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CC45

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Everything posted by CC45

  1. CC45
    @ProDave exactly how Ive fixed mine - just the kitchen ones to go in now.
  2. CC45
    @JSHarris bpc call the terminals in the room plenums. @Declan52 good tip - bit worried that I may not be able to locate them accurately after skimming! I thought about marking their centres on the floor using a plumbob - should make finding them easier. Not too sure what to mark them with - needs to be fairly resilient or it will just rub off. Is there a min distance? Is 1300mm enough? CC
  3. CC45
    Hi @JSHarris, I wasnt talking about the manifolds - they are in the loft, I meant the plenums in the individual rooms, any advice?
  4. CC45
    Thanks all - what about the distance from the mvhr plenum? Need to get them fixed in on Thursday evening ready for the pipework install this Saturday. Cheers CC
  5. CC45
    Hello, Suspect a few of you have faced this challenge with your mvhr system. Is there a certain distance the kitchen mvhr extract plenum to the cooker hood/hob? Is this the direct distance? Or the horizontal distance from directly above the hobs? Would 1m be enough? I've tried finding an answer on line / in my various folders but no luck. What have you all done about extractor hood? Just use a recirculating one? Cheers CC
  6. CC45
    The longer runs on ours are doubled - these go to the three largest rooms so I guess extract volumes and air noise in pipes comes into play.
  7. CC45
    @Nickfromwales cheers for that Nick.
  8. CC45
    @JSHarris crunched some additional numbers tonight, if I assume average winter temps here, no solar or other gains and no slack then we should get down towards 10 or 11w/m2 or about 2,500 for the whole house. I'm happy with this. We cannot justify passive standards but we have put more insulation in, an mvhr and put considerable effort into airtightness. We were going to do solar pv but the drop in tariff put a nail in that coffin. The rads we do install wont be very big - whether they ever come on or not is debatable but if we eventually sell, then I suspect buyers will expect to see them there. Thanks for your thoughts - something to aim at next time!
  9. CC45
    Thats based on a 21deg rise in temp (it will be less than this because no allowance for heat rising up has been included) plus a 25% allowance. The room has 3 external walls and is ~ 30m2. I didn't think 16w/m2 was too bad.
  10. CC45
    @ProDave and @Nickfromwales, thanks for the info - what you've outlined was exactly the plan I had, I was just having a wobble. I've spent the day putting the pattress boxes in ready for it all - a surprising number when I've included the electric ufh in the bathrooms and onsuite. I've got my own spreadsheet to work out heat loss and upstairs it works out at ~ 16w/m2 - the biggest room has a requirement of 500w and I was going to put two 600w & 400h flat panel rads (under the two windows) - producing ~300w each (I could up them to 700 x 400 @ 470w each). I was wondering whether to use ufh manifold - any thoughts? @Nickfromwales - I will get in touch with those two - diolch. Carmarthen boy here but willing to take advice from a Swansea lad!
  11. CC45
    Hi all, UFH downstairs via manifold. MVHR going in. House is too big really for the two of us so we are planning on fitting individual room stats so we can run some rooms at lower temps. I know a few of you have just run the groundfloor off one thermostat. I'm now looking at upstairs and although the heating requirement isn't great, for reasons of peace and harmony we are planning on fitting some rads - fed from a manifold (possibly a low temp ufh manifold since the rads that look right are well above the heat required) and again I'd like to be able to control them individually off the manifold - so individual room stats due to go in, but where would be the best position for them? I feel that they need to go towards the external walls rather than close to the door - any thoughts? Thanks for your thoughts. CC
  12. CC45
    Most of ours run under floors to exit in the right direction.
  13. CC45
    Our frame is 140mm. I put pir in myself, get a good mask and use a saw. Take your time & you wont need to foam much. The biggest pain is the inconsistency in the pir. I would strongly advise you fit pir thats 10mm thinner than the frame ie 140 frame - use 120 or 130 pir. It wont alter the u value really. We've got horizontal battens on the inside and then more pir between then. It takes time so if i was to do this method again I would see if the frame company would stick the pir in to be honest.
  14. CC45
    Think its 20m3 max per person per day. Happy to be corrected.
  15. CC45

    Silicone Masonry Paint

    CC45 replied to a topic in Decorating

    @Alphonsox our plasterer put our k-rend on in two thinner coats - he said that we would see the blocks otherwise. Seems he was correct. Shame its not worked out for you, good luck with that painting.
  16. CC45
    Should not have put dormers in (v time consuming) Should have put ufh upstairs (easy and quick) Should not have used celotex (the board thickness is so variable and often more than stated) Should have bought my own digger Should try to enjoy the whole experience more often
  17. CC45
    Ours inflates with the wind. We use horizontal battens - behind which Ive packed some foam backers which have helped. PIR is jammed between these battens. I cant hear our membrane.
  18. CC45
    Try some local dairy farms for IBC's - I picked up 2 FOC. The dairy chemicals are delivered in these nowadays.
  19. CC45
    I would never just use the plastic fascia board on its own, even the 18mm stuff. Personally I use some 1" timber with either 9mm or 18mm fascia board on top. Are you fitting any soffit? Normally goes on before fascia.
  20. CC45
    Upvc with foil on - fools most people, out neighbour thought they were wood. Left on offcut in brick acid for a few weeks and nothing happened. The company we used made theirs from black plastic so if they do scratch you dont see white.
  21. CC45
    Will you actually notice it? I worried about things like this but now I probably cant even remember what they were!
  22. CC45
    So the general thoughts are: 1. Towel rad with electrical element fitted for summer towel drying. I think this should also be plumbed to the wet system for the rest of the heating period. Nick seems to suggest to not connect to the wet system - so elec used every day to dry towels - is that right Nick? Its not long or tricky to get pipework to it. @jack - I'd rather just spend the extra few £ and finish the job, I hate going back to a job. 2. Electric UFH 3. @Triassic as above - think I'd rather put them in I think. Regardless of the temp the missus will express an opinion about temp (the switch on the heating control is the most used switch in the house - she puts it on and then I turn it off - several times a day, even now and its summer) + my father has kidney probs and does feel the cold. 4. Thanks @JSHarris for that link, clocked this a few years ago whilst reading your blog. Will check them out. Off to the plot now, never ending. Thanks chaps for your observations CC
  23. CC45
    Evening all. Spent all day finishing off the master bedroom and on suite ready for 1st fix elec & heating - so spent quite a lot of time chewing on 'things'. Bedroom will have rads, controlled by a room stat in the room. Heat loss is calculated to be around 500w or ~ 16w/m2. Not convinced I need rads at all but going to put them in just in case and for eventual resale. MVHR to be installed. This room is sorted but I have some queries about the ensuite. Some basic details of the current plan regarding heating the ensuite. Towel rad fed from a manifold (one for upstairs with another for the down stairs ufh), planning on hooking this up to its own room stat so the good lady can run this room warmer / in summer, the other option would be to put an electric heating element in it for drying towels in summer. With MVHR not 100% sure this isn't going OTT. With tiles going down on the floor then we are also going to put electric ufh in but with a heat loss of around 100w any system we put in will be plenty warm enough. So am I going ott or just making sure the domestic services department is kept happy? Suspect the extra cost isn't that much (doing it all myself) so any thoughts? Thanks in advance, CC
  24. CC45

    New Arrival

    CC45 replied to DNA's topic in Introduce Yourself

    Our spoil went back under the beams. We put 225mm of pir on top of the B&B then 75 screed (could use less) with ufh in it. Wecalso had to build up off the original ground so slab wasnt feasible. It should be warm.
  25. CC45
    Local chap just dropped off duct to us, muttered that its free to BT customers, we hadnt signed up, he just said not to worry. Told us where it needed to go to and left. Weve never paid for it.
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