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Many people use a length of 110mm drainage pipe as a duct for services. The bearing ends need to be 100mm each so minimum length of lintel would be 310mm. However I don't think that's a standard length for a lintel. So better bet is to omit a block and use a 450mm long lintel on two courses of bricks either side of a 110mm pipe. Two bricks and a 65mm deep lintle should be same height as a block. If you need a wider opening opening omit two blocks and use a 900mm wide lintel on bricks. I think 900mm wide lintels might be easier to get than 450mm. 900 x 100x 65mm lintel are £11 at Wickes.

Our study/home office has a cupboard and we chose to put the CU in there along with the telephone line, modem, DECT base station and the burglar alarm panel. The meter cupboard went on an outside wall of the study. We didn't want the meter cupboard to mess up the appearance of the front of the house and the above is around the side but still accessible, so if they do send a meter reader he can get access without us being home. The location of the CU around the side also made it easy for me to run a cable out to my shed 8n the back garden later.

+1 That section 3.3.4 covers a lot. Reminder: It should be zero rated to you. You can't reclaim VAT incorrectly paid on labour. It's best to get the quote amended to show inc VAT at 0% before you accept it. I got our water main diversion zero rated after some argument with the water co.

I looked it up... Approved Document A para 1.6 refers to BS 8103-3: 2009 "Structural Design of Low-Rise Buildings - Part 3, Code of Practice for Timber Floors & Roofs for Housing". I didnt look very hard but could only find a 1996 edition of that for free. In that ... Table 3 covers the thickness of plywood flooring needed for several different timber species. Thickness varies from 15mm to 18mm. Table 4 covers the thickness of chipboard needed 18mm for 450mm pitch joists and 22mm for 600mm pitch joists.

I know the difference ? Nothing like this is in the Building Regulations. It might be in one of the Approved Documents or the many standards they refer to but I've not gone out of my way to look. I'm just reporting what I've heard, which is that people have purchased hased 14mm engineered oak and then had to put 18mm chipboard under it.

Due to an error we have a 12mm step down from engineered wood on the landing to the stone floor in our bathroom. We fitted a strip of wood with a small bevel to cover the exposed edge. Works well. Dont think anyone has ever tripped on it..

The only place I've seen it us in NHBC docs.. http://nhbccampaigns.co.uk/landingpages/techzone/previous_versions/2011/Part6/section4/sitework.htm The other situation where it matters is on top of insulation eg.. Engineered Wood Insulation DPM Sand Blind Concrete slab In such cases I have heard of the insulation turning to mush in high traffic areas if the engineered wood is too flexible. Installers frequently recommend fitting battens (the same thickness as the insulation) at doorways to provide support. The type of insulation also matters.

PS Just make sure the linear drain is well haunched so its not going anywhere when you run/rub the levelling board across it.

If the linear drain is going full length this is how I would do it.. Set up the linear drain on the hardcore with some cement first. Then next day when that's set up use it and a shuttering board to level the main concrete to the right fall. Its basically the same way you level a slab for a shed but with a slope.

What sort of sleepers have you been comparing prices with? I wouldn't use anything other than reclaimed hardwood sleepers for a retaining wall.

OT : Saw a white Tesla today and thought the reg was something like TE55 1AA but it doesnt show up on the MOT data base.

We have the following first floor.. Carpet UFH in screed 80mm Insulation 150mm beams (100mm blocks and 50mm void) Battens fixed to beams using supplied hangers Plasterboard In large living room two steels were used to reduce to span of the concrete beams. These were deeper than 150mm so the top is in the insulation. Main issue we had was the BCO wanting us to use fire rated downlights which in the days of halogen bulbs only just fitted into the void. Were happy with this but you can hear loud TV in living room below.

I've heard of people using decorative stones on the exposed faces of the gabion and something cheaper in the middle.

I don't think all of their stats have the proximity sensor... http://faq.heatmisershop.co.uk/2958602/Does-the-neoAir-v2-have-a-proximity-sensor But you need to check if that model is a suitable replacement as they make so many different versions.

Is that based on the depth of the manhole at the south west corner? One problem is that a stack should have a large radius bend at the bottom. If the pipe is only at 25mm below ground then virtually all of that bend would be above ground. I suppose if its only serving a kitchen a normal radius bend might be allowed. Will have to see what your BCO says.

https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2021/apr/25/homeowners-face-long-delays-for-kitchen-and-bathroom-fitters Homeowners face long delays for kitchen and bathroom fitters Brexit worker shortfall is being exacerbated by high demand for room revamps during Covid lockdowns Homeowners are waiting months longer than usual for bathrooms and kitchens to be installed as an industry-wide labour shortage that has been exacerbated by Brexit collides with the home improvement binge triggered by Covid-19 lockdowns. The pandemic has resulted in a huge increase in spending on homes and gardens as money traditionally spent on nights out and foreign holidays is ploughed into room revamps. However, fitters are struggling to meet the demand, and lead times for new kitchen, bathroom or wardrobes have spiralled from a pre-Covid norm of four to eight weeks to 12–18 weeks. Continues..

The CIL exemption for self builders must act as a disincentive for councils to allocate land for self build. How about the government pay councils the CIL they would otherwise get?

That may or may not work. When you flush the rnsuite WC it might syphon water from the ensure basin or other traps. The cure might be to add an AAV to/near the affected trap. AAV must be higher than the kitchen waste. If it helps .. I don't think a stack for water only has to be 110mm. I think 82mm is the minimum? If I've understood the layout... Can you install an external stack just around the corner on the east face? Then run a drain from that along the south wall picking up the ensuite as you go past.

Planks should normally be stored on strips of clean dry wood used as spacers. Be careful not to stack it too high or the weight can leave marks/indentations from the strips on the wood. Make sure no iron (tools or nails) gets left on the oak as it can react with tannin in the oak and stain badly. I left a chisel on a green oak beam over lunch once and it left a mark. I wouldn't put cement on it. If you want to weight it down I'd put a scrap plank on top and put blocks on that. As its for second fix I'd store it all in the house so it acclimatises. Unfortunately all wood can move, particularly if humidity changes.

You dont normally need planning permission for a fence between houses unless permitted development rights were removed when the house was granted permission. In some cases permitted development rights are removed on whole areas. Normally the height is measured from the highest ground immediately adjacent to the fence/building. So in short you should be ok.

Its possible you do need planning permission but the planners feel it would probably be granted if you applied. In such circumstances some councils will insist on an application to get the fee. Others will ignore the breech unless they get complaints and at that point they feel obliged to ask for a planning application just so they can tell the person complaining its all been done by the book. Best let sleeping dogs lie and hope your neighbour does likewise.

+1 Some councils have a very strict interpretation of this. It generally accepted that this covers a van used as living accommodation for site workers. However if other people live in the van some councils insist planning permission is required. For example children cannot work on building sites so cannot be site workers. Likewise a spouse that does no work on the house wouldn't be considered a site worker. So if anyone asks you all work on the site at least evenings and weekends.

I recommend getting your own survey and report done by RICS. https://hmlandregistry.blog.gov.uk/2018/02/27/drawing-the-line-on-boundaries/

If you are minded to physically stop them.. I recommend a friendly call to the local police the day before. Tell them you are worried the neighbours are going to try and move a property boundary without a court order. Say you know its a civil matter but you are concerned they may cause a breech of the peace. Say you are just letting them know in case you have to call them tomorrow. Try and sound as reasonable and calm as possible. Then call them the moment the neighbours start banging in posts. PS If you allow them to take possession it will be down to you to take court action rather than them.

I would ask the planners if they would accept phasing as an amendment to the existing PP. Some councils favour self builds, others not so it's hard to know how co-operative they may be, especially as they will be loosing money.