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Wanting a good airtight house one would avoid dot and dab at all costs

Quickish update only because I seem to have run out of hours as now we are building, balancing family life and a full time demanding job. So after the last update, where the stone wasn't really getting solid. I ended up getting it dug out, it was bothering me too much and I was completely worried about it. It was no major issue the boys dug it out in an afternoon, then put dry type 1 back in there and compacted down and built the levels up no hassles. We had a full dry week so it made a massive difference and they were able to get along much much quicker. In between the stone drama I had the surveyor on site and we set up profile boards to set out the corners and main walls internally that I needed to reference off for ducts. I set my boards up so that the string lines lined up with the lower portion of the insulated foundation once I came to the stage of setting that out. Doing it that way worked well. They built the stone up to level, then we cut all the ducts and drains in. The groundworkers took my layout for the drains, then done what they wanted to do in instead, which worked better. They didn't fancy using the rest bends but I insisted in some places. They did prefer to use Tee's which seemed fine. I wasn't too bothered by this point. The ducts ae all mm precision hoefully along with the drains so they all pop up and I spent A LOT of time planning the plant room. Then we screeded with 50mm sand. I used steel pipes for this and we set them up with the laser. It worked well and we had it screeded with 50mm sand in an afternoon. I used concrete sand for this which was wet but worked fine. That's a picture of me in the bucket of the digger doing the bits out in the middle. None of us could deal with leaving a hole in the middle. I got straight on to the DPM after this. My system has the DPM placed under the Kore insulated foundation. I did this all myself and had worked out all the joins on CAD befroe hand. It's easy to lay that way, albeit I hadn't anticipated the PITA it is to not walk on the sand but lay the DPM and then not walk on the DPM is impossible as i want it to stay level. I used OSB boards to move about most of the time. Cutting round drains is a pisser with the DPM, alsowhere you have 4 ducts popping up next to one another in a bunch it is also a complete pain. I did big cuts to get it over and it took forever to patch. I used top hats where possible and taped them in but there was some dodgy joints around where multiple ducts come up in a bunch - Those have been foamed to death now the insulation is down. Things to note - the Visqueen DPM is good, their double sided tape is good. I actually kept it in a cooler with a hot water bottle to keep it malleable as it was pretty cold when I was doing it. Their single sided tape is absolutely shit, do not buy it. Toolstation single sided DPM tape is also shit! However the Screwfix DPM tape is mega, stick like mad no matter what. really impressed with it. here: So once DPM was done I got the insulate foundation down and got started. I took some advice from @LA3222 as albeit straightforward it's not bang on. I was expecting something more highly engineered and don't get me wrong it is of high quality but some bits are a little longer and few mm here and there and some cut slightly off the square which means a good bit of adjustment. But works fine. I set out the corners first, then loosely laid it with my profile board lines. I then ended up taking a middle section out each line to get it to the right lengths and adjusted from there. I checked the lengths and squareness and procrastinated about it, ovethought it and all sorts, I didn't trust my tape as I could stretch it however much i wanted. I then ended up moving it all about and doing all sorts, one thing was apparent was the internal diagonals KORE/tanners can get relied on exactly due to the manufacturing tolerances mentioned above. So you just need to get them square tothe same size and as long as it is ballpark it is fine. I set out again and used the outer lengths, then I bit the bullet and called the surveyor back. He took 250 off me....stayed for 45 mins. Only to confirm I was pretty much bang on. I was 0mm out in some corners (bare in mind i set up with tapes over 20m) and 3-7mm mostly. Two corners I was 20mm off but i knew that as a profile board got knocked. All in all gave me plenty confidence. I then proceeded to pin the edges and then I finished filling in the three internal layers last night. Took me two full days (sat and sun) and then three nights. I used the U pins, I found them good, i started with the PU foam but found it too hard for the edges and thought it woudl take a while. So I pinned it, then filled holes with PU foam.I used PU foam in all internal joints though as that was easier. Cutting through the EPS 300 is a PITA but planned well it's ok. I'd avoid drains in the out sections next time. If i get time I will put more effort at the insulated foundation installation details, but knackered tonight after the last 5 days at it and doing my normal work. I've been writing down things that I would change and I'll list them in each blog post to provide a hint for a step! Lots of pics attached as normal. Lessons learned: 1) It is is wet - buy the type 3 stone 2) Listen to your groundworks guys if you trust them - they wanted me to add big stone down the bottom to help it drain...I didn't want to. We should have. 3) Dont buy the visqueen DPM tape, waste of money. 4) Don't be cheap and by the pro nozzle for the foam gun, It's only 20 quid. I didn't that was a schoolboy error. 5) Don't buy the bahco £19 wavy 'insulation saw' it's crap and near impossible to use with the KORE stuff Ditch it and just a normal saw. It's messy but much much quicker. thanks for reading.

Well we are on the way now and no going back. The groundworks guy started last week, he is putting in the road and hardstanding and will do the insulated foundation under my guidance and I will assist. It's a good relationship and he comes when its not raining and is well experienced in groundworks. He is actually building his own home just now too (we are similar ages). The night before he came on site...I was hurriedly arranging site insurance (horrific cost of over £2k - but it is for 24 months) that was sorted, then in the dark I went up and attached the cursory health and safety signs at the entrance. I also put a sign facing out into the surrounding fields (see pic below) as we have people who walk by and I haven't heras fenced the site hence if someone crosses the fence they should be aware there might be big holes in the ground. The digger came the next morning and we have nearly finished the access going in to the house, around 400 Tonne of 3" crusher run has got us up to the house location. Which is pretty damn close to what I calculated, we were put off my rain somewhat this week which suited us both as I was stowed with my normal job, I did have holidays booked but couldnt get off as I had too much on. However come Monday..I will be off for a week.... I 've been busy at night over thinking, over engineering and done far too much detailed planning around drainage and ducts. But I'm nearly ready. The Kore Insulated foundation system came in December....I can tell you how glad I was that i brought it in before Brexit. I'm hearing stories that it is completely problematic now. I was missing some EPS for a thermal break between man slab and integral garage but steven from Kore sorted it and should be here next week just in time. I'm spending my night tonight comparing prices of drainage which I'll bring on site on Tuesday. The groundworkers will be back Monday and we expect a big week full speed ahead, we will scrape the foundation out (the footprint top soil is removed) get it level, then fill with Type 1. Then surveyor here on Wednesday to set out profile boards with, I done all the ACAD drawings for him to place it all and do the ducts and drains and insulated foundation corners etc, He's also been really helpful and proactive. The final UFH design is done, I'll order the pipe on Wednesday too and they can get it next day, so that's fine. Next week is a big week and I'm excited...I've planned some bits to death, but in reality we will just see how it goes. Some pictures attached because that's what a blog is all about Jude was thoroughly enjoying the water and mud!....wish us luck! 20210115_154740.mp4

Use stainless steel nails?

Decent explanations here - https://www.greenspec.co.uk/building-design/decrement-delay/ Spreadsheet decrement delay calculator - https://www.concretecentre.com/Publications-Software/Design-tools-and-software/Dynamic-Thermal-Properties-Calculator-(1).aspx I find it 'buggy' but it might just be my ancient Excel, Or lightweight rooms-in-roof in summer

I buried all my off cuts in a small retaining area against the side of the house. Was really time consuming but I thought as I'd paid for the insulation I may as well experience the benefit of it.

Trade waste centre as general waste by weight got to be cheapest legitimate disposal. Skips are all about volume.

A few points. You don't get permitted development rights until the house is complete, so that does not help you putting a caravan in your garden. When i applied for planning I put the static caravan on. It came back with the default clause "the static caravan is to be removed upon occupation of the house." (that might not be the exact wording) I wanted to keep my static caravan for other uses. I pointed out to the planners that on the day of completion, I could remove the caravan, and then immediately replace it with an identical caravan in an identical position and it would be permitted development. They then changed the wording to "habitational use of the static caravan shall cease upon occupation of the house" So my caravan can stay but not as a residence.

Not a real engineering term. Though, unlike 'thermal mass' you can put units to it. Look up thermal inertia. Or just divide heat capacity by conductivity.

I think Ive done as much as I can, & although flaws galore/ a hole top left, its rotted rhs edge 1 cm all the way down, plus rot at both bottoms of legs.. its just about passable. Well it'll have to be " very characterful".. ie a bit crappy. Shame to add new pse plant-ons on.. but any alternative I wonder? Meths was best. So now its all smooth & as clean as i can get it.. just leave as it is? Or is it worth 1 osmo oil coat? Or furniture polish? Only got enough for 1 osmo coat. thanks zooter.

You don’t need planning to site a mobile home. Under permitted development it allows the siting of a temporary/moveable structure that is required temporarily in connection with and for the duration of the operations being carried out. We have recently completed a barn conversion where we lived in a mobile home for 15 years on site (I told the wife it would be 3-5 years - but that’s a different story). We wrote to the council telling them of our intentions stating under what legislation, we also registered for council tax with no issues. This legislation does not vary from one authority to another (England) despite what you may have read on this post. My advice is be confident when dealing with the council, the bottom line is the law allows you to do it, the council may not like it but such is life!

I just added a sentence to our planning permission along the lines of: we also seek permission to site a static caravan next to the build to live in during construction. No one batted an eyelid so if you are at that stage worth doing.

Thank you for the replies. Its the adjacent that seems unclear. The trees were planted along the inside of the old fence and it was shorter than 2m but higher than 1m as it was taller than my kids who are around 1.2m. The grass verge is narrow around about 0.8m wide. I think for us it just seems strange for them to send us a letter but say that we can leave it unless they have another enquiry. Thanks again

like this

This has been raised here a few times, I put a caravan on site for me to live in and paid council tax band a, usually councils don’t bother but a few make it a condition that it’s removed after the house is finished. HOWEVER if you want to retain it (like @ProDave did) you have every right without planning as long as it’s not a complete a accommodation (has bathroom, kitchen etc) so cannot be considered a separate dwelling, people can sleep in it as long as they use the house fir say bathroom or kitchen facilities.

I have full fill cavity with rockwall type insulation, it has a BBA certificate to say it does not wick damp, and I proved it, my west wall (brick) was soaked after a wet winter but when core drilling through the wall no damp had wicked into the insulation although the insides of the bricks were sodden. I have since treated the west wall with a damp treatment but have no worries about damp and this kind of insulation.

Does your uhf go underneath your steel? Do you staple it to bottom of insulation and if so what about dpm Edit sorry just read it's below eps

Yes..!! It should be sealed now with plastic sheet, tape and warning signs. You will have to use a specialist contractor to remove what they deem is required - you have no say in that. You may have to put warning signs in any remaining floor voids.

I remember a case on here where someone put up a 2M fence just off the highway. There was a path, then a grass verge then the fence. A planning inspector visited, stood on the public foortpah and reached out as far as he could. He could not touch the fence. Therefore he deemed it not to be "adjacent" to the highway and took no action.

I'd put a thick membrane between them and any soil bank.

Brilliant idea, certainly strong enough and will last decades, regarding the top of the embankment, if no one else is interested, if you create a “natural” woodland area you could eventually claim vacant possession. We have an old railway line near us and some people have taken over a part next to them and no one seems bothered!

Agreed, would look good stepped up the bank to create terraces for planting. If you paint them, make sure you use an etch primer for galvanised steel.

If you alternate them either side of a post then you’ll expose a planting pocket as you go up so can put stuff in them to disguise / hide / make a feature.

Corrosion resistant, very strong, cheap, easy to install. Sounds like a great idea. And I bet they'd be really easy to clad with timber or plant trellaces. Nice big slots you can bolt through.

Unless you manage to get the sand cement coat to a polished finish then plaster will stick ok.

You're right that Wunda is thinking about spacing for a normal building regs (at best) house. I believe just about everyone (including me) on here with an MBC slab has 200mm spacing, and I don't recall any complaints.

Thanks. UFH in this weekend (I'm.planning on doing it in two days...not sure yet if that's realistic) then get the steel in over the next week or two and get the boys to pour it. I'll be happy once it's done, thats for sure.

Ouch. That’s shocking. The suppliers are usually able to do a route map when supplying with sections / pipe ways / crossovers all avoided etc so this should have been relatively neat and organised. The boards absolutely must be bonded down, don’t even DREAM of pouring screed over that, it’ll be a train wreck. Pipes will have to come up, boards up, and redo I’m afraid ?. There is no quick fix here.

I've finally got around to starting this blog. I'm hoping that it'll be easily updated and I'll provide lots of good pictures and info...we'll see how that goes. I'm at the point now where we have just taken our first big delivery, which is our insulated foundation system from Kore, this morning. So albeit, this process of building a house has been ongoing for some time, it has just become real that we are at the beginning of the build phase, which is very exciting. Some light background info - I've always wanted to build a house for the last 5-10 years, but it was a distant dream and wasn't quite sure how feasible it would be. I grew up in a rural house, my parents bought in 1983, modernised and updated over the years. It was a great childhood and spent many hours in the fields and in our garden, even just cutting the grass was fun (1 acre and a ride on mower). We sold that when I was 21 and ever since I've wanted to return to that life. I have two young kids of my own now and hence the want to return to the countryside to give them what I had was strong. I was always keen on building, swmbo, wasn't as such. So we searched and searched, but mostly the houses we could find that suited our needs were out of league (price!) and even if they were to be in our league there were things we would change or in the end it would be expensive to run. And hence that search helped my other half make the realisation that self build was our only option. My dad died in 2017 after a long illness with Dementia, a relief for him and for everyone else involved. We were very close and I took care of him day in and out, until he was in care. He was an engineer and had owned his own business since I was a child, albeit he lived a pretty simple life and was happy being at home in the garden he made and house he had renovated. Riding around on the ride on mower enjoying a quiet life...and now I guess that's exactly where I want to be. His passing left us with a little inheritance which has allowed this dream of self building to become a reality, I'm very thankful for this. I know it is something he would have been very excited to be part of and watch us do. So after messing around since 2017 and not being able to negotiate a plot or find one that was suitable (there's a lengthy thread on this!) I'd finally identified 4 acres in July 2019. It took a bit of time ( I had to confirm services and remove an Agricultural tie) but completed purchase in Jan 2020. I'll not cover the planning process in detail, but the plot had legacy planning permission which was 24 years old, but at that time the development had commenced and hence it was a straightforward change and submission of our designs. Building warrant was granted a week ago, with very little hassle really. I joined Buildhub in September 2019 or thereabouts. It's been a wealth of information that has helped me shape the design of the house and provided no end of guidance which I am very thankful for. It has allowed me to validate my opinions and approaches and learn from others to ensure i am following the right path. I started out prior to buildhub wanting a SIPS house, in fact googling that may have made me find my way here. Quickly I decided I wanted an insulated foundation too, I went around in circles a little bit with both of these decisions and reading others opinions on here. I even thought at one point they would both be too expensive for me , however I sit here writing this first post having taken delivery of my insulated foundation today and my SIPS kit is on order and due sometime in February. I don't actually need the insulated foundation till mid-late January but made a decision to get it in the country before Brexit issues occur and tariffs are possibly applied in January (rumoured at 6%). I'm very glad I made that decision as today our new strain of COVID has caused everyone to close the doors to us here in the UK, another couple of days and god knows when I would have gotten it. There is lots of other decisions and stuff has gone on in the background with planning and mortgages and budgets to get here, but that is mostly done and hence I feel this is the end of the beginning and now we can enter the start of the middle.... I'm very pleased and excited for the road ahead. I like pictures in blogs....here's a few of the Insulated foundation delivery today. Stored at a friends farm for the time being. It's being stored outside, has a few tractor tyres on it now to stop it blowing away and the main pallets are all strapped down. That's me standing on top.......

This is a waste or overflow filler. https://www.ergonomicdesigns.co.uk/product/EDRCF~round-slimline-chrome-bath-filler-click-push-button-waste-with-overflow.html The Mode Harrison can do what you want - but using a bath overflow filler - for a 1/3rd of the price you’ve seen https://victoriaplum.com/product/mode-harrison-thermostatic-bath-filler-set

Wood hardener? You can get it in blue pill form too... ?

Stonking it today ! Battery full , car full - giving some to you guys ?

Locally, West Lancashire, yes it is. Where the issue gets interesting is, what happens if, while you apply for PP, you set up a caravan but PP is refused, and also refused at Appeal, so you contest the subsequent Enforcement Order ( ordering you, your caravan, chattels, pigs, hens, old Landrovers to leave) and exercise your right of Appeal against Enforcement. When that Appeal Decision goes against you, you merely suck your teeth and say ... Well, pal, you gonna make uzzz 'omeless then? The Enforcement Officer ( think Brick Sh!thouse , broken nose, forearms the size of my thighs, no neck) camped on my drive to protect the Inspector during his site visit, rolled his eyes when I expressed surprise ... 'Appens all 'time lad roun' 'ere lad. All 'time. So far this leedle pantomime has run its course over 6 full years. It'll finish soon! Oh no it won't!

Well today I was offered... My mates old PV inverter, Sunny Boy, controller and storage battery system, in his words "lead". Apparently all I need is "a panel(s)". He's upgraded his system with something from Growatt and has Li-ion batteries now apparently. Another unfinished project and more tat to store somewhere then!

Send it to me I will make good use of it. Save you the problem of storing it. Or put it in one of the Capri's. Or are they already full as "storage units"?

My dad and yours would have got on famously. Dads know best. Do it