Temp

Were in the Huntingdon area so too far away to recommend anyone. Think our builder is retired now anyway. You can also try local Estate Agents. They will probably know who builds nice houses in your area. Do your own checks on anyone they recommend.

I didn't really mean buy them separately but rather approach the seller to see if he would consider selling you a bit more than what is in the listing. He may not have considered selling a paddock with the plot. Agricultural land is quite cheap so it might not add much to the cosr. Especially if you agree an overage. On the other hand the neighbour may no longer be the owner. Sometimes there is quite a back story for why people are selling. Lot depends what you want the extra land for. The planning rules prevent you easily turning a paddock into an extension of your garden, but if you are horsey then having a paddock next door is perfect.

I think most seats are 450-460 from hinge to front edge. How about... Keep the frame but ditch the cistern so the frame can be moved back (waste pipe allowing?). Then fit the cistern high up in cabinetry. Effectively recessing the frame and WC into the "wall".

Back in 2007 we purchased a 0.5 acre plot with 1 acre paddock for around £275k but its in a village in central England. Looking on a few web sites I think similar plots in Sussex are £500-800K now. This caught my eye in passing.. £295k https://www.rightmove.co.uk/commercial-property-for-sale/property-109470968.html It looks like the seller may own more agricultural land on one side (edged in blue)? Perhaps ask if they would sell you a paddock as well?

Welcome to the forum. 0.5-2 acres is a very large plot, presumably you mean "plot with paddock" or similar as 2 acres with PP on the lot could be £millions.

We found our builder by driving around the area looking at nice houses that were being built. We just stopped and asked to talk to the boss. Explained we were looking for a builder and asked if we could look around. All said yes. Ask questions. You can learn a lot from how they answer your questions. Some were very patronising. Some sites were a mess. Look for things like neat plumbing, staircases protected against damage etc. Builders Merchants won't normally recommend a builder but once you have a short list you can try chatting with counter staff. Tell them you're looking for a builder and ask if there is anyone on your list they have heard of. I got a variety of responses from "We can't comment" to "I would let him work on my house".

Problem is you can get C16 that is Nominally 145 x 45 but actually 140 x 43 after planing And Nominally 150 x 47 or 150 x 50 but actually 145 x 45 or 145 x 47 after planing. I suspect you want the latter, ideally with eased corners. Are there any other clues on the drawings such as the thickness of insulation and or air gaps?

MOT Type 1 covers a wide variety of hardcore materials, everything from virgin crushed limestone to recycled concrete and brick. Scalpings are what they scrape off roads before resurfacing. I would expect over 150mm of hardcore under a driveway so quote 1 is looking better than 2. You may also want to put some kind of weed control membrane down? Here is another spec for comparison. Type 3 is a porus hardcore that lets water through. Type 1 isn't always porous.

Perhaps just a simple flat a glass porch/canopy would be ok and near invisible from a distance.

I'm embarrassed to say we ended up with A fridge in kitchen An upright freezer and a fridge freezer in the utility room.

+1 to a temporary kitchen. My brother set one up in his dining room while his kitchen was replaced. Think he also used the Aldi induction hobs but there are similar on Amazon. Can be used later for outdoor/BBQ etc if you have an outdoor socket.

Do you have a site plan or at least an aerial view from Google maps. It's hard to visualise where things are. Which way is that photo looking? Towards the road? Away from the road? Is the turning circle going where you are standing? How wide is the verge? Road speed limit? Is the turning circle going outside the gates in the verge area or inside the gates? If it's going in the picture it looks like you might need to dig into the bank quite a lot to make a turning circle. In which case some sort of retaining wall would be necessary. These can be quite expensive so would help to know why you need a turning circle at the entrance end? Is that your fence at top the bank?

Sometimes the weight on the bath feet cause the OSB flooring to bend. It only has to bend a little for gaps to open up around the edge. To prevent this you can put a sheet of say 18mm WBP under the feet.

I think it will be fine. My guess is the cardboard didn't support the tile offcut enough and point loading from the stove caused it to crack.

Not quite sure what that "leg" is doing but yes thats the area the water is probably getting under. In earlier photo the gap looks small so perhaps something like waterproof grease on the underside of the chrome block/leg would be enough. Edit is the leg sprung loaded so it presses down?

As for the taps.. It's near impossible to run sealer around after the taps are fitted as the wall is too close. I would have them off, sealer on bottom of taps and refit. Wipe off any that squeezes out from under them.If you go easy on the sealer none may squeeze out but depends on the design.

I doubt it. That would only extend the deflector towards the wall/hinge. The deflector only really helps if it causes water to drip into the recessed part of the bath/shower tray rather than on the flat top. The water proofing is mostly provided by vertical vanes on the bottom of the door seal. Check these go as far towards the hinge as possible but I thing it might still get under the rectangular chrome block that moves with the door.

+1 Perhaps there already is an AAV on the WC and its faulty?

I think if you hired a company to demolish and clear site then their services to you should be zero rated.

If It does come back I would make the 1m offer conditional on them paying any costs associated with changing title deeds and or fencing/moving hedges etc

Could solder it in.

Lot depends on how complicated the design is. Simple rectangular houses with simple pitched roofs are cheaper than L shape with lots of dormers or similar complexities.

Here you go.. https://www.rubi.com/en/blog/how-to-choose-the-right-tile-trowel-size-step-by-step/

I briefly considered mixing different suppliers for cistern and flush valve but I think some pneumatic flush valves are incompatible eg the way they do dual flush differs. Think some do.. Single flush 1,0 Dual flush 1,1 And others do.. Single flush 1,0 Dual flush 0,1 If you get what I mean.

No idea if any good.. https://www.bathroomplanet.com/product/vitra-loop-t-flush-plate.html?vid=14873&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8vqGBhC_ARIsADMSd1Cpd_8hKMz_RUbkXfiYM2LffeIZGwe10v5vamp7K80JsFAhi51Vm4oaAhyqEALw_wcB Buy two (one as a spare)?