CC45
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Everything posted by CC45
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Just take care with the pir - mine was not very accurate in terns of thickness - so if you buy 50mm pir I would use slightly bigger battens than 50mm. It will save you a lot of frustration.
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Should the hot feed to the buffer go in above the return?
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Just renewed for £620. 12 mths. Value at £250,000.
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@PeterW thought of that but not enough room.
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Glue - interesting product but rather nervous of it failing - not easy to repair if it did. Sticking to copper here because its reliable and cheaper than plastic for this job. Will revert to plastic under the floors for ease of running. @Nickfromwales I think the 3rd option is the best, once the grommets are through I will give it a go. Will test it all before sealing in. Cheers
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Yes, we've been at it for 2 years now. Another year or poss 18 mths to go. Ok, if we need to stick with the existing one then fine. Thanks
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Hi, Site insurance due for renewal on 25/10/17. Last year a 12mth policy cost £590. This was with Selfbuild Insurance - Godalming. Policy actually with Zurich. What are others paying? Anyone with a suggestion regarding alternative brokers. Need to get the renewal done by Wednesdayvreally. Cheers CC
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Evening all, Been getting on with some first fit plumbing in the four dormers. This is complicated by the fact that below the floors is outside (well some insulation and then outside) - so pipe work needs to go through the timber frame before going downstairs. See pic. I've got two challenges - soldering whilst not melting anything - including the airtight patch that will go over each pipe. The pipes extend below the floor so its tricky work - I cant just solder and then slide them in. Hope my explanation is ok! My thoughts are: 1. Cut the pipes shorter so I can solder the elbows on away from the frame and then connect the drops. Downside is an extra joint. 2. Use a pushfit elbow - I would need to widen the gap in the timber frame. Not too hard to do but another joint and not too sure on how to seal it. 3. Prob my fav. Cut the hole in the floor boards bigger. Slide pipe away from frame and the airtight patch by say 2", solder, cool down the joint & slide back in. Patch the floor. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Cheers Cc
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Hi, Thats very rough, personally Id get another crew in. You 'sound' fedup with it but the hassle down the line will annoy you more I suspect. Good luck
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MVHR - flies!
CC45 replied to readiescards's topic in Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR)
Those look like the small flies that migrate out of a cereal crop shortly before harvest..... Don't think you can do much to stop them. Maybe once air is passing through they will find it difficult to hang on! -
If I don't ask this I will inevitably get it wrong...
CC45 replied to Crofter's topic in Rainwater, Guttering & SuDS
I fitted deep flow gutters and despite some big roof areas & 45deg roof (design had 2 downpipes per section but I only put one in) - no probs with overflowing under v v heavy rain. Wont be using normal gutters in future. -
I was hoping to use the same wunda stats that we have down stairs http://www.wundatrade.co.uk/thermostats/365-touchscreen-thermostat.html and the wunda wiring centre. I will ask at TP. I can never get any sensible prices from them though.
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So does anyone know of an adaptor from 16mm wunda pipe to 15mm? I assume any wiring centre will work with any manifold actuators and room stats? Cheers
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Try agric outlets - hypochlorite is used by dairy farmers to clean the pipes that carry milk between the milking parlour and the bulk tank.
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DO NOT put 140mm celotex into a 140mm frame. I did this - never again. The celotex sheets vary in thickness - a surprising number were more than 140mm, this causes BIG issues when you come to putting battens on. I've spent hours, in fact weeks putting spacers behind the battens to lift then off the frame - all because of the celotex. I would urge you to use 120mm. The celotex web site has a u-value calc on it - 20mm less wont make much difference but it WILL save your sanity. I was given this advice before I ordered our celotex and like an idiot I ignored it. I dont want you to make the same mistake I did.
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My wallet started having fits when I looked at the price of those trench heaters. Her in doors doesnt like then - what a relief. Does any one know if Hep2o pipe will fit into the wunda ufh manifold? Or would you use ufh pipe (with copper connected for the visible sections?). I think the wunda mixing valve is good for up to 70deg, so it could be a viable option. Hoping Telford cylinder will be sorted this week - I'm hoping to pick them up before the weekend at the latest. Need to crack on with the heating then. CC
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Just resurecting a previous thread. Time to purchase the manifold etc for the radiators upstairs. So two quotes so far - one using an Emmeti LS radiator manifold and the other using a Disman LS radiator manifold. Emmeti seems to be a well known brand - has anyone heard of Disman. I noticed that the Wundu ufh manifold has a blending valve that goes from 30 to 70oC - does anyone know of a reason as to why I cannot use one of their ufh manifolds? Any other thoughts on using an ufh manifold? Thanks CC
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Another small step documented in my blog
CC45 replied to ProDave's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
@ProDave looking sharp. Was looking back through your blog - what did you use to connect the distribution box to the mvhr box? What is the external insulation that you've fitted? Still on my to do list. Thanks cc -
I wasnt planning on putting door linings in before skimming. I just need to make sure the gaps are roughly the correct size - it would be annoying having to add a bit of plasterboard & skimming that afterwards.
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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
CC45 replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
It stated moisture resistant...... -
We hired in fall arest bags - timber frame company requirement. Never saw one being used. They left one behind - makes a useful seat on site.
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We are building tf with brick exterior, Ive been surprised how much stuff can be out - Ive used a lot of spacers battening out, but have accepted that the floors upstairs arent as level as I wanted. Like a few others here, if I do this again I suspect it will be a block & brick job but with a wide & filled cavity. Every trade seems to know problems exist but seem to expect the next trade to sort it out.
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Ive done 3 plastic doors - the most harrowing experience Ive ever had on site. Vowed never again - and I havent. It was great watching the professionals doing it. The frame has no real structural strength so it just flexes all over the place. Wooden frames and doors are easy in comparison. Good luck!
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You must have a lot of patience. Looks really good.
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Help me out of these holes, please!
CC45 replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Insulated Concrete Formwork (ICF)
Farmers I've know use short lengths of water pipe around the threaded bar. Leaving it in after the shuttering comes down.
