Temp

It a matter of degree. The planners may argue that this would mean more vehicles will be using a dangerous access. Potentially double the number at present.

I have an old style transformer based stick welder. Had issues with it occasionally tripping the 16A breaker in my shed CU. Only when striking an arc first time when the welder is cold. This happens even when welding at very low currents like 40A. Think its an inrush thing.

I stand by earlier opinion that it must have planning permission to be a separate dwelling to qualify for zero rating for VAT. If it doesnt get planning for that then effectively it is an out building, detached annex or granny flat, call it whatever you want but it won't be zero rated for VAT. @newhome quoted the rules from the government website. If you think you have seen something that states otherwise please post a link. I believe your best bet is to apply for planning permission for a "New Dwelling". On the site plan I would show the separate road access and show a plot boundary (eg where you would put a fence if it was going to be sold off seperately). You would not actually have to sell it off or even errect a fence. That merely establishes the site boundary for planning purposes. I would not show a "workshop" on the plans either, call it a double garage or games room or something else that new dwellings normally have. You can decide to use the double garage/games room as a workshop later without needing new planning permission (unless its for business use). It's irrelevant to the planners how you do the services but they will matter to Building Control later. If planning is granted for the above then, because you could sell it off as a separate dwelling, it would qualify for zero rating for VAT and almost certainly add the most value. However it you would not qualify for the self builder exemption from the CIL unless your family member lives in it for three years as their primary residence.

Would the neighbours prefer he parked his van on the road outside his gates as that looks like his alternative if the dropped kerb access is refused.

+1 If it can't be sold as a separate dwelling it won't qualify for zero rating by a builder There was even a case where someone was granted pp for an annex but there was a condition that said it couldn't be sold seperately. Half way through construction they got the planing condition removed. HMRC said that only materials purchased after the condition was removed could be reclaimed.

Officially they are only needed for charity buildings. So the one in VAT 708 here needs editing a bit for self builds. The exact wording isn't critical just make sure it has your details and that of the planning application etc. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708#section18

Problem is the condition only requires you to get approval for the design of the access. It doesnt say anything about the design required. That doesn't mean they dont care about it. We had to get our bricks approved. The condition didn't say anything about their preference for the bricks. I found some nice but expensive hand made bricks. Sales Rep said they had never been refused. Well our planning officer refused them saying they had too much texture.

You can try and argue but he will have a reason for wanting the layby, presumably traffic speeds are a bit high? In the end I think you will either have to provide what they want or ask them to formally refuse to discharge the condition. If they formally refuse to discharge the condition you can appeal that refusal (subject to a 6 month time limit). The Appeal Inspector has the power to accept your alternative proposal but beware because they can also impose new ones or make them more onerous. Worse? To win at appeal you would have to show that the condition failed one of the six tests for conditions in the NPPF.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/use-of-planning-conditions If you want to appeal i would try to make a case for more than one of those tests not being met. You should also consider hiring a planning consultant first to give his opinion on your chances and possibly handle the appeal.

How hot does the TS need to be to heat your house? Can you just run it cooler? For example DHW from a shower should be less than 48C. So a TS temperature of 45 to 50C should be just about ok for DHW. Is that too low to heat the house or too high for ASHP?

This for the 357 says same.. https://underfloorheatingsupply.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Single-room-underfloor-heating-control.pdf

The pdf here has a graph which suggests the boiler return can indeed be reduced to zero.. https://www.underfloorshop.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Reliance-Single-Room-Pump-Pack.pdf Edit: sorry that a 352 not a 357.

Can you post the exact wording of the condition. It normally says you must get the details approved or similar.

Side extensions can be PD. Must be some other reason? Forward of the front elevation?

Its mainly to stop the screed loosing water. Helps prevent cracking. Some recommend putting a temporary sheet of plastic on top of the screed as soon as you can walk on it to control the drying process for same reason. I recommend expansion gaps in the screed at doorways. Otherwise when the screed in each room shrinks towards its centre you can get a curved crack where they meet at the doorway. Can be a problem if tiling.

More in the regs here.. not sure it these are the latest version.. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2010/948/part/4/made?view=plain Transfer of assumed liability 32.—(1) A person who has assumed liability to pay CIL in respect of a chargeable development (P1) may transfer that assumption of liability to another person (P2) by submitting a liability transfer notice to the collecting authority. (2) A liability transfer notice must— (a)be submitted in writing on a form published by the Secretary of State (or a form to substantially the same effect); and (b)include the particulars specified or referred to in the form. (3) A liability transfer notice must be received by the collecting authority no later than the day on which the final payment of CIL is due in respect of the chargeable development. (4) On receiving a valid liability transfer notice the collecting authority must send an acknowledgement of its receipt to P1 and P2. (5) On the day on which the collecting authority receives a valid liability transfer notice, P2— (a)is deemed to have assumed liability to pay CIL in respect of the chargeable development; and (b)becomes liable to pay the outstanding amount of CIL payable in respect of the chargeable development. (6) A liability transfer notice is valid if it complies with the requirements of paragraph (2).

Yes either paid or the exemption claimed and accepted before the build starts.

I suspect some of this is untested in court. 3 - You can certainly transfer the cil liability or exemption any time before you claim the exemption. After that I'm not sure. So get finances in place after getting PP and before claiming the exemption and definitly before starting work. 4 - No. I believe once you start work you have to finish and live there 3 years or it becomes payable.

Careful because in some places it says.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/community-infrastructure-levy#para082 The exemption process involves accepting liability for the CIL and then claiming the exemption. I would put just one of your names on the CIL paperwork. Eg The person who is likely to live there the longest.

I think that sounds like best idea. Just seal around where the new pipe comes in and put a cover over the top.

To deal with the alignment i would try using two fixed bends and a short length of pipe first. There are adjustable bends but not sure if others approve of their use. Normally they are buried in the ground which provides support.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-adjustable-bend-0-90-110mm/14451?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700055281954505&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjw3MSHBhB3EiwAxcaEu1RK45UZ0tkaHJtzTJZ7lSTpk_nEEu5kpYt2C1btrDPyvjLmux2vgBoCH10QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Might be worth posting a picture of the manifold. Some types have a built in bypass.

During start up the mixer is most likely wide open as the return will be cold. It will start to close as the floor reaches the set temperature. Its most likely to close if you wait until the floor is hot then turn the mixer temperature down. In that condition the return temperature might be hotter than the set temperature. I don't think they fully close as some manifolds have an over temperature sensor that turns off the loop pump to protect certain types of floor covering and feet.

There are two things here... The bottom of the trench should normally be 750 or 1m down.. https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/advice/foundation-systems-and-soil-types#:~:text=Strip%2C trench fill or pad,to 3m may be necessary. Then there is the thickness of the concrete... Many people go for what are called Trench Fill foundations. This does not mean fully filling the trench. With trench fill foundations the services go through the concrete rather than block walls above so the concrete must be at least 500mm thick or risk cracking where pipes go through. In practice the trenches are filled with enough concrete to get to a convenient multiple of bricks and block courses below DPC which is 150mm above ground level. It is that and/or the 500mm minimum that sets the thickness of the concrete. If you go for traditional strip with services through the block walls you can go thinner than 500mm. The normal range is 150mm to 500mm but this needs input from your SE.

Welcome to self building! Someone should have told you that managing people is the hard part. ? Given a choice I would keep the BCO happy rather than the ground workers. You might need the BCO to be more flexible later. So I would try to meet his 60mm per meter maximum if you can.