 5mm of water is a pretty low pressure change ?

I thinking cut and solder a bit of brass in the middle?

How much thread is there for the chrome sleeve? If there is a lot of thread could you add a spacer before fitting it? Then extend the brass bit if necessary.

Also still awake. Google suggest the extension kits are sometimes called "Deep rough in kits" or "deep rough extension" or similar. Example: https://www.nyrpcorp.com/bathroom-kitchen-shower-faucet-parts/shower-roughs/deep-rough-kits/ When we had a problem with our mixer the chrome part was ok but the brass spline was the wrong length. I ended up cutting and resoldering it.

I think some companies make longer chrome tubes and matching brass innards for this situation. I'd wait until you can contact the maker on Monday. Edit: Fir example Perrin & Rowe make 19mm and 30mm extension sets for deep cavities. No idea if they fit Roper Rhodes though.

I've transported a few 47kg in a Ford Galaxy and SMax. They roll around and break things unless carefuly propped.

Ours is full of trays, just slotted in. Is yours wide enough for a wine rack?

I recall a post here years ago from someone that had started a knock down and rebuild. About three quarters of the way through they ran out of cash and needed to borrow more to finish the project. That caused a problem because they hadn't told their mortgage co and that lender didn't lend on building projects.

In my limited experience you need their permission not just notification. I would ask for a copy of the T&Cs.

As I recall its a £10,000 fine. Edit: Sorry its £20,000.. https://www.gov.uk/penalties-for-employing-illegal-workers#:~:text=You can be sent to,to work in the UK.

Wales Online: Your decking is upside down and the grooves are not there for grip, experts reveal... https://www.walesonline.co.uk/news/wales-news/your-decking-upside-down-grooves-20389098

If Permitted Development Rights were removed then that just means any new extension will need a Planning Application. It doesn't mean that the application will automatically be refused. What do neighbouring houses look like? Are they bigger/smaller? Would an extension overlook them?

A lot depends on where you are in relation to the transmitter and what the terrain is like between your house and the transmitter. Sometimes you need a massive aerial on a tall mast and sometimes a short length of wet string in the living room will do. Try entering your postcode here and it will tell you which transmitter you should point at and likely signal strength. If it recommends several transmitters then check what the terrain/trees/buildings are like in those directions. Usually the first or nearest is the best choice. https://www.freeview.co.uk/corporate/detailed-transmitter-information If your insulation isn't foil covered (or its at joist level) then i would try a cheap aerial in the £20 range from Toolstation or screwfix. That way if it doesn't work you haven't lost much. In general the weaker the signal the larger the aerial you need. Having one that is too big is better than too small. I would mount it on a short mast on some plywood and stick some bricks on it. Use a compass to get it pointed in roughly the right direction. Then use the signal strength and quality bar graphs on your TV set up menu to fine tune the position and direction. Now we are all digital you can't really rely on the picture quality to set up the aerial. It might appear perfect but one rain shower later its unwatchable. Best use the signal strength and quality displays in a TV or PVR. Mark the outline of the plywood on the floor boards when happy in case it gets knocked. If you can't get a strong signal with good quality or there are other issues then you can try a different/bigger more expensive aerial but at some point its better to spend money to get a professional to sort it. Especially if the problem is technical, for example interference from another transmitter. It is rare to need an amplifier. Thats because a bigger aerial is almost always better than a small aerial and an amplifier. Amplifiers amplify noise as well as the wanted signal. If you want multiple TV points the use a "TV Distribution Amplifier" these have just enough gain to correct for losses introduced by splitting the signal multiple ways.