Temp

My builder used loads of limestone hardcore to stabilise our clay site. He effectively built a road along one side so vehicles wouldn't churn up the place.

+1 In case it helps... you should put larges radius "rest" bends at the bottom of stacks.

If you are feeling rich you can hire a Quantity Surveyor to make site visits during your build to value the work done to date and recommend how much you should pay the builder. He won't let you get to a situation where you have over paid for work done. If you decide to make a change they can also check the extra cost tbe builder quotes is reasonable. I dare say its an expensive service though.

Pay in stages and arrears (and retain say 5% of each stage payment for snagging).

Not sure if this is the latest version but unlikely to have changed.. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1990/8/section/55 Section 55(2) says...

It will be cheaper for you if you can head off enforcement. If you haven't already done do I would write to them ASAP asking them if they have considered the judgement in: "Panton and Farmer v Secretary of State for the Environment, Transport and the regions and Vale of White Horse DC [1999] JPL 461" Which you believe establishes that only abandonment, not temporary interruption, resets the four year period for enforcement. Point out that use of the structure was never abandoned. If you have already done that I'd apply for the certificate citing the same case.

Chickens are easily fooled...

Perhaps think about insurance to cover any covenants from the lost title in case someone turns up and tries to enforce. May not be that expensive. Article on visibility splays with dimensions. Local rules sometimes vary.. https://www.planninggeek.co.uk/glossary/s/splays-visibility-at-junctions/ Article says you may need 215m in a 60mph area but see the diagram for how its measured. Might be ok or not. Rainwater disposal can be a big issue if soakaways don't work, eg on clay soil. The planners will advise if a bat/newt or other survey is required. Best not to ask them though. Can cause delays. For example I think some surveys can only be done at certain times of the year. Other forum members are better placed to advise.

£100 is extortionate. Personally I wouldnt bother, just fit a bell push on the frame.

Silly question but did you wind up the spring enough?

The regs mean mains wiring outdoors is notifiable work so should get an electrician to do it and he should send paperwork to Building Control. You can save a lot by digging and filling the trenches for him. The same does not apply to 12V lighting so all the DIY sheds have switched over to selling a range of 12V plug and play lighting. Otherwise.. Mains wire needs to be suitably sized for the load, length and location. Should be buried at least 400mm deep or 600mm where the ground might be disturbed (eg under flower beds). Should be a marker tape above the cable so people digging hit that first. Where its not buried i think it should be clearly visible eg clipped to a wall not hidden in a hedge or just laying on the ground under leaf debris.

Ah so I guess that rules out something like this.. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/217365-REG/Rolls_DU30B_DU30b_Audio_Ducker_with.html/overview?gclid=Cj0KCQjwh_eFBhDZARIsALHjIKepwrHczjJzEZGgfoXvjjoFBPRjfYtov8-nXU3FERocpOcd98_Dzb0aAu5sEALw_wcB Its an auto ducking mixer.

I understand what you want to do but i think more info is needed on the whole house audio system. Is there a point in the system where you can insert an analogue mixer or is it all digital these days?

When is the auction? If its already booked its unlikely you have time to get advice from the planners. They are very busy and at least one council has suspended giving pre application advice as they are overloaded. A planning consultant might be able to get an informal opinion from them if he knows them personally. Old boy network and all that. No guarantees though. You should probably be doing a lot of other due diligence checks or at least weigh up the risk of not doing them.. Ransom strips or similar? Covenants? Visibility splays? Access to electricity/sewerage/telephone Rainwater disposal if combined sewers not allowed. Contamination? Asbestos? Bats/Newts?

I assume this is just a lintel above a window and its not carrying any abnormal loads from steel ridge beams or ?? Otherwise someone should check the loading is ok. I mean 1,000,000 tons on 100mm of bath sponge ain't going to work even if the regs allow it ?

From Welsh Approved Document A page 31.. https://gov.wales/building-regulations-guidance-part-structural-safety 2C24 Other loading conditions: (a) Vertical loading on walls should be distributed. This may be assumed for concrete floor slabs, precast concrete floors, and timber floors designed in accordance with section 2B, and where the bearing length for lintels is 150mm or greater. Where a lintel has a clear span of 1200mm or less the bearing length may be reduced to 100mm.

NHBC say.. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/6-superstructure-excluding-roofs/6-1-external-masonry-walls/6-1-12-lintels/ Lintels should extend beyond the opening (at each end) by the minimum lengths shown in Table 5. Table 5: Lintel bearing Minimum bearing length (mm) Span (m) Simple lintel Lintel combined with cavity tray Up to 1.2 100 150 Over 1.2 150 150 Elsewhere it says the lintel manufacturers recommendations must also be followed if they require more than 100mm.

Sometimes the actuator pops off the valve so it can't press on the pin. Happened to us once and it wasn't very obvious until I touched the actuator and it moved

I must be missing something.. You have PP for a building that is tall enough so this change would be entirely internal right? There are no planning conditions that preclude adding a mezzanine in the PP? In which case I don't think adding a mezzanine after completion is even counted as development... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/when-is-permission-required#:~:text=The categories of work that,more than 200 square metres) If the planning officer won't allow the PP to be changed I suggest you point out you could apply for a 'Lawful Development Certificate' (LDC) for a mezzanine added after completion on the grounds that it is not development as defined by section 55(2) of the Town and Country Planning Act 1990. That might be enough to make him change his mind and allow the PP to be changed. If not then go for the certificate. The downside is the fee for a LDC might be more than the fee for amending the PP (if any). The upside is that applications for a 'Lawful Development Certificate' (LDC) are considered on the law and aren't subjective like planning applications.

Quite normal for the architect to send drawings fo the SE for his input. He might be able to suggest changes that allow a beam to be eliminated or spot areas that need strengthening. Our Architect arranged a meeting between the three of us. I mostly listened while they discussed some of the construction details. The SE then did the foundation design while the Architect incorporated changes the SE had suggested.

If someone quotes to "supply and fit" on one invoice then the whole lot should be zero rated to you. You should ask them to revise their quote to remove the "+VAT" or change it to "inc VAT at 0%". Do this before you accept the quote. See.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708#section11 The contractor should reclaim the VAT they pay on materials when they do their VAT return. Some contractors will be hesitant about this. In such cases it might help if you give them a "certificate" which is a letter certifying that your project is a new build that qualifies for zero rating. Include your contact details, planning ref, site address etc. Officially theses are only needed for work on charity buildings but can help convince a contractor to do the right thing. Avoid using non-VAT registered trades as they can't reclaim the VAT they pay. Its slightly different for conversions.

Normally they require you to install a meter box on an outside wall and bring the connection up into that. If the cable runs up the outside of the wall it might need covering/protecting but I think that may only be necessary where there is a risk of a car impacting it? I'm not 100% sure about that though. You can get plastic covers to stop rain getting in through the hole but I've just had one crumble on me due to uv exposure.

There are lots of things like this you can buy or make yourself.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Galvanised-Adjustable-Bolt-Down-Post-Support-Height-25cm-Bar-20mm-/323397944126?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=Cj0KCQjw5PGFBhC2ARIsAIFIMNfr4nsLgdXTiazqFyQyOr6iq4oP4MHlXvRmLzJjcce5SyRuO0zTibsaArlnEALw_wcB&redirect=mobile https://www.amazon.co.uk/Support-Foot-Inlet-Post-Carrier/dp/B083999J6P/ref=asc_df_B083999J6P/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=430783934818&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14462954570121452541&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006818&hvtargid=pla-915527913036&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=103132776474&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=430783934818&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14462954570121452541&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006818&hvtargid=pla-915527913036

Wire wool best for cleaning copper pipe.

You should always mix packs even if not a blend. It's not uncommon for there to be variations between pallets. I'm sure many people have ended up with a horizontal line around their house. We used a mix of two different bricks and so had to mix them up anyway.