CC45

I did exactly the same as dudda. You can always tape the stuff. I still dont understand why they give you so much of the stuff though - we had rolls of it left over.

Ive been surprised how much the pressure varies in ours. It went in a while ago and has been left pressurised since - in winter it dropped by 1.5 bar (so I recharged it) but a few weeks ago during the mini heat wave we had, I let some out! Like you I did worry about leaks when the pressure dropped but confident that its just temp variation now.

I avoided that sort of loft hatch ladder. There are other similar ones but they hinge on a joist. The trap door is separate so insulating it further is a possibility. Thats what I did with it although in those days I didnt pay too much attention to draft exclusion. For the pain involved in fitting the whole lot - why dont you just fit the full on / posh versions. The overall extra cost wont be much.....

Just fitted a loft hatch on Saturday, one off ebay - about £70. Polish made. Optistep make. Went in ok. Fitted 3 others - all Youngmans and to be honest I'd stick to Youngmans because of a better hinge mechanism. I intend to do as others have done - insulated plug in the loft space with a draft excluder no further minimise drafts (one good thing about the Optistep is that its the springs (very strong) that 'close' the hatch so there's no air leakage from an opening mechanism). The 55cm wide ones should fit into joists without cutting any timbers, I've fitted the 60cm one so did have to modify the roof joists. All pretty straight forward though. Settled on a 110 cm length, 100cm is ok, much shorter than this and getting in and out with 'stuff' is a pain Cc

There are a few of us here - born further West than you boys, as Ray Gravell said - West is Best. Hwyl

We used osmo on some oak outside. Pleased with it.

We taped all ours. Easy and not especially costly to do now. I assume you've got some plastic to cover them before laying the ufh pipes. Cc

We are going east - easier cleaning of ducts being the main reason.

So heat loss is reduced as much as poss. Good stuff

Basement ceiling - you wont need as much as our floors but if you are running both rooms at different temps then you will need some. How are you dealing with heat losses on the perimeter?

Id put more than 50mm of insulation under the pipes. Weve got 225mm under ours. 2.5m height in rooms. All sorted before we started to build anything.

So the elec ufh went straight down on the floor? I assume the slc was only deep enough to cover the electrics?

Confused about what an SLC is? So if I allow 20mm I should be ok. Was the electric ufh worth it?

The dewalt one Nick suggested is good. I've used in indoors during the day time and its easy to see. Not wasted cash.

Evening all, Looking forward to finally completing battening upstairs in a couple of days - I then need to think about plumbing wastes etc So Ive been pondering on the depth of the bathroom floor. The plan is to cover the existing 18mm boards with electric ufh and then tiles, so how deep is this likely all to be? Never done anything like this before so any advice is welcome! Cheers CC

I feel like a right dosser now - 2 years in the making so far and only now thinking that boarding may be possible this summer! Well done with the progress.

Water from a dehumidifier any good? Our iron seems to run far better on it compared to our (hard) tap water.

Cheers - first hand experience is always useful. Thanks

Sorry to semi hijack this thread but like Barney12 we are getting close to starting battening (at least upstairs) and Ive started looking at our options with regards to hanging things. The current plan is not to have wall units in the kitchen but we do need to hang some stuff on the walls - the current concern is radiators upstairs (ufh downstairs), bathroom 'stuff' (toilets etc). I was going to put 12.5mm osb on the walls behind the plasterboard in bathrooms and extra noggins inbetween the service void battens where the rads are to go BUT then I found Fermacell on a web site - it makes some impressive claims about its ability to support weight (some good vids on their web site) and thus I am now thinking of using this in the bathrooms, kitchen (just in case her in doors changes her mind) and for hanging rads on - so replacing plasterboard in these area with Fermacell. I'm happy to accept the extra cost because of the reduced time and hassle. But I've got some questions that I suspect some of you chaps can answer... As long as I use appropriate fixings is this a sensible plan? Why not use normal plasterboard along with 'Gripit' or similar fixings? I assume the 12.5mm Fermacell is the same depth as 12.5mm plasterboard? I know they say its the same but after my experiences with PIR insulation (which is not that accurate) I need some reassurance! If I mix and match Fermacell & plasterboard on the same wall - can it all be skimmed without any issues? Any other observations? Cheers CC

Both. 75mm liquid screed is plenty, quick, cost effective and easy. I've done both but won't be going back to the traditional method in a hurry. Neither approach is wrong but I know which I'd use again.

Why 100mm sand/cement screed? I costed this option for ours (done it myself a few times) but with extra labour costed in it was more effective to pour. 10m3 went in over about 3hrs & no one sweated much. Option 2 is what we did. I also out some expansion stuff down.

Dee, just put a batten to give the kick. Your fascia will have to be nailed to the rafters. Peter, you can but since I wanted wood behind our plastic fascia I killed two jobs in one. Even the thick plastic fascia isnt that strong. I always use deepflow gutters, bit more cash but no more extra work.

Just make sure that if water falls on anything it flows down and off the roof!

I use 18mm plastics but would never just use them to support tiles - I nail / screw 25mm board on first (4x1 or 6x1). Roof can be tiled then, leave the board 25mm proud of the roof timbers to give the necessary kick. Nail fascia on at your leasure, remember to tell the roofers the plan so they leave adequate tile overhang for the gutters.

Tell them your concerns again and point out the probs it will cause you & then deliver the good news - put a bigger pipe in or you leave me with no option but to report. His choice then.