Leaderboard

Well I contacted his boss last night who is actually a roofer. And guess what - this morning he walks in and says that his boss says the whole lot has to come off and redone. What a relief. We are going to get building control involved as well to inspect everything they do. Thanks for the advice everyone. They said they are going to use different membrane because it should not have leaked like that. I hope they pick the right one for the metro tiles.

I could be completely wrong ( but unlikely 🤣🤣) if you look in the pic there are flat boards on top of those rafters, these look like valley boards, there is also a timber directly above the split, this looks like a ridge board. I think there is another roof situated resting directly on that purlin. Either it is a little gable type roof sitting on top badly designed, or an additional roof has been added like a small extension. Either way the purlin has been overloaded i think this could be jacked back up, from the opposite purlin or a wall below, then the original purlin could be sandwiched with a couple of steel plates and plenty of bolts, with a couple of better struts going down onto an internal wall. Either get them to fix it or go in £10,000 under on an offer.

I am looking forward to this saga. Any heating system is doomed to failure in this house.

I would prefer the solweld. You can also get around the inside when it is fitted, and run another couple of beads around.

And they are not even the coloured ones that are coloured so that building control can easily see that they are treated. No colour, they are probably not treated and building control could fail the job. It needs ripping off and starting again. Sorry.

Cordless grinders are fantastic, I love my Makita, but for that job you'll be replacing batteries every ~20mins. Get a corded 5". Cordless still worth having and might be useful for awkward bits in and around eaves etc.

Can i get this clear? You had a gas/oil/lpf boiler that was knackered. You had (on some sort of scheme I assume) the chance to have it replaced and have an ASHP installed as well You are complaining that the ASHP installed (a split unit) is noisy inside and vaillant will replace with a monoblock but insist on putting a large buffer unit inside. The stress of the situation is causing you ill health. If you don't intend to use the ASHP, and have a boiler, why not just turn the ASHP off? It'll be super quiet then, no big buffer required, not extra.work? Why put yourself thorough stress to install a thing you don't want to use?

Okay so I think it was added in 70s but what colour is the Armitage Shanks classic.

Not a design criticism, but if you have the HW tank under the stairs, and you are having an unvented tank, you WILL need a drain for the D2 discharge, so you will need to provision a drain under the stairs. That will need thinking about and planning at floor slab laying time. Just pointing out as it may not be immediately obvious you will need a drain and will be a bitch to add later.

That sounds like a lot of different button pressing and confuguring. How do you backup and restore that lot so WHEN a part fails you can program the new part just as it was. If it was ALL contained in a script or a program that you could save and restore, it would be easy. I can see the fun of battling to make something work like that, but would not want to rely on anything I could not simply restore to a working system if one part broke.

brick or render ? small tweak to the master ensuite, doors opening out cant make mspaint do it !

Nothing a bit of self leveller won't fix... To be honest, this is flatter than the kitchen slab and that's got vinyl on it just fine.

in the ground. A full load 8m2. Reckon I could of used another cube just to tidy it off but I emptied the wagon and It's not going anywhere. However, neither am I. My body is broken! 32mm MDPE pipe inside 110mm waste pipe as a duct. Got some 2" twinwall but decided on using waste pipe, so If go digging again one day, the waste pipe will put up more of a fight than black twinwall.

cordless is ok if you have other tools in the range to share the batteries. I have dewalt kit and the 54v battery is more powerfull than the mains, amazing. But a bit pricy if you only have 1 or 2 tools.

If you are reading a post and you have nothing worthwhile to say maybe just don't post anything that will cause something that will obviously rile another member up.

You could - I wouldn't - it's a bodge. GSE panels have correct drainage and ventilation, cable routing and wind load design. They stop the ingress of water, and once you get your head around the install, very simple to install. If the panel flies off in high wind gse get the blame, bodge job you do. PV panel is basically a pane of glass in a frame, if it hits from a roof, leave that to the imagination. The GSE panel is £30, fixing and trim piece cheap also. Or don't integrate, install slates or tiles and roof bars and hooks. Do it properly once.

On the main news today, the Government are proposing to scrap this rule, which in their words would unlock 100K houses stuck in planning at the moment.

G98 done after as you need tests etc done by spark. Got all my gear from ITS, shipping was about £120. GSE panels just go directly on top of the 25mm battens as per the instructions. You need to get the batten positions right. Reccomend getting some 25x100mm battens for this. The screws with the panels are pretty hefty and I found they split the 50mm battens, even with predrilling. I screwed my optimisers on after the roof was done. Think these may have been facing the wrong way and I had to flip them over.

We have found with UFH in the heating season, because the floor isn't sucking so much heat away, the rooms actually feel warm with the thermostat set at 19. But when the UFH cooling is on, even though the room can be 23/24 it actually feels nice and cool.

This is due to the rate of heat loss of the body, even tough the room temp is 21C, the radiating surfaces absorb the heat that leaves your body quicker than when the heating is on. As well when the heating is on, there not much heat flow from your body towards other surfaces. This is the paradox of the "cold" radiators with heat pump, even tough you can keep a stable temp of 21, with radiators at 25C, the 30-35C will feel "warmer" in the same 21C room temp due to the radiating heat transfer(or lack of, from your body to the environment). A metal spoon has the same temp as the wooden spoon, but when you touch them, one absorbs more heat(feels colder)

if purchasing specifically for chasing walls have you considered a double disc jobby? https://www.amazon.co.uk/EINHELL-ITALIA-TH-MA-1300-Mauernutfräse/dp/B00IYEEXR0/ref=asc_df_B00IYEEXR0/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309904160813&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17036672168689129604&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007850&hvtargid=pla-421346012760&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 2 lines in one go is surely better than one?

10mm discs are horrendous to use, much easier to use a standard (much lower cost) disc and do a few passes. Easy to make deeper by scraping a chisel or similar in the groove, if the old mortar doesn’t crumble and come out easily it doesn’t need replacing and better left holding the bricks

“What is a buffer tank for?” https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en/knowledge-articles/do-i-need-buffer-tank/#:~:text=A buffer tank is simply,energy from the heat pump. A buffer tank is simply an insulated vessel that adds additional volume of hot water to your heating system, i.e. the water that goes around the radiators and is treated with chemicals to stop rust. It acts a little like a battery for the heating system, allowing it to store more of the energy from the heat pump. Do I need an expansion tank and a buffer tank? An expansion tank allows for the expansion and contraction of a system when it heats up and cools off and provides head pressure for the circulation pump. A buffer tank adds volume to a heating or cooling system and helps prevent the internet can answer nearly all your questions zoot!

+1 on the above, I love my cordless tools but angle grinder just doesn’t have the humff or battery life for anything other than little quick jobs, plus battery grinders stop fast and heavy discs can (do) spin themselves off and disappear into the sunset at the most inconvenient times

More like 2mm thick. Lidl have some cordless angle grinders. I would go corded, a small one.

Tell them if they put it in the loft you will insulate at rafter level. You could always just put a box of insulation over it instead.

If you flowing at temperature that cause manifold condensation you are flowing at temps that will cause floor condensation - which is something you need to avoid. A PIR box is easy to do. Even easier if you have no pump mixer or zone valves. As no reliability issues to consider by boxing in and trapping heat.

Use DeWalt aircrete fixing, easy cheap and fix really well.

If they insist on a buffer, then can it not go where the old inside unit is? On the understanding it will be SILENT and of not they WILL make it silent.

chalkline the battens to make sure they are dead straight or it will look pants. Measure to top and use a gauge that doesn't leave small cut for top row of tile. Set out eaves row so there isnt a small cut either end and follow the bond up. Use a level to make sure you don't drift with the bond again looks pants. Chalkline the verge as well vertically as you will find with clay not all tiles are the same size you need this to be good in order not to look pants. Use a valley tile if you can instead of a tray, have plenty of tile and halfs ready for the cuts. Loading out doesn't really matter if there is a couple of you to pass and lay.

As I never finished this thread properly , I thought I would say much of the problems I had are gone . The plumber /electrician I eventually found knew what he was doing and found all the wiring wrongly set up. Basically the system was not independently running between the two sys ie. DHW AND HEATING . So all last year through the summer , heating side was using cold and vice versa! Bills are a lot less , thankfully.

Mate, if a customer came to me with that as a site to design you a new house I’d be kissing the ground you walked on. They have really done you a solid there, that’s massive and ugly so you’re probably going to get something great there. I wouldn’t see any issues for you even not knowing the area to be honest. By looking at that circulation, you could improve your layout and get massive rooms. I wouldn’t bother with a pre-app. Just go in with a nice contemporary design on that footprint (you could maybe move the gable to the middle if you like). Full planning, go for it.

We popped an old pillow into a bin bag and shoved that up one of ours. Seems to have done the trick so far until I get around to sorting it out properly.

Arch #1 sounds the obvious choice to me? She designs the look of it, you support her with PH tailoring with a bit of help from the 'hub

Get a roofer with an account to price them for you, will be cheaper than that.

If it is Coldplay, end track.

I have a selection of angle grinders, one small cordless, a small one, a medium one with speed control and a very large one. The big boy scares the hell out of me when slicing concrete slabs up. The little one, 700 W, is very easy to use as it can be locked on, means one handed usage. But don't try using one up a ladder, when a cutting disc grabs, there is a lot of inertia in the disk, and even 700W is like pushing 700 kg a metre, in one second. So if you weigh 100 kg, you will have moved over a metre before you even have time to realise what has happened.

If the fibre is not there yet, don't do your final surfacing until it IS there and working. 20 years ago a new house up the road from us had just moved in and were somewhat peeved when SSE came along to dig a trench down the road and across their entrance for a new supply to 2 new houses down the road (one of those being our first self build)

Thanks for the replies. Yes we are having metal tiles - Metro tiles - I will get building control to come see it. Best way to deal with it. Yes we are shocked at the work. The walls are wonky too. I could cry - this is our all our life's savings going into this.