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They all do that, after a while of being connected the can is useless.

So back to square one. Realised I am actually putting more electric into the garden room than the house, with direct heating. Garden room direct electric and house via heat pump. So have decided to sacrifice a little CoP and increase flow temp. To make this achievable, the house output needs to be reduced quite a bit, so flow rates have been set with a much bigger dT to compensate. Have programmed a different WC curve into ASHP and will monitor and adjust as required. Tonight we are getting down to zero degrees, so a decent test.

Could make the jig a bit longer, drill two extra holes in it, and the wall to hold it level. Then drill the other holes in the right place. Oh hang on.

I bought a very old Kumatsu 3t 360 on steel tracks for my build. I was looking for anything that was cheap and local and bid a silly low price on this one, then went out and blow me down when i got back I found i had won it. It was old, all the joints were worn and it had a Peugeot car engine bodged in in place of the original. But it worked and did everything I asked it to, and i sold it for exactly what i paid for it.

Yes. He touched on the price of building houses, said that the nice ones cost more then the nasty ones 100 years ago. Used that as justification to build expensive houses, ones that will last 1000 years.

I bought a 3cx fir my build, cheap and luckily didn’t go wrong (much), yes it’s heavy and chews the ground up and we had the room. In addition to that it was the greatest fun to drive and always on site so available at short notice for multiple jobs from unloading pallets with the forks, digging trenches as a crane and I had a fair bit of ground to level. Not sure if it was cost effective re hiring but I loved owning it 😎.

What do you mean by a "backhoe loader" and "Seems like best of mini digger and dumper in one?" Any pictures or examples of what you mean? Or do you mean a simple JCB C3X etc? JCB's are good, but heavy and being wheel drive rather than track will chew up a soft / wet site in no time.

If you live in a nice area of a big city, this could be commercially viable. Elsewhere I suspect cost will far exceed value or benefit. I'm not giving any advice or even thoughts on the best procedure here. It could be very specific to the building and surroundings. You are deliberately undermining a, presumably, perfectly good building, so there is risk. You need an SE from an early stage. Your annual insurance renewal will have a box tick for ' has your house been underpinned'. The insurer will assume there is a continuing risk. But an SE will design a scheme that will be a construction project, not underpinning as such. I hope you have allowed a lot of money for this and are prepared for earth and rubble going out of the hallway.

You may as well traditionally underpin with mass concrete. There's no less risk with this 'side pinning' ( and possibly more) and the reinforcement is a significant complicating factor. Underpinning is not rocket science, but it does require some technical understanding and good procedural control, which is why it is often done badly.

This device lets you monitor the energy used by any appliance and can also be used as an on/off timer https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B831STBX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 (the pack of 2 is currently priced as only £1 more than the single).

At least it's not yellow, yet. Now you've got your printer you can print some decent spacers!

New toy alert !!!!

Hi @flanagaj Most planing applications require a landscaping plan - IE a finished product. To preparing the site to recieve materials etc and to secure it, is not only appropriate but essential and would be considered, in my mind, a temporary measure. So crack on would be my advice.

The rules used to be (may still be, but I may be out of date!) that up to 16A per phase you can do the install/connection and notify them within 24h.

I always drill holes straight 😉

They have been used for submarine propulsion for decades, though they have only been ordered a few at a time and been made in small numbers of any one design so no mass production as such. I think it is perfectly reasonable to think that in the long term making them in factory conditions should be cheaper and much more reliable that trying to weld the full thickness of a containment vessel in the middle of a muddy building site. The current PWR designs really stretch the limits of what can be achieved in terms of fabricating large pressure vessels and this has caused a lot of re-work and cost overruns. No, various methods of cooling the reactor have been proposed including gas, liquid metal, molten salts and water for transferring the heat to the turbines, but they still need cooling water as the ultimate heat sink as the thermal efficiency is ?50% at best so half the reactor output is rejected to the environment. Cooling towers could be used at inland sites, and air cooling is theoretically possible but I have not seen it proposed seriously. Though the original piles at Windscale were built just to produce weapons-grade plutonium so none of the heat was used and all 180MW of it was rejected up the massive 400 ft chimneys, one of which was heavily contaminated after it caught fire in 1957 (I have been up the other one!).

Those sizes look a bit odd. It's generally 4", 5", or 6". Should be a snug fit between sections. Single wall is cheap and throws out a fair bit of heat. But you can't have it within a certain distance of combustibles. Twin wall can be pretty close to combustibles (~2" from memory). Non combustible includes masonry and cement fibre board. It's not rocket science but the rules are there for a reason and the consequences of getting it wrong are pretty bad.

Just for context, I live in a 160m2 4 bed 1960s house that used 850kWh on heating over the entire last year. (20°C internal temperature, deep renovation to PH standard). About 45kWh per week in December & January ISTM swapping to a cheaper rate or using batteries really is just pissing in the wind, your issue is the house is wildly underperforming at keeping heat in.

can you program a slightly higher flow and room temp during the E7 period, to charge the house up? Whilst there's a small efficiency loss running during the lowest ambient temps of the early morning you're still going to gain over running at the day rate. That's what we're doing, and solar gain reduces daytime losses so there's actually very little heating needed during the day and evening

I would split the order I definitely wouldn’t hand over 70k to any company We will order our windows soon and take our custom elsewhere if they are not happy to do this As a business we have more work in than what we need Getting invoices settled is becoming an issue

Its also very important to conform to the rules or section 75 will fail to cover you. I believe the credit card must be in the name of the person placing the order (so not your partners card). It must also be a direct transaction with the company (so might be a problem if ordering a kit from a local representative if they don't work for the company directly). The card must also be used for a deposit on the kit not a seperate design fee or similar. If I've missed anything I'm sure someone will pick me up on it.

There are some but it’s really expensive. I looked into for our timber kit but it was going to cost something like 15% of the value of the thing you’re insuring. I’m using section 75 for everything else but I’ve not come up against it costing me more.

Mike Scotland, have a browse of the flooring forum..... here.... https://theflooringforum.com/forums/vinyl-impervious-floor-coverings.105/

Wait, that means >= 60Hz. So, a big nice thick space with a resonance frequency under 60Hz would be great, no? I have one of that exact same brand, to put over the door. People who have them for sound insulation purposes seem to be often a bit disappointed - and of course they work for sound only when they are drawn! Still, they could add a finishing touch - but I have a William Morris habit.

Sides are plumb, top is level, although I didn't measure the diagonals. I'll take a pic tomorrow, I've banned myself from the room for the rest of the night!

Well it was a gamble but it paid off for me, yes it leaked hydraulic oil and all joints were worn but I got used to it. I think I paid about £6k plus VAT (about 8 years ago) and sold it for £4k after about 4 years work 🤷‍♂️ local engineers supplied parts and mended it when a few things (diesel pump) got clogged. , it’s certainly a man’s toy (tin hat on). Did I mention it turned up the ground? And ours was very wet at times….. (I did get it out)

That grout joint's off btw.

One fun one - amtico reviews are terrible on trustpilot: https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/amtico.com (and karndean - which was suggested to me was inferior - is actually better reviewed but still pretty poor) Maybe I should just go for concrete and be done with it or somesuch. Sigh. But more seriously, we are now gravitating somewhat back to tiles, or tiles(kitchen/bath) and engineered wood (living downstairs). Or should we ignore trustpilot?