Temp

+1 to a temporary kitchen. My brother set one up in his dining room while his kitchen was replaced. Think he also used the Aldi induction hobs but there are similar on Amazon. Can be used later for outdoor/BBQ etc if you have an outdoor socket.

Do you have a site plan or at least an aerial view from Google maps. It's hard to visualise where things are. Which way is that photo looking? Towards the road? Away from the road? Is the turning circle going where you are standing? How wide is the verge? Road speed limit? Is the turning circle going outside the gates in the verge area or inside the gates? If it's going in the picture it looks like you might need to dig into the bank quite a lot to make a turning circle. In which case some sort of retaining wall would be necessary. These can be quite expensive so would help to know why you need a turning circle at the entrance end? Is that your fence at top the bank?

Sometimes the weight on the bath feet cause the OSB flooring to bend. It only has to bend a little for gaps to open up around the edge. To prevent this you can put a sheet of say 18mm WBP under the feet.

I think it will be fine. My guess is the cardboard didn't support the tile offcut enough and point loading from the stove caused it to crack.

Not quite sure what that "leg" is doing but yes thats the area the water is probably getting under. In earlier photo the gap looks small so perhaps something like waterproof grease on the underside of the chrome block/leg would be enough. Edit is the leg sprung loaded so it presses down?

As for the taps.. It's near impossible to run sealer around after the taps are fitted as the wall is too close. I would have them off, sealer on bottom of taps and refit. Wipe off any that squeezes out from under them.If you go easy on the sealer none may squeeze out but depends on the design.

I doubt it. That would only extend the deflector towards the wall/hinge. The deflector only really helps if it causes water to drip into the recessed part of the bath/shower tray rather than on the flat top. The water proofing is mostly provided by vertical vanes on the bottom of the door seal. Check these go as far towards the hinge as possible but I thing it might still get under the rectangular chrome block that moves with the door.

+1 Perhaps there already is an AAV on the WC and its faulty?

I think if you hired a company to demolish and clear site then their services to you should be zero rated.

If It does come back I would make the 1m offer conditional on them paying any costs associated with changing title deeds and or fencing/moving hedges etc

Could solder it in.

Lot depends on how complicated the design is. Simple rectangular houses with simple pitched roofs are cheaper than L shape with lots of dormers or similar complexities.

Here you go.. https://www.rubi.com/en/blog/how-to-choose-the-right-tile-trowel-size-step-by-step/

I briefly considered mixing different suppliers for cistern and flush valve but I think some pneumatic flush valves are incompatible eg the way they do dual flush differs. Think some do.. Single flush 1,0 Dual flush 1,1 And others do.. Single flush 1,0 Dual flush 0,1 If you get what I mean.

No idea if any good.. https://www.bathroomplanet.com/product/vitra-loop-t-flush-plate.html?vid=14873&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8vqGBhC_ARIsADMSd1Cpd_8hKMz_RUbkXfiYM2LffeIZGwe10v5vamp7K80JsFAhi51Vm4oaAhyqEALw_wcB Buy two (one as a spare)?

Sand off the chrome and paint it yourself?

The executors should know if he's getting FIT income. They can check bank statements etc. If you rent out your roof do they put anything in your title deeds? Incidentally I hear probate is taking a long time at the moment.

Planning Permission, dropped kerb and CIL are all done by the local authority. Building Control can be done by the Local Authority BCO or a private company. My understanding is that if you use a private BCO they will notify the LABCO for you. So send all the drawings to the private BCO. Normally you send drawings and an application to whoever is doing your BCA and wait. They should eventually either approve your drawings, ask for changes, ask for more info or reject them. In some cases you may have to chase them up if they are busy. What a lot of people do is wait awhile then ask if they can start some work on site while they wait. In some cases people have dug foundation trenches but you should not fill them until the BCO has inspected them. Just be aware the BCO might decide you need piled foundations or more info so any work you do while waiting could be wasted. The BCO should make a certain number of site visits during construction. I recommend you are there when he does one. Make a list of any issues he raises and any solutions you agree. Also ask him when he wants you to call him back for the next one. He will say something like "When you are at first floor level". Follow up with a letter or email ASAP thanking him for his visit, summarising these issues, and confirming you will let him know when you have reached the point when he wants you to call him back. If you can't be there get your builder to do this and copy you. Its not unknown for a BCO to tell the builder to fix something and instead the builder covers it up. Try and be polite to the BCO and keep him on your side, especially if they ask for easy changes. You might need him to bend the rules a bit later on when it would be expensive if he insists you comply.

Looks like your SE has suggested a mix of C and box sections from them specifically. Lots of info on their site.. https://www.ancon.co.uk/products/windposts

Cement screed is good as there can be issues with anhydrate screed.. https://www.bal-adhesives.com/tiling-onto-calcium-sulfate-anhydrite-screeds/ 1. I don't believe you need an expansion joint at that size (unless tiling through from one room into another). 2. We have stone direct onto cement screed using flexible adhesive. I have seen decoupling membrane recommended for large format tiles as screed can sometimes shrink and damage them. Only issue i can think of is that perhaps the sun might cause rapid temperature changes in a conservatory? 3. Recommendations vary. Typically one day per mm thickness. Some places say one day per mm upto 40mm then two days per mm for the rest. Eg 60mm would be (1*40) + (2×20) = 80 days. Some places say a lot sooner. Have seen people suggest use a decoupling membrane to allow them to cheat a bit on the drying time. 4. 10mm rounded is ok. Should leave a 3-4mm thick adhesive layer when tiles fully bedded. Make sure there is enough adhesive under the corners of tiles. 5. Normally perimeter insulation is fitted before screening to reduce heat loss and prevent any expansion of the screed damaging walls. This is typically a blue roll 8-12mm thick. The exposed top is trimmed back after the screed has dried and covered with skirting after tiling. So yes leave a 5-8mm gap around tiles for same reasons. 6. Seal grout after fully dry to make cleaning easier. Consider dark coloured grout? Aside: Alkaline cleaners seem to work best for cleaning dirty grout. I'm not a professional tiler. Opinions vary on all this!

It can be zero rated to you but only if its done after you get planning permission. That's implied in VAT708 where it says..

Did some googling and found a few people asking the same question. Some replies said yes the door must open from the inside without a key but when challanged about the regulations nobody was able to cite what regulation required that. Several said it was mandatory for an HMO. Approved documents sometimes refer to BS standards so perhaps its in one of them? Perhaps try asking a few door manufacturers to see if they know?

We don't have one on any external doors. BCO never said anything when he signed off our house but he was quite laid back about everything.

I bet many people measure the height at the sides and forget to measure in the middle.

PS The overlap doesn't have to be in the middle. Eg 2.7m length in the middle with two short lengths either side.