Temp

Cement screed is good as there can be issues with anhydrate screed.. https://www.bal-adhesives.com/tiling-onto-calcium-sulfate-anhydrite-screeds/ 1. I don't believe you need an expansion joint at that size (unless tiling through from one room into another). 2. We have stone direct onto cement screed using flexible adhesive. I have seen decoupling membrane recommended for large format tiles as screed can sometimes shrink and damage them. Only issue i can think of is that perhaps the sun might cause rapid temperature changes in a conservatory? 3. Recommendations vary. Typically one day per mm thickness. Some places say one day per mm upto 40mm then two days per mm for the rest. Eg 60mm would be (1*40) + (2×20) = 80 days. Some places say a lot sooner. Have seen people suggest use a decoupling membrane to allow them to cheat a bit on the drying time. 4. 10mm rounded is ok. Should leave a 3-4mm thick adhesive layer when tiles fully bedded. Make sure there is enough adhesive under the corners of tiles. 5. Normally perimeter insulation is fitted before screening to reduce heat loss and prevent any expansion of the screed damaging walls. This is typically a blue roll 8-12mm thick. The exposed top is trimmed back after the screed has dried and covered with skirting after tiling. So yes leave a 5-8mm gap around tiles for same reasons. 6. Seal grout after fully dry to make cleaning easier. Consider dark coloured grout? Aside: Alkaline cleaners seem to work best for cleaning dirty grout. I'm not a professional tiler. Opinions vary on all this!

It can be zero rated to you but only if its done after you get planning permission. That's implied in VAT708 where it says..

Did some googling and found a few people asking the same question. Some replies said yes the door must open from the inside without a key but when challanged about the regulations nobody was able to cite what regulation required that. Several said it was mandatory for an HMO. Approved documents sometimes refer to BS standards so perhaps its in one of them? Perhaps try asking a few door manufacturers to see if they know?

We don't have one on any external doors. BCO never said anything when he signed off our house but he was quite laid back about everything.

I bet many people measure the height at the sides and forget to measure in the middle.

PS The overlap doesn't have to be in the middle. Eg 2.7m length in the middle with two short lengths either side.

I've never seen these used but down this page they suggest a 6-8" overlap.. https://www.masonrymagazine.com/blog/2015/06/24/joint-reinforcement-less-is-more/

My Aunt is the same. Even unplugs her landline phone.

We use a night light plugged into a socket. Has a sensor to turn it on automatically when it gets dark. Fitted with an LED bulb it consumes very little power. Probably not worth having a motion sensor built in as they probably consume more power than just leaving the LED on all night. Edit: Think our night lights are around 0.5 W and a typical indoor PIR sensor is 1-3W.

According to their web site Wickes Northampton and Peterborough each have 450+ bags of general purpose cement in stock but its "Not available on click and collect". Presumably its all spoken for but might be worth a try if anyone desperate.

I'm struggling to get someone to paint a few windows. First three calls I made only one replied and came to look. He didnt seem keen and two weeks later no quote. Today I called another three and only one go back to me. He is coming to look totomorrow Think he might be Polish.

+1 I was looking at the figures here.. https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/ Kerosene 4.59 p/kWh LPG 7.55p p/kWh If they are correct a £1000 Oil bill becomes an LPG bill of £1644 not allowing for improvement in boiler efficiency.

https://metro.co.uk/2018/06/05/time-can-builders-start-work-uk-according-law-7606799/ Highlights.. What time can builders start work in the UK according to the law – and can they work on Sundays? The times at which noisy work is allowed differs across the country – because the Control of Pollution Act 1974 gave Local Authorities the power to control noise from construction sites and similar areas. Whilst these do vary across different councils, the standard hours during which noisy work is acceptable is usually between 8am and 6pm, Monday to Friday. On Saturdays, builders are generally allowed to work between 8am and 1pm, but this can vary slightly with different councils. On Sundays and on Bank Holidays, there is less specific guidance on hours, but most councils say that there should be no noisy work taking place. Although these are good guidelines, it is worth checking your Local Authority website as they can alter slightly, e.g. Cheshire East which states its Saturday hours are 9am to 2pm.

+1 Much thicker.

Personally I doubt switching to a new LPG boiler will save a lot. Think I would spend money on insulation.

+1 Just check the 7N blocks are recommended for below DPC. Most but not all are.

+1 to all that. Only oak posts stand much chance of lasting 25 years in the ground. We have pressure treated 100mm fence posts rotting after just 8 years. If you need to cut any pressure treated wood to length, try and leave the cut ends dipped in a bucket of creosote or similar wood preserver over night.

Edit: Actually the way the die is adjusted is probably different at that size.

If you've cut threads before you may already know how to do it but.. Clean up the outside of the pipe to remove any old paint or cement etc first. Adjust the die. Most die have a gap for a tapered screw so they can be adjusted looser/tighter. I would open it up to make the initial cut easier and do it in several passes tightening the die a little each time. Lubricate the die with oil. Back off the die regularly. Eg half a turn forward, quarter turn back, repeat. Perhaps even smaller steps if it gets tight. Looks like you might have to go slow anyway due to the proximity of the walls. Clean oil off. Perhaps paint marks on the pipe and floor first so you can clearly see if its turning.

Sorry no, its was quite a few years ago.

The figure to look at is the lumen output. Around 400-500 lumen is equivalent to a 50W GU10. I usually go for Warm White versions.

Conventional deep recessed downlights are rather out dated now. There are now quite a few surface mounted or shallow recessed LED lights worth looking at. Stuff like this although not for a sloping ceiling.. https://hartingtonheath.com/product/i-lumos-led-6-watt-round-recessed-lighting-panel-ultraslim-ceiling-light/?gclid=CjwKCAjwoNuGBhA8EiwAFxomAz3-cAj4jHcGoAhA-ry4HI2EjMIkKsKUW7BRJ22doJDE3kBz7A0nVhoCPKkQAvD_BwE

My guess is you don't have a lot of height to spare as making the roof thicker reduces the pitch due to the window. Is it steep enough for the tiles? I'm thinking build it as a cold roof with all the insulation between the rafters. Fully fill them. Use a vapour permeable membrane that is approved for use in contact with the insulation (think kingspan do one). Then counter battens and tile battens. Ventilation needed under the tiles but not under the membrane if its vapour permeable. Put a vapour barrier on the inside.

Insulation above rafters makes it warm roof. You can have some insulation between them as well but care is needed because this effectively "moves" the rafters nearer the cold side. I think the rule of thumb is no more than 1/3rd of the insulation between the rafters and 2/3rds above? For safety some sort of condensation risk analysis should be done.

+1 We filled in the web both sides and used similar joist hangers with long tail that wrapped over the top of the I beam and were nailed both sides.