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I did this, but the run suffers from gurgling as the two 90⁰ bends cause a bit of surcharging. I'd reccomend using 45⁰s instead, with about 200mm between them to keep the water flowing smoothly.

We used Cabershield with their recommended glue and protected all the exposed edges - with the same glue, think we went a little beyond 42 days in places with no ill effects although to be fair we covered it in DPC plastic to keep the worst of the weather off.

That sounds fine to me With 1500-2000 you should be able to get contractors in for the shell and Groundwork’s If you intend to do most of the fit out yourself I’ve 350k with 50k contingency to build 410m2 Labour is the key and shopping around for good quality materials Which is a lot easier than six months ago

Real life black panels (310W), GSE integrated with slates.

probably doesn't. but it makes me chuckle to try and wind you up. sorry.

Magnetic contact/reed switch on the toilet seat?

Get a hose adapter for the water supply and two big propane tanks and most importantly a reminder in your calendar to empty the toilet cassette! I tried to use the site portaloo as much as possible.

Doesn’t look like it would cause any problems, do use 50mm pipe, much better to have an air break in the pipe.

I don’t see why that door is against regs (unless someone can quote them), however I would hang it the other way so if it was open and you rushed to go down the stairs (fire alarm) it will get pushed closed rather than block the top of the stairs. (Fire scape doors open outwards).🤷‍♂️

Never heard of that before!!!, well a tourer is not a static and you have to have facilities for your builder (you) so crack on.

That's exactly what we did. Hid it best we could from 5h3 road so wouldn't get complaints. Loved it. During the build I was working a flexible 3 day week and it worked out great for a small office space. Being able to cook and heat food was a great money saver.

The door blocks access and fire escape. A sliding or folding (inside) door might be allowed. Or locate the door in the bedroom.

careful nothing falls into that open manhole, it'd be a b*gger to get back out again as you can't climb in without removing all the airlift gubbins that's bolted in...

drill it through but have one of these? https://www.celticwater.co.uk/leaf-catcher-downpipe-leaf-trap/ or https://www.celticwater.co.uk/leaf-separator-compact/

Today, I will cut a channel through the field to lay 70m of 32mm mdpe in ducting. Made the decision that we'll fill the channel and surround the ducting with 2-3ft of 2" clean stone to act as a drain, we've done this at the back of the house and round the other side of the riding school and it works well to drain the surface water. You can see on the photos that we are blue/grey clay under the top 3ft or so of sandy/gravel and is really slow draining after prolonged wetness!

This retaining wall at Porthleven has had some 'tell tales' on it for years. You can just seem them. One just to the left of the telegraph post and the other a few metres to the right. The harbour wall usually takes the brunt of the storm waves, but there will be a lot of water that filters down the higher wall. The storm below took out a number of the stone blocks on the harbour wall and then moved them down the road about 20 metres.

Why would fitting roof hooks reduce the lap? The realtively few ones I've seen and done are notched to get the tile to sit neatly over the hook but theres no reduction in lap??

Tyvek Dupont AirGuard Single... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07VP4H2Z1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I have these, very impressed with quality and price. Work perfectly, especially with dogs going through. Yotache Fly Screen Door 158 x 206 cm, Reinforced Polyester Double Door Screen Curtain for Sliding Door French Door Keep Fly Bug Out, Black https://amzn.eu/d/36DUU36

Yes it is. I have got into assessing roofs for PV in terms of making sure that they are still safe SE wise.. I ask questions.. Big learning curve and yes it is like the wild west. The problem I have is that once I explain what needs to be done to make the roof safe and water tight then a lot of the honest PV folk can't compete as it is a race to the bottom. Some roofs are fine and can take the extra loading. Many old roofs are already over stressed when compared with modern design codes but sometimes you can still make things work with a bit of pragmatism. My problem is that a lot of PV installers have no clue about what they are doing. Well a lot do and they don't give a jobby... it's a case of what can we get away with. Never mind the SE side.. lots of PV installers will notch the tiles to get their brackets in. If you go back to Marley tiles who stand by their 50 year warranty on their tiles and ask them .. is it ok to cut notches in your tiles and reduce the lap.. they will tell you.. (expletive deleted!) no. If they could reduce the lap they would have done so decades ago as the market is so competetive. If any PV supplier can't answer these basic questions that could compromise your house then why on earth would you part with several thousands of pounds to get a bit back on you leccy bill? For me know knowing a bit more about the PV market.. under the bonnet... oh dear! Hopefully things will pick up in terms of transparency ect.

Post a photo so we can see what is what. Folk will then chip in with suggestions.

I've had some egger board offcuts outside covering other wood for 2 years or more no issue and that's without the covering film.

Well that is a positive start and there is loads of great info in this thread. This sort of thing can cause concern but if you gather the facts the problem / concern can go away. I'll put my own slant on this so here goes. The legislation in Scotland works on the basis that the polluter pays.. last time I looked the same principles apply in the rest of the UK. Thus it is OK in some cases to have a septic tank..(they are not illegal in Scotland and certainly existing septic tanks in the rest of the UK) a big brick tank or glass fibre type bottle sunk in the ground. In Scotland when we want sell a house we need to register the tank.. it can be any tank.. spetic or a tank that treats the water to some degree often called a package treatment plant. In a septic tank the soil water from the house goes into this and settles out, heavy sediment on the bottom and fats on the top. There is an outlet that is designed to sit below the fat layer and this cleaner water goes into a soak away. Now you can see that the only "treatment" that occurs in a septic tank is a process of separating the fats and heavy material.. there is some Anaerobic digestion that takes place but ignore that for now. A septic tank is designed to make sure the water exiting from it does not block a soakaway, the biological oxygen demand, the ammonia content and potential "pathogen" content is not a consideration as this water soaks away safely into the ground. The main consideration is that the soakaway is far enough away from a water course or potable aquifer so as not to pollute and designed well enough so that the water going into a soakaway does not appear somewhere else.. often occurs if you are on a hill. If was buying a house with a shared septic tank I would concentrate on the practical side then look at the legal: 1/ Where is the tank and what type is it? A septic tank, a packaged treatment plant... there are a few different kinds, the modern ones tend to need less maintenance = cost. Water flows down hill so if the tank is in someone else's garden then they will suffer first! Sounds awfull but if sewage is bubbling up in your garden and the neighbours are not playing ball then you can face an uphill struggle.. causes friction. 2/ Next.. a really important is to know about the soakaway. Where is it and how much space is there round about it. Sometimes you find that the soakaway is not within the curtilage of the dwellings that use it.. say in a farmer's field. Now often there is provision in the deeds that allow you to access the field for maintence of the soak away.. but once they get blocked.. which they do eventually then you often need to shift them a bit as the pores in the soil get filled up.. will the farmer let you do this? If the houses have big gardens and the soakaway is within the cutilage of the dwellings that use it then you have scope to relocate the soakaway to some extent. But again where is the soakaway.. in your garden or elsewhere. Who gets their garden dug up? Now it may be that you don't have a septic tank that discharges to a soakaway, rather you may have a treatment plant that treats the water like the public sewage works and discharges to a water course. This is different but not a problem once you know enough about it. In the round if you love the house then start having a look at the practical side first .. then check the legal stuff.. cheeper to use you own common sense before paying legal fees.

Extracts from BS EN 12056 - 2:2000 For a WC the pipe diameter hinges on the outlet size.. which kind of makes sense..

Well @flanagaj Are you sitting comfortably? Then I'll begin. Briefly: Here Be Dragons. When the soft and Smelly hits the rotating blade it gets everywhere. Not so Briefly 4 Lancastrian 'chocolate box cottages ' all in a row, everyone pooping down the same septic hole, sun shining, blackbirds singing: everything was lovely. One lovely old lady on her own, one young family of three, one codger and his floozy, and us four. All was sweetness, and light. Lovely old lady dies. Son moves in. Throws his weight around, brings his nasty terriers in - 24 hour barkers (working dogs you see ). Also brings his rifle in and starts shooting. (6 months later the Police rescind his license) We apply for PP, and within a week, the neighbour comes and nails our back gate shut. We have access rights across his garden. Why? He didn't like the fact that we suggested we would discharge to a local stream and avoid adding to the septic tank....... He thought he could object to our build most effectively by saying the septic tank couldn't take any more 'volume' 8 years later he struggles to say a civil word to me. So the answer to your question is: it depends on people: there neither is nor can be one clear-cut answer. People change, move away, die, have opinions and are generally inconvenient. Best o' Luck fella. Best o' Luck.

>>> Tea, medals. Nice idea re the medals - you have campaign ribbons and all? I just finished 70 m^2 of ecogrid 30 for pedestrian use. Fairly pleased although it's not cheap. The company that sells it was dodgy over delivery though. Paid for 'next day' and it turned up on day 3/4 (I forget). Asked them to sort less than 7.5T truck as we live on a narrow lane. Arrived in a van after the truck decided he couldn't be bothered (we get 7.5s regularly). Had to unload an entire van full by hand rather than with a hiab. A kind of couldn't-be-ar5ed attitude.

Agreed. The PLX looks stunning to me on our roof. Very little oil canning.

Same. Zinc is lovely, really tactile if you ever stick your hand out of a rooflight but from ground level there's no discernible difference. Save your dough.

If you’re placing it in proper ducting (like the Naylor electrical ducting) then you can get away with using internal ethernet cable. In every other case I’d use exterior grade cable especially if it’s exposed at any point. I’d probably still use exterior grade even if it’s ducted though.

Exactly that - we have used 20mm granite chippings on compacted type 1 and haven't had a problem since it went down some 4 years ago. A couple photos to help.

Correct, MCS (the scheme) does not and has never had any restrictions on cooling, it was RHI that had that constraint but it was lifted several years before RHI was withdrawn completely. OTOH finding an MCS installer familiar and competent with installing a system for cooling can be tricky. My experience was I had to oversee most of the cooling aspects myself: - ensuring all pipes and equipment properly insulated against condensation (and put right when they got it wrong) - purchasing and planning ducting for the FCU install - specifying a buffer tank sized for the FCU rather than assume UFH is always in use - insisting on an electronic rather than thermostatic mixing valve for the UFH circuit Installers don't do this often, and I don't know if MCS sets any standards related to it, hence the lack of experience in many installers

Loxone?

Thought your showers ran all the time, your pipes will never be cold

It states it at the bottom of the PP from the council. Seems it’s a standard thing now (maybe just our county?).