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Papers just waking up... https://www.theguardian.com/business/2021/may/08/cost-of-building-work-on-uk-homes-to-rise-as-price-of-materials-soars

Normally the planners have 4 years to initiate enforcement action. However where the breech involves a change of use (eg agricultural land to residential) then that increases to 10 years. After those 10 years has passed they cannot make the owner remove the building. But the building doesn't gain Permitted Development rights so its harder to extend or replace with something bigger. If it was a mobile home then the owner effectively gains the right to continue to live in a mobile home on the land. There is no automatic right to replace it with a more permanent building.

Says this article... https://inews.co.uk/news/end-of-the-road-gas-boilers-researchers-give-thumbs-down-to-hydrogen-heating-989230 "Hydrogen power should reserved for powering aircraft and large factories, say experts, dashing hopes gas industry could pivot to piping hydrogen into homes..." Continues..

Converting dormers to gables can make a house look much bigger in elevations even though the floor area is similar or unchanged. If this isn't the problem i think I would press on with the application and appeal if necessary. I've not heard of the planers ever trying to significantly reduce the size of a house compared to an existing house. I suppose it might have happened when a house was knocked down before making an application to build new - because then there isnt an existing house anymore.

Just finished running a scarifier over my lawn. Think I managed to get all of the grass out of the moss ?

Ah OK. I've tiled a small roof onto battens myself and it can be a bit of work planning and setting out the tile battens. I can see it would be easier if you can just nail them on anywhere.

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50mm is the normal spec for the ventilation gap on a cold roof. Not quite sure why you need sarking boards on a SIP roof? I know they are more common on traditional roofs in Scotland but isn't that for structural reasons? Don't the SIPS already deal with this?

I did a quick breakdown of what I might expect the materials for the outside stack option to be.. this is very rough estimate. I'm not sure what the input valve would be for. Above ground.. 110mm 12m black soil pipe - £50 110mm branch (2?) - £ 30 110mm 90 degree bend (2?) -£20 50 mm 3m black pipe for bath/basin - £ 10 Assorted 50mm bends/connectors (?) - £10 Cap/cage for stack £3 Underground... Rest Bend - £ 10 to £20 110mm 6m Brown soil pipe - £20 110mm bends (2?) - £ 20 110mm plastic to China coupling - £5 Bulk bag gravel ? - £40 ? Cement to support rest bend? Yes I could see the materials being £250-£300. Perhaps a bit less if not all the bends are required.

Wood expands and contracts with the seasons. I wouldn't be surprised if that 1mm gap dissappear in summer and widens in winter. Its very unlike to be the cause of any deflection in the floor when walked on.

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It sounds like that manhole is in the main sewer that runs along the backs of several houses (explains that constant flow when your taps are off). If there are no other manholes its possible your connections to the sewer are all via branches rather than manholes. Its possible your neighbour downstream has a similar manhole - you might detect water from your taps in that one. I think you need to keep looking for someone that does drainage work in your area.

This is a rough idea of what I would expect you to end up with. Ive not shown the connections for the bath/basin but they would either connect into the new branch or possibly another above it. I'd replace all the grey pipe with new black. Brown pipe underground.

Ideally you want to prove that water from both the upstairs bath and downstairs WC end up in the same pipe/manhole. Doesn't matter where it is. This is to rule out the remote possibility that the upstairs bath water currently goes to a soakaway (You can't put poo in a soakaway). Assuming everything ends up in the same sewer eventually then.... Thats what we expected. The question is where does it go next. Ideally you would find a manhole not far away from the gulley with bath water flowing through it. That will tell you where the pipe from upstairs goes after the gulley. Perhaps you already found that manhole but your post wasn't clear on this.

I used this type on an outbuilding but on mine all the black stuff is on the inside.. https://www.toolstation.com/long-throw-gate-lock/p52372?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=Cj0KCQjwp86EBhD7ARIsAFkgakhCVrvZ_3nryTR0a9cICJhYXkkaePU4vwvE-yfdICZZNw7RAn-txQUaAlgGEALw_wcB https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gate-Lock-5-Keys-50mm-Concise-Home-Double-Long-Throw-Garden-Locking-Both-Sides/293557505360?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&toolid=10050&campid=5338358731&customid=Cj0KCQjwp86EBhD7ARIsAFkgakhM3tLdxLFAwMewSNyDBp_ZGVOHN4k9zqR2hpAW1aqAChrgdEGsVXAaAkZlEALw_wcB&pageci=5dbf2e67-412c-4920-9c87-4964c6eafed1&redirect=mobile On the one I have the brass barrel goes right through the door so can be locked/unlocked from either side.

Many years ago (13) I found this company very helpful when I needed special register plates for a woodburner. When I visited them there were signs up about Hetas training courses they were either running or organising. They seem to know their stuff. Perhaps give them a try.. https://www.specflue.com/ https://www.specflue.com/product-info

+1 Pretty much same as us. Nearest pole to us was other side of neighbours driveway on a country road. My builder had a word with them and just went ahead and dug a trench 20 yards down the road, put in a duct and cable and had it all refilled before anyone could say "permit?" We left enough of a coil to reach the top with some to spare. Had a bit more trouble getting it connected but that was only because their computer said they had already done it.

I don't mean any disrespect. I just meant I don't think planning officers do the validation check themselves.

I think their choice suits the house design but can understand its not everyone's taste. I once visited an architect designed house that was ultra modern on the outside with large metal windows and modern cladding.... but judging by the interior the owner really wanted a country cottage. It had oak cottage doors and flowery tiles. Can you post some examples from your mood board?

Yes. As I recall its just a tick box exercise. Its possible not every planning application in that county needs a Coal Authority Risk Assessment so this may not be on the local list of mandatory documents. Its my belief that the validation check is done by junior admin staff or possibly even outsourced to the company that scans them into electronic format.

I note he said "should" not "must". Did he write a long speel to justify his point of view? If not then I would just submit the application and in that refer to the 2010 decision on the width. I would also point out that converting the barn from a shop to a dwelling will reduce the amount of traffic using the entrance compared to 2010 levels - if thats true. Sometimes the fire brigade will also have a view. Is your plot further from the narrow entrance?

I think the key here is to try and make it a totally self contained unit that could be sold off as a separate dwelling in the future. Eg spell that out in the part q paperwork. You don't have to split the title if you dont want to but you should ensure any planning grant doesn't preclude it. Not only does that make it possible to reclaim the VAT but adds significant value for the future.

My bet is they only looked at your application last week when they realised their decision deadline was approaching. They can now claim the deadline doesnt apply as your application was incomplete. Our planners also told us 24 hours before deadline that they wanted changes. This despite spending over a year at the preapplication advice stage. Fortunately they were trivial and my architect was able to get revised drawings to them same day. A few years later one of the planning officers made a comment that he thought the house looked nice and that his department had "done a good job". I had to bite my tongue. They have no shame.

I put reciepts in plastic sleeves. Where i had to make changes i added a note with something like "Deduction for returned items" on it with my calculation. On the spreadsheet I just put the results of my calculation.

You could go option 2 but include in the Design and Access Statement a few paragraphs and perhaps a drawing showing an alternative design that would be allowed under the new extra storey PDR. You can say you have ruled out this option in favour of the current application because you think it would be out of keeping etc. I'm sure your architect could make that look as horrible as possible. Hint to neighbours you have had interest from a developer who likes that option. See if they will support your preferred design after all.