Leaderboard
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/11/24 in all areas
-
Extract is the way if you are into cooking. Fried onion and garlic, sizzling steaks, bacon, stir fry, curry, fish.2 points
-
any ducted extractor is going to shift the stink miles better than a recirc. we have the neff downdraught and it say is removed 10% of the stink if that. I'd duct it next time and take the air-tightness hit.2 points
-
Could be worse, Antony Worrall Thompson and Ainsley Harriot. May all your doughnuts look like Fanny's. Keith Floyd and Graham Kerr for me, and Graham is still alive, missing half his fingers mind. You have unusual vegetables.1 point
-
I suspect this is a typo from the architect; it's already on my list of things to check, but thanks for pointing it out!1 point
-
1 point
-
Get the scaffolders back for a day to clear those bays, hire a 15m telehandler to lift the glass up, and then get the scaffolders to reset. All done in a day.1 point
-
Airtight and vapour tight are not always the same thing. There is also the problem that buildings move over time, and any finish onto masonry will fail in time, so fit the internal VCL, it is only a polythene sheet fitted and taped carefully after all.1 point
-
As you have MVHR fitted (or will have), I really don't know hink that 25mm of insulation on the outside will make a difference. Just fit it between the battens,hard against the wall, it will act like a rain screen. OK the condensation point may move a bit, but probably only a few millimetres, and only in very rare weather circumstances. You want a VCL on the inside, masonry is not immune to moisture (if it was then 'damp walls' would not happen in old houses).1 point
-
It depends on the type of application you are making. If it's an outline application, or it's Permission in Principle, it's based on the site area. If it's a full application, it's the first submission of reserved matters against an outline application, or it's a Technical Details Consent application, then it's per dwellinghouse. In your example, that would be 3 dwellinghouses. https://ecab.planningportal.co.uk/uploads/english_application_fees.pdf1 point
-
T&e is fine if not exposed, i.e straight through the wall into the isolator. Flexible conduit is often a better option from the isolator to the ASHP rather than SWA.1 point
-
You are creating 3 new houses so you pay for 3. Otherwise those people who are knocking down one house to replace with another wouldn’t have to pay a fee.1 point
-
Underpinning is very expensive. Dig 1m of pit, tunnel under footing, bring in or mix 0.5m3 of concrete and fill. Wedge up tight to footing. Repeat.... Could be £500/m so not to be taken lightly.1 point
-
As I said, The parts of Cornwall (Down the Lizard) is Deliverance land.1 point
-
If you already have the PIR on site, then as you say, it’s the condensation risk that’s the key. However…. If you come to sell the PIR you may turn a good profit on FB marketplace, I did when I over ordered and sold off a couple of sheets individually, Joe Public don’t use merchants and are very used to wickes/B&Q pricing I found.1 point
-
It'll take decades to recoup the savings made on the PIR. Save the money and look at where else that investment could be put for greater effect. What's the U rating if the wall? (also roof and floor out of curiosity?)1 point
-
1 point
-
Does your new glass have a bannister or similar above? If not, it’ll be the torque around the fixings at the bottom that is the problem. As others have said, your BC will almost certainly require SE sign-off. The weight of the glass itself probably isn’t the problem.1 point
-
As I was a bit of a trendsetter over a decade ago when I ditched a fixed line and went 'mobile only' like 30% of households are now, and as you can get 5G for £12/month, why is anyone (except if you live like the mountain men in Deliverance) getting a fixed line and all the infrastructure to shift it around the house?1 point
-
Commercial kitchens have better equipment though. I don't have the space for a steam oven, Bain Marie and grill, so hobs for the veg, meat and gravy will have to do. Some people say that saucepan lids stop steam from being a problem, but they don't understand how the reductions increase flavour.1 point
-
As someone who cooks very often and for a large family, downdraft cannot handle it. I know it's been discussed here before and most people barely use their hobs so wouldn't notice, but there is no substitute for a good old fashioned hood. If you've got 5 pans on the go regularly, the ceiling will be a mess without it.1 point
-
They don’t do that. They do that. That doesn’t happen. They work well and you don’t headbutt them when you stir your broth.1 point
-
The air from ours isn’t damp nor does it smell.1 point
-
There’s a previous thread on this subject & Gus gave some v good descriptions of the loading.1 point
-
As mentioned, the foil is only on the external walls, so doesn't interfere with internal Wi-Fi. It does stop the signal from getting outside the house, so plan for an external AP if you want Wi-Fi in the garden. I have two Unifi AP's internally and they give very good coverage across a 465m² footprint. The outside AP extends to 100m with line of sight, and around 40m - 50m with obstacles (outbuildings and hedges)1 point
-
That layer is on the external walls and ceiling so not sure how it would affect Wi-Fi within a building.1 point
-
You also need to make sure the gradient of the slope is within regs.1 point
-
Check with your local regs and BCO. Up here it is a minimum of 1200mm by 1200mm flat in front of the door. One (presumably) 900mm slab would not be enough,1 point
-
Aren't the wall ties pulling the insulation back against the internal leaf? Or can you add more so that they do? If so, and if the insulation board has an interlocking profile and is intended for full fill, then I'd not worry too much, though it's far from ideal. Otherwise, I'd consider foaming the top of the gap using Illbruck FM330 applied with a foam gun - very gently, so that the foam doesn't push the insulation further out of place. It may help to use some blocks to restrain the boards temporarily while the foam hardens. That will more-or-less seal off the lower part of the wall and limit the convection between wall and insulation to below that level. Consider adding additional wall ties if necessary for the rest of the wall - it's most important they they are snug against the inner leaf. At least you have render externally, which is a useful shield against problems of rain penetration.1 point
-
It's only the exhaust duct that you need to worry about. If that drains back towards the MVHR unit, as recommended, then any condensation will exit via the condensation pipe build into the unit. It's also acceptable to have a high point in the duct, so that part drains back to the unit, the rest to the outside. Maybe you can do that - i.e. take the vertical pipe slightly above the exhaust grille, and then angle it slightly down from there.1 point
-
I have class Q and it was passed as structurally sound. But when it came to BC and SE drawings it had to be underpinned. It has stood since the 1950's and is only single storey like yours, so be prepared for this eventuality and how expensive underpinning is.1 point
-
You'd be better off doing a walkover with an experienced builder and even architect and SE. A RICS survey has a set scope and format, and they'll all tell you the same thing. But you won't know really until you start digging and ripping things apart. Just assume worst case and budget accordingly.1 point
-
i had the same situation in my front room with the OG airbrick, and i did like you say and chamfered the end of the insulation. I sealed between the wall and insulation and then sealed between the wall and caberdeck afterwards. I used Illbruck airtight foam which is a quality product, ive used loads in my place to make the floor draft free as i run UFH as well. Illbruck FM3301 point
-
1 point
-
No, it's not OK. I'd apply a couple of coats of liquid DPM for (Aquaseal Hyprufe of similar) for 100mm or so above the slab, thoroughly sealing along the DPC, and along the edge of the slab itself, so that the DPM laps with that. Make sure the joints between blocks are pointed first if they're not already 100% full. This is something to discuss with your Building Control Officer as it's a stage they should be checking.1 point
-
The force of gravity, and therefore time, changes depending on altitude and ground density. All the granite in Cornwall makes it 20 years behind the times.0 points
-
You guys 🤪… Back to the balustrade: It does have a handrail around the top, and this bolts into the wall of the house. The upright posts will be bolted into the Balcony floor with three bolts in each foot. I did have a look at Gus’s comments on the indoor balustrade and its fixings previously, but will go back and have another look. I’ll also speak with the SE about whether she did any calculations for the balcony in the first place (which I can’t see on her drawings) and if not whether we now need to pay her to do that. The building control drawings have a wooden balustrade so we will def need to communicate the change to the BC officer and understand his expectations. Cleaning: probably a very long brush with integral hose (which we will need for some of our first floor windows as well!) photo of the balustrade in its original home below:0 points
-
Nothing like a glass floor for a nice view0 points
-
Beans are in the microwave (get a commercial one, so much better) then into Mary's Bath. Pasties, and sausage rolls are from the freezer, into the oven (always set at 190°C, regardless of what is cooked, except scones) and then into the cabinet. It is all in the preparation for so that the scummy customers and throw their food onto the floor and tread it into the carpet.0 points
-
Generally how well it can be bolted. "Give me the place to stand, and I shall move the earth." Archimedes How are you going to keep the outer pane clean? and stop people like @Pocster standing outside looking up your frock?0 points