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Thinnest I've ever seen recommended was 40mm but that was with an UFH system that meant the 40mm was all above the pipes. Screed can crack where two rooms meet at a doorway. This is due to the screed in each room shrinking towards its own centre eg pulling apart at the door way. So that crack might not be due to the thickness but 30mm isn't enough. What's going on top? Tiles - risky. Carpet - who knows. Engineered wood flooring - probably ok if thick enough (eg >18mm).

Restrictive covenants and overage clauses are normally only problem if the lender thinks they affect the value of the property to the point where the LTV is unacceptable or possibly the wording means they see the potential for legal problems. In which case I think you should be concerned about this for the same reasons. Executors have a duty to look after the interests of beneficiaries so if the wording is affecting the value of the assets negatively they have the powers to change things.

He's only shown one SVP in each room but you should consider if that's the best approach. Its' not a bad starting point if you dont yet know the room layout. These days floor insulation and screed is quite thick but you might want to check there is enough depth to accommodate a shower tray trap and the fall to the stack without having to raise the shower tray up on a plinth. Perhaps you dont mind a plinth or perhaps you want wet rooms? Sometimes you end up needing the connection into the stack very low down or even in the slab. You wouldnt be the first person to have to chip out concrete from around the stack to get the connection low enough for the shower. Consider making some room layouts to work out how far the shower trap would be from the stack. Then make cross sectional drawings showing the shower tray/trap, pipe fall, and branch connection into the stack to work out if its going to be an issue. An SVC in the corner and a WC pan with a horizontal P-trap outlet is easier overall than using a WC pan with a vertical S-trap outlet. With the former everything is above slab but you have pipes to hide. With the latter you need a connection coming up vertically through the floor but this needs to be just the right distance from the wall and makes layout changes later. There are many ways to skin that cat. Some people have no problem with boxing, some hide the pipe in cabinets, some build false walls, some hide the cistern as well as the pipe. Some use wall mounted pans. What @Nickfromwalessaid. The middle ones can be short stub stacks with AAV. Only other comments i have is that he shows the red drain running under the house. Is there any reason why it can't be run along outside the footprint ?

I think i would speak to the vendor and try and persuade them not to impose the overage or at least change the wording to make it more standard. They appear to be devaluing the property by making it hard to get a mortgage. A paddock came with our plot. Its got a very simple/standard overage clause on the paddock part only. Wasn't raised as a problem by anyone.

"Planning Consultants" in Yellow pages worked for us 13 years ago. Just ring up a few and ask if they can handle a (possibly) urgent CLUED.

Got any photos? Can you put a hose out of one velux to test another?

Good luck but from what I hear toughened glass is likely to shatter. Would it fit another window? Can you modify the window opening?

Err.. Does the plot already have a house on it? eg so that boundary walls and gates can be done under PDR for that house? If not I would hold off on those.

If you decide to start... Normally they like you to have dug and filled foundation trenches to secure your PP but officially I think anything that counts as development would do. Perhaps ask your planning officer if you can get hold of him. Remember you may have to get some planning conditions discharged first. Read the planning grant to see what they are. Typically you might need to get brick samples approved or ?? You may also need to get Building Control Approval to start. This might involve submit an application with drawings and the fee and waiting. The BCO might take a month or longer. Try and avoid complaining . It would be better to wait a few weeks and ask politely if you can start digging foundations while he is reviewing the application rather than pushing him to approve the whole package. One option might be to dig foundation trenches more than 3m away from the neighbours and insert rebar into the dirt at the ends of the trench to reinforce joints. Discuss with your SE if you have one. I don't believe they can make you get a PWA agreement before you start. Is the CIL an issue in your area? If so you also have to claim the exemption before starting work.

There is no penalty for not complying with the Party Wall Act but if a neighbour decided that a hair line crack was your fault and took you to court the judge might look less favourably on you. Read this.. https://plainview.co.uk/news/help-my-planning-permission-is-about-to-expire-what-are-my-next-steps/ You can't apply for an extension anymore. You can only resubmit. Yes the planners will consult the neighbour but that shouldn't matter. If the proposal was acceptable in planning terms last time it should be acceptable this time unless... Planning policy has changed. You make changes that make it unacceptable. Someone raises a valid planing issue that wasn't considered last time around. Note that only valid planning reasons are counted. The fact that a neighbour doesn't like something or it devalues his house are not valid reasons and should be ignored by the planners. Loss of privacy or light might be a valid objection. Ive been at a planning committee meeting where some daft members have objected on grounds that don't count. They voted down an application and the poor planning officer then has to think up valid reasons to put in the actual rejection letter. If he didn't do that and put down invalid reasons the applicant could appeal any might well win.

Timber lintels were used for hundreds of years and many modern buildings use laminated timber. They can work fine if correctly specified but thats the issue. Normally the designer would specify the make up of the lintel laminations and how they are fixed together and supported at the ends. Those details are important. 47 x 150 Eased is typically 45 x 145mm. So three would be 135mm with a 10mm gap. I wouldn't think its an issue as less than 7 % gap but we are comparing varieties of apple when the designer might require bannas. Who has checked 3 x 47 x 150 is adequate? Its not good to rely on the BCO.

No. There was a case where the owner was building a house that had a planning condition preventing separate occupation (eg it was a holiday home in garden). Half way through they got the PP amended to allow separate occupation making it eligible for the VAT reclaim. HMRC declined the the VAT reclaim on everything purchased before the PP was amended. I think the reclaim form asks for the date PP was granted. They can check this against dates on the receipts. If the CIL has been implemented in your area then do not start any work on site until you have got PP and done the exemption claim or you will loose the exemption and that can be v.expensive.

It looks like Ronseal may have discontinued their General Purpose wood preserver that I've been using. Anyone know if their "Total" range is similar? I've just wasted £ on their Shed and Fence Preserver and its just not what I'm looking for at all. Its like its pigment rather than a die.

+1 Guide here. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200187/your_responsibilities/37/planning_permission/3 See also the links on the bottom left for other things you will need to include (eg plans). There are plenty of other guides on the web. If you miss the deadline and they initiate enforcement then appeal it on the same grounds. Planning Officers in many areas are enormously overloaded and some don't even work full time so contacting them by phone can be nearly impossible.

Welcome to the forum. The creaks and pops sound like nails to me. Problem is they might be nails he used to fix down his floor rather than those holding up your ceiling. Does it occur in just one or two places or everywhere? If its localised you could try putting in a few screws yourself in that area.

I think I would cut the hole, test fit bath, remove bath and tile up to the edge of the hole. Grout tiles. Sealer around the edge of hole and fit bath. Adjust any feet under the bath. But as I said above, check the bath makers instructions first.

Just a heads up.. Ask them but elsewhere people have said Megabad don't export to the UK anymore since Brexit. You will need to find out from the maker of the bath how its meant to be supported. Many come with adjustable feet that must be used to carry the weight. Not always shown on drawings. The best procedure is to make a strong frame from 2x4 and fit a WBP top with cut out for the bath. Fit the bath and adjust the feet. Then fit a removable side panel. You might need to reinforce the floor as the feet create point loads on the floor. More WBP can be used yo spread the load. The more rigid everything is the longer any sealer will last. If the bath or floor moves or flexes when you get in and out the sealer won't last as long. Personally I hate cleaning and replacing mouldy sealers and tile grout so we opted for a free standing bath with wall mounted tap when we built our place.

+1 I'd take the cover off and either measure the switch or estimate the size of the panel cut out. Compare with dimensions on ebay.

Your SE will most likely ask for a soil condition report with lab tests. These should show if the clay shrinks or not. That and the presence of trees will determine the foundation design. If you need trenches over 3m deep then piled foundations may work out cheaper and easier. I recommend getting a percolation test done at the same time as the soil report. If you already have access to an excavator and driver offer that as it will reduce cost.

Sorry I meant is it limiting the flow rate to keep the pressure down to about 12m head.

+1 Not all clay is a problem. We"re on clay and have trees close on two sides. SE looked at ground condition report and decided we only needed trench foundations lined with compressible board for the house but the garage needed small piles due to old pond. House few doors down needed very deep piles for some reason so the SE probably saved us a lot.

I think its very likely the flush is a lift valve type rather than a syphon so just reach in through the face plate hole and lift the tube. Rapid SL video..

Back of the envelope friction loss.... 2.3m^3/hrs is about 0.64L/s Pressures loss chart on the web say expect 24mbar per meter at that rate in 22mm pipe. You have 70m so expect at least 0.024* 70 = 1.7 bar loss in the pipe alone. Am I right in thinking 1.7 bar is about 17m head? (0.1 bar per meter). Is the pump limiting pressure to about 12m head?