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It should connect to that blanked off bit far left of your photo, can’t find just that bit but you could use one of these and use the pipe connector only https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-v33s-compression-domestic-appliance-tee-piece-connector-white-40mm/4167P?kpid=4167P&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl92XBhC7ARIsAHLl9al99MvEDW8bzYH3Ye4NlsghvxCE5GiVuPeNu8SlTZipC1bzINR2gDAaAv7EEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

You're probably going to have to actually work out the cost to bring it back into use and show that would be more than its worth when completed.

YY = flex which is used for power and control. The Eland cables link raises specific concerns about the metallic braid on CY and SY but nothing specific about YY. Heres a link to Lapps YY offering which specifically states used for power https://lapplimited.lappgroup.com/products/yy-cable.html YY/flex is unarmoured double insulated which is exactly the same protection as twin and earth. I think its fair to assume the spark that did the OPs install is comfortable using YY/flex and as its a new build will have almost certainly been signed off by a qualified spark.........you would assume!!

Battery powered heated jacket and a fire pit for the ambience. I’m going to build something like as a wind break at the bottom of our plot

I use a 72kW one at work for a big building.. I have similar style house, currently has has has Gas CH, wood stoves and solar panels. all helps, but the most important part was insulation. as I redid rooms i stripped the lath and plaster and popped in 100mm kingspan, put ROCKWOOL slabs under the suspended timber floor and between some ground floor/first floor ceiling voids to top up the Victorian deafening. i enjoy modernising the house

Loads of M10 nut caps, in the black PETG. The standard, bought ones weren't deep enough for the longer, stainless coach bolts: Before: After:

You'll have to take the roof off, doors, windows etc and no kitchen. We had quite a battle to convince ANDBC that our house was detalict, but ended up just having to wait until we started demolishing it.

For comparing electrical consumer products try: - https://www.sust-it.net/energy-saving/fridge-freezers&ds=0&cf=0&cl=1&ss=0&sort=0 You can search by annual running cost; total cost of ownership; purchase price For some reason your (IKBP3560) doesn't get a mention, but you might find the site useful if you don't already use it.

There is a myth, oft perpetuated that an ASHP requires a well-insulated house. ASHP are not magically different from boilers, stoves and other forms of heating so the only circumstance where an ASHP would not be suitable is if its heat output could not match the requirements of the house. You can easily get ASHPs with up to 18 kW of heat output; I don't doubt there are bigger ones for the commercial market. And if the heat requirements of your house are large then it will be expensive to heat whatever form of heating you choose.

You can extend or get longer hoses but not worth the faff, left hand side horizontal will work just fine 👍

I’m not in NI so don’t know but if it helps: I had an old cottage that we had pp for demo and rebuild. It was uninhabitable but still liable for council tax, in fact because it had been vacant we were about to be hit with a 200% rate. Previous empty house discounts had been exhausted. The building warrant for the new house was going to take a while so I applied for a separate warrant for the demo of the cottage. The demo warrant came through quickly. Our building control dept advised us to do it this way. I stripped the internals and as soon as the demo warrant came through, I took the roof was off & I was able to send photos in to get the property removed from the council tax list, so not liable for tax moving forward. However as you are about to imminently knock down your house anyway I do wonder whether there are any actual £ benefits -v- costs/time of removing the roof earlier, even if this would meet the criteria in NI. I’m wondering why you didn’t demo the house earlier to exempt it from rates/council tax as assuming you’ve had the pp in place for a while.

Stick it on the one on the left. Horizontal inlet to the drain is fine.

Ah ok, I actually thought it had to flow in vertically but if it can work horizontally then I should be able to add the fixture there. it would work on the far right side but the existing hose won’t reach that far - I imagine that there’s a possibility to extend the hose? Really appreciate your help @joe90

I cant get to the centre top one, at all. But if I silicone my 5mm gap between cill & ledger, before the deck boards go on.. I should be ok just. The rest half I can only get a finger to, on the tricky side as it were. 1 inch mask tale for reference.

Likely have to be a bloody big nozzle, it's spaced up to 50mm off the wall! The whole idea was to promote air flow around the back.

Big bead of sealer across the top and down the ledger ends, don’t seal the bottom.

Nah, you always stick a skinny 6 / 8mm drill bit through before coring out, through the repairable cement ( pointing ) to see if the lintel fitted was oversized. Some lintels are ‘too big’ because that was the one that was available on the day of purchase. Always mark the hole out but then, first, drill a test hole the side nearest the opening to ascertain that you’ll defo miss the end of the lintel. 2nd year apprentice stuff tbh.

Two old metal filing cupboards left wedged into roof space by previous owner dragged out and turned into sturdy log store clad with a bit of left over featheredge and roof offcuts from temporary cat run when we moved in. South facing and working a treat in the sunshine....

At least put a cheap Climaflex 13mm wall pipe insulation on first, and then fill the void with mineral wool to compliment. That stuff is cheaper than shoplifting and will be far better that just attempting to manage the losses by stuffing loose wool around.... Seal up where the pipes start / finish ( each end of the boxing-in ) to stave off any convection ( heated air ) flow. Do you have PV, so as to reduce the amount of summer boiler heating of the cylinder?

Yes, and the cocks fitted that on the internal wall........presumably after coring out and realising there was a Catnic in the way! The round hole in the outside skin of brickwork is where the 100mm through-wall vent duct and plastic grille were then fitted ( doing the square root of SFA ) to hide the fcuk up. They clearly knew they'd dropped a bollock as there are some small holes drilled so they could get a whiff of air through, plus what looks like a failed ( or more likely abandoned ) attempt to drill a 50mm hole with a bi-metal holesaw. Probably limited to the number of tools they could fit in the saddle-bag

Complete amateurs, or just careless tossers. Either way, a terrible job. The walls should have been dubbed out and dragged straight before even considering applying the render, or it could have been an excellent candidate for external wall insulation which could have been applied and shaved nice and flat. On a scale of 1-10, that jobs a 2 or 3 at a push. If they said to you, before starting, "the walls are wonky so the finish will be poor" then that's a different story?

Also, you cannot always cut out plasterboard. It could serve as fireproofing or soundproofing.

Protects the flow temperature and also allows better control. And the ASHP company should have fitted one - they just like to tell everyone that they aren’t needed with ASHP.. bit like being told you don’t need a circulation pump as the ASHP can do it… both a myth !!

If the batteries are AC coupled then they have the potential to feed into the grid in addition to the 6kw PV you have approval to export. If your batteries can push out 5kw and your PV push out 6kw then your DNO will want to assess you potential export as 11kw.

Correct term is plunge saw … What are you cutting with it and what length are you looking for..? Keep an eye on Facebook market place as decent 110v makita ones come up for £100-150. Evolution are rubbish, Rutland not much better. If you have a decent circular saw then the Kreg kit is nice and not expensive. https://ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Kreg-Kma2700-647096807177-50In-Accu-Cut-Circular-Saw-Track-Guide

I core drilled mine from the inside till the pilot drill penetrated the outside, then using the pilot hole finished from the outside which stops brick bits flaking off. (We did still have scaff up tho). Just sealed inside where the airtightness barrier should be.

sorry, btw welome!

First house we decided to build as we reckoned we could build something twice the size of anything we could buy for the same money, most things went well with it but it did give an understanding of what could go wrong, mostly with tradesmen, never ever wished we hadn’t done it. second house had many problems, again mostly with tradesmen but also with money, we built a far bigger house than we could really afford and at times thought we’d never afford to finish it but we did after using every penny we could get a hold of. this house was supposed to be perfect as we thought we’d experienced everything we possibly could, unfortunately not and we faced lots of challenges with things we’d never given a thought to but we worked through them all and gained a whole lot more experience. would never wish we hadn’t built any of them, the original £40k we spent in 1992 has now got us into a house worth at least ten times that which wouldn’t have happened if we’d bought an off the peg house way back then for the same amount of money. I have loved everything I have learned in the last 30 years and would start another tomorrow if the right plot came up!

Blow up sumo suit. Then the air trapped in the suit would keep you insulated from the cold air outside the suit. You would look like a right cock but......just saying

China Export. CE is a self certificate scheme, if I remember correctly.

Doing things in the right order is not a strong point for this plumber. Ceiling & walls skimmed & painted already. Probably open a can of worms if we demand everything be reopened & done right. Financial risks. Therefore the compromise of boxing.

The house next to us, the owner / builder realised on the morning BC was coming for final inspection, that he had not fitted an extractor in the utility room. So he quickly cut a hole in the plasterboard and fitted a fan. It is not wired and not connected to outside. BC did not notice and it has been like that for 19 years through 2 changes of owner and still doing nothing.

Is that Russian then?☠️